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Hi All

I know this question has probably been asked a number of time previously, but a lot of threads seem to be fairly old now.

I have a 1971 GT Junior which to my knowledge has not been previously restored, but has had a few repairs and bits of paint here and there over the years. The sound deadening and undercoat in the cabin and under the car appears to be pretty old and brittle, and there are a few areas on the car that could probably use some attention. As a result I am exploring the option of having a full, bare metal respray done to the car with modern underseal and sound deadening.

I intend to strip the car to a rolling shell (ie. with suspension still in place), but will enlist a bodyshop to do any repairs and the paintwork. I know it's hard to tell how much these things will cost without first stripping the car/paint, but once you do that, you're kind of committed; so I would like to understand how much this is likely to cost. I want the car to be solid, but I am not aiming for a concours paint job as I intend to use the car, including the odd track day.

What is the likelihood of getting this work done for £10k? £15k?

I look forward to hearing from you all. I know it's somewhat of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but want to get a sense of cost before pulling the trigger.

Thanks in advance
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Wow, your car looks clean and well set-up. Would help to asses with more pics. If it's going to be a driver, maybe spend the money on other driving things? I think 15k in euros would be on the high side (at least here in the States) and would probably cover a lot of hidden problems, 15k also buys you a lot of engine/suspension mods. If you car looks as good as it does in the pics, you could probably sell it for great money and buy an abject rust-bucket and start there. Might even minimize financial ruin in the scheme of things if you are helping much with the process.

I've read so many stories about needing to strip these cars down to bare metal in order to find all of the lurking landmines, so I personally would be budgeting on the high-side. You almost have to go all the way, since anything less would be a waste of money vs. the post-repaired value of the vehicle. Body ailments precipitously destroy value.
 

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Hard to tell by two 10 foot photos and no close up shots. Looks fine in those photos. Close up photos would be better to get you better comments. How bad is the rust? Any rot?
If your using it for the odd track day and drives, leave it as is, keep it mechanically A1 and just drive it!
 

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Your car has had sill/rocker work as it has lost the vertical seams. Never fear, not the end of the world. Just budget on the lower corners of the guards and the outer sill/rockers being replaced/repaired, as it would seem like a good time to fix that area if you are going to commence on a bare metal respray.

Otherwise your car looks like a nice survivor
Pete
 

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As others have said, impossible to tell without knowing about hidden rust and previous work not done to your standards. I was in the exact same spot several years ago and after having sorted most mechanical and electrical to the "driver" standard I was looking for I started looking at the body.

I spent 2 years of weekends forming and welding in pieces (nose, window sills) and then gave it to a shop to finish (trunk floor and back panel and Swiss cheese around the windscreen). All as a roller.

Cost with me stripping all but the engine bay and suspension, them welding as noted above, and then them blasting and a good paint job (color change back to original), was $22k in USD. Took them 15 months I think. Plus another $500 in broken or lost parts.

Choose your shop carefully and then shepard the project along closely. Hope this is helpful!


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It's a difficult thing to assess, because without knowing what lurks beneath you don't really know what you're dealing with. The problem with old cars is they can look great, but hide serious nasties.

If it's never had a resto, there is almost certainly some rust lurking. Around the windows especially as the stainless trim is great at hiding rust there. And if it's had paint repairs then it's had body repairs, and who knows if it was repaired properly of filled with bog.

Stripping it back for paint is a big job, but if you can do it then you'll save thousands. The difficult decision is how far to go. If you strip it to a rolling shell, and do a bare metal resto of the main body (without underside) you can never be sure you've sorted all issues. But to do the entire shell means stripping it of everything, blasting or dipping the whole car, putting it on a chassis dolly, and that's some big coin.

I think it's safe to start from the position of worst case scenario (and cost), maybe 20k GBP, and then see how far below that you come in. If you do the body to 100% you'll add value, if you only do it to 90% you won't.

Though I think the good news is that if you do it properly you'll get your money back, considering how values have risen. 5 years ago you wouldn't have.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
All, thanks for your replies and advice. I appreciate it's hard to tell, and can open a can of worms. A few more pics which might be of interest. Excuse the slight misting of mud. Doors are fibreglass and not the best shut lines being critical.

Drivers side (RHD car)

Rear Screen
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Passenger Side

Front arch/sill
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Along sill
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Rear Arch area
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Rear Screen passenger side
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Discussion Starter #8
Also some more pics I thought might be of interest..

Engine bay for interest more than anything. It's currently a built 1300cc with race cams etc.

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I have this sitting on an engine stand to potentially go in at some point (after a rebuild).

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It is really difficult to say, I had a low cost, moderate quality repaint done on an old XJ6 last year with virtually no bodywork required and a few new trim bits, it cost £4.5k. For a decent paint job you'd want to spend more than that. I think you'd struggle to spend much less in the UK.

