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Discussion Starter #1
Just want to share a few tidbits in the hope that they might help someone else...

My Spider had a noticeable growl above 70 mph, coming from the driveline. This after bushings, u-joints, carrier and rear wheel bearings had been replaced. I intended to replace the motor mounts in the next couple of months but in the meantime wanted to enjoy some nice fall driving.

Then, on a beautiful sunny afternoon about two weeks ago, one of the u-joints disintegrated during a high speed run.

I knew the motor mounts were due for replacement, which I just finished this evening. I was surprised, though, when the metal frame atop the seemingly intact driver's side mount came out in three pieces. I was also surprised to find that the motor sits a full inch higher after the job.

I won't know if all of my issues are solved until I get the new u-joint in this weekend, but want to share a few indications that your motor mounts are due for replacement:

- The transmission habitually pops out of reverse unless you hold the shifter in position

- You have a growling vibration from the transmission tunnel at freeway speeds. May occur over a narrow range of speeds.

- Your oil pan sits less than three-quarters to one full inch above an undamaged pan guard.
 

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The exhaust side motormount in my experience is more often broken (often into several pieces) than not. Lots of causes of driveline vibration in 750-115 Alfas; I would call it the single most common trouble spot on these cars. Plenty of threads on it here.

Andrew
 

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The heat off the manifold itself just inches away doesn't help things much either.
I like the Spurell aluminum motor mounts myself.

Parts

After replacing the engine mounts check the nuts after 500 miles to make sure they are all still tight. This is as much to check the mechanic's work as it is for piece of mind.

I found a missing nut and several loose ones after my mounts were change.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IAfter replacing the engine mounts check the nuts after 500 miles to make sure they are all still tight. This is as much to check the mechanic's work as it is for piece of mind.
Thanks for the tip. I am the mechanic and know from experience how suspect that guy's work can be.
 

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I've seen the metal shrouded mounts and can't help but wonder if it makes the mounts last longer because of the buckets ending up acting as a sort of heat shield rather than any sort of support. (they do look like a real loose fit on the rubber, so I'm guessing it's not making longevity through restriction of mount flex/movement/deflection)

I gotta change mounts come spring anyway, and replace a sheared mount stud in the block (yay) so will take that time to see about some creative tin and heat tape tinkering to see if I can't get less heat exposure to the thing.
 
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