But the big variable is bodywork resto costs and I guess (assuming basic structure is not actively dangerous or illegal) you have the option of what one car guy I know refers to as ' A 3 year restoration or a 25 year restoration'

A 3 year restoration would be what many of us called restoration 20 or 30 years ago - strip the car body, fill the small holes, weld plates on any big holes, grind off surface rust, apply more filler and then slap a coat of paint on. The car will look pretty good but after a few years the corrosion will start to come back. You could probably achieve this in your budget.

For a 25 year restoration, looking at those sill repairs where the original panel join has been filled over, that's not generally a good sign, though jacking points are there which is a good sign. If sills need doing they are around £3k each side with UK labour (maybe a bit less if being done same time as the rest of the car is painted). The lower front wings are often a fail point, repair panels are available. The door tops and bottoms similar, plus the rear windscreen surround but it all mounts up and there's a lot of labour to fit this stuff. Your panel gaps look good from the pics.

I ended up spending nearly twice your budget on mine though I started with same budget. I think it was worse than yours in several places. That didn't include sills which had been previously done. With hindsight it was value for money (though it really hurt at the time).
 

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As others have said, impossible to tell without knowing about hidden rust and previous work not done to your standards. I was in the exact same spot several years ago and after having sorted most mechanical and electrical to the "driver" standard I was looking for I started looking at the body.

I spent 2 years of weekends forming and welding in pieces (nose, window sills) and then gave it to a shop to finish (trunk floor and back panel and Swiss cheese around the windscreen). All as a roller.

Cost with me stripping all but the engine bay and suspension, them welding as noted above, and then them blasting and a good paint job (color change back to original), was $22k in USD. Took them 15 months I think. Plus another $500 in broken or lost parts.

Choose your shop carefully and then shepard the project along closely. Hope this is helpful!


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Hi, Edgewood121 is right ,once you start stripping the car it will be on return, I did one three years ago ,and what I thought was a not bad car revealed its self after sand blasting, you only have to look at "Car SOS" on UK tv to see what happens after striping the paint, I was lucky to have my own body shop ,but then it was a lot of work, but when finished , you will be glad. It looks like you are going to need all the usual panels, ie: all the lower half ,but all this is available , from most suppliers ,I used Classic Alfa ,who were very helpful , but ask people in your area for recommendation of local shops , the more you do the lower the cost will be. what mine looked like before and after the blasting. Good luck hope it goes well. Chris
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I suggest a little self-education. The more you know about how Alfas are restored the better off you'll be. I suggest you look at Daron's extensive videos---they go back years and every one I've watched has taught me something new.

 

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Woah, the PO has likely just had a heart attack. But hope not!

But yes we do have to remember that in the say the 1980's these cars were just strange old cars that were not worth a great deal. Heck I bought mine in 1986 (I think) for $4000 (and even then I probably paid $2000 too much because I was young and stupid).

The point being back then, shoddy repairs were all that these cars were going to get. But we need to be thankful to those repairers as otherwise these cars would have been recycled by now
Pete
 

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Hi All

I know this question has probably been asked a number of time previously, but a lot of threads seem to be fairly old now.

I have a 1971 GT Junior which to my knowledge has not been previously restored, but has had a few repairs and bits of paint here and there over the years. The sound deadening and undercoat in the cabin and under the car appears to be pretty old and brittle, and there are a few areas on the car that could probably use some attention. As a result I am exploring the option of having a full, bare metal respray done to the car with modern underseal and sound deadening.

I intend to strip the car to a rolling shell (ie. with suspension still in place), but will enlist a bodyshop to do any repairs and the paintwork. I know it's hard to tell how much these things will cost without first stripping the car/paint, but once you do that, you're kind of committed; so I would like to understand how much this is likely to cost. I want the car to be solid, but I am not aiming for a concours paint job as I intend to use the car, including the odd track day.

What is the likelihood of getting this work done for £10k? £15k?

I look forward to hearing from you all. I know it's somewhat of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but want to get a sense of cost before pulling the trigger.

Thanks in advance View attachment 1673470 View attachment 1673471
To reply to your original questions.
Absolutely zero chance it will be under 15k sterling. Your stated goal of going bare metal for the whole chassis after your up close pictures is going to be more like 40k pounds, especially for a complete solid chassis. Which at that point why bother going for drivers quality, the difference up to very or extremely nice will be negligible.
At this point with this car I would just drive the snot out of it for the next 5-10 years while I saved up and looked around for a shop that is passionate about your exact car.
Unless of course your pocket change is way more plentiful than mine, in that case turn it into whatever your dream is.
 
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