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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Alfisti,

I am curious to know if there is a way to wire my headlights so that they will turn-off when I turn-off my ignition. I forgotten a few times and drained the battery.

Thanks!

Ross
 

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There probably is a way to wire that up. But I think this is done for saftey reasons. ex. If you're engine/alternator/ignition were to go out at night, then you're lights woud be gone, could create a accident.

I think the majoirty of car's are like that.
 

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I'm actually investigating the possibility of putting a buzzard that will go on if the key is off but the light is on (just like those on newer cars)
I'm looking at Jim (papajam) wiring diagram right now too see if it can be done.

WOrking
working

working...

Sniady said:
There probably is a way to wire that up. But I think this is done for saftey reasons. ex. If you're engine/alternator/ignition were to go out at night, then you're lights woud be gone, could create a accident.

I think the majoirty of car's are like that.
 

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If you run the lights through the ignition, you’ll be adding around 15 amps to that circuit. If you have extra lights or high power lights, it will be more. I suspect the switch isn’t designed for this much current. Certainly the old ones with the paddle-shaped, vs. the box-shaped, stock weren’t. If you insist on doing this, I’d suggest using an appropriate relay activated by the ignition and use the existing lighting circuits and fuses to route the power. Sometimes people do this (minus the ignition link) with the older light switches because they seem to a bit marginally designed for the job. I think there was an article in the Alfa Owner sometime in the past few years on just how to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone for your replies. I agree, it did occure to me that this was built-into the car for safety,etc. And, to the other, more technical replies, that stuff is way too much work for me. I'll remember to turn 'em off javascript:smilie(':)')

Cheers!

Ross
 

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I believe that not having the headlights wired through the ignition switch might be a U.S. requirement. Every car I have rented in Italy (one Fiat and five Alfas) had them wired through the ignition switch, as is the case for my Euro-spec Giulietta Sprint. In contrast, my U.S.-spec Giulietta and 1750 Spiders are not wired through the ignition switch.
 

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Sniady and rcess bring up a good point about safety and possible US regulations stating that headlights not be triggered by the ignition switch. While it may be a US reg today, it wasn't from at least '71 thru '84. The three early '70s US spec Bavarias and an '84 Subaru I owned had ignition triggered headlights (the 'Brews parking lights stayed on though - a lot of good THAT did to save the battery!).
To wire your car for triggered headlights, all you need is a Bosch or Hella 15A relay or equivelent. The fusebox in the diagram is a '69 - '74 US spec 105/115 series. Here's what to do;

Wire #1. Remove the red 12ga wire (that feeds the headlight switch) from the top of fuse #3 and connect it to terminal #87 on the relay.

Wire #2. Run a jumper wire (16 ga will do) from the top of fuse #6 (or any switched power source) to term #86 on the relay.

Wire #3. Use a 12ga wire to jump from where wire #1 used to be on the fusebox to term #30 on the relay.

Wire #4. Ground the relay (term #85).

That's all there is to it. Keep in mind though that a 15 amp relay may be undersized if you have lights that will melt the bumpers off the car in front. If that's the case, then you need to relay the headlights as well. Diagrams to relay the headlights or to add a buzzer will be posted if anyone needs 'em.
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Boy, that was quick!! Here's the buzzer diagram. You can use either the seatbelt or the key reminder buzzer. The relay used has a set of normally closed contacts (NC).

Wire #1. 16ga wire from relay term #87a to one side of the buzzer.

Wire #2. 16ga wire from the top of fuse #6 (or switched power source) to relay term #86.

Wire #3. 16ga wire from top of fuse #5 (or parking light circuit) to relay term #30.

Wires #4 and #5. Ground

Gimme a day or two for the headlight relays.
 

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rcess said:
I believe that not having the headlights wired through the ignition switch might be a U.S. requirement. Every car I have rented in Italy (one Fiat and five Alfas) had them wired through the ignition switch, as is the case for my Euro-spec Giulietta Sprint. In contrast, my U.S.-spec Giulietta and 1750 Spiders are not wired through the ignition switch.
Hmmm this is news to me. My German spec GTV does not have the headlights wired through the ignition.

The radio, on the other hand, is wired through my ignition.
<snicker, snicker>

Speaking of wiring through the ignition, I want to install a kill switch. Any special instructions or diagrams for this? Thanks!
 

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The lowbeam headlight relay circuit is attached. But first, a little electric 101 for those who may not know. Volts, amps and watts.
Think of these as water in a pipe where volts is the pressure, amps (current) is the flow and watts are the amount consumed. Since 1 watt equals 1 volt times 1 amp, a very useful formula for automotive stuff is amps equals watts divided by volts. For example, the Bilux headlight bulbs as fitted to series 1 1750 Euro GTVs have a watt rating of 40/45; 40 watts lobeam and 45 watts hibeam. So the stock hibeams pull 7.5 amps thru the headlight switch (45 watts each X 2 divided by 12[battery voltage]). Pretty close to the design limit of the switch. But putting in 'piss the neighbors off' 80/100 H4 paint burners will pull 16.67 amps thru the switch on hibeam and will toast the switch in pretty short order. With a relay, the switch will see milliamps instead of mega-amps since the switch turns on and off only the relay while the power to the lights goes thru the relay contacts.
Wire gauge is another thing to consider. The existing wiring may not be able to handle the extra current. The following is from the NEC.

16 gauge - 12 amps maximun
14 gauge - 15 amps
12 gauge - 20 amps
10 gauge - 30 amps

Size and fuse the wire accordingly to avoid a bill from the fire department.

Now to the diagram. The fuse box is from a US version 105/115.
Wire #1. Remove from the top of fuse #10 (lobeam from headlight switch) and connect to relay terminal #86.
Wire #2. jump from relay term #87 to where wire #1 used to be on the fusebox - use 12 ga minimum.
Wire #3. unswitched power to relay term #30 - 12 ga - inline fuse recommended
Wire #4. ground.
Your headlight switch will thank you!
High beam circuit to follow.
 

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High beam relay

Wire #1. Remove from the top of fuse #8 (highbeam from headlight switch) and connect to relay terminal #86.
Wire #2. jump from relay term #87 to where wire #1 used to be on the fusebox - use 12 ga minimum.
Wire #3. unswitched power to relay term #30 - 12 ga - inline fuse recommended
Wire #4. ground.

Hey Kai,
Do you want to kill the ignition, fuel pump or the whole car?
 

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Re: High beam relay

papajam said:
Hey Kai,
Do you want to kill the ignition, fuel pump or the whole car?
Dear Shell Answer Man,

I have a mechanical fuel pump, so I don't think there's a difference on my car. Thanks!
 

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Re: Re: High beam relay

67GTV said:
Dear Shell Answer Man,

Cute! But I don't know if it's good or bad. Besides, I cut my mechanics teeth at a Gulf station.:D

There are a few things you can do to disable the ignition. One way is to just remove the coil wire or the rotor. But I think, and please correct me if I'm wrong, your '67 has a Bosch 041 JF4 distributor so the rotor is held on with a screw. Not at all convenient to remove especially at black tie events (ha ha). A hidden toggle switch to interrupt a circuit is probably the way to go short of a lojack or something. But where to put it. If you put a toggle between the ignition switch and the starter, the starter won't crank the engine but car can still be push started. Interrupting the power to the coil works too but but can be somewhat easily overcome with a jumper from battery pos to coil pos to hot wire the ignition. But interrupting (or grounding) the coil negative is much harder to figure out in the one minute or so a thief will spend trying to steal your car so it gets my vote. You could even use a single DPST switch to both ground the coil AND interrupt the starter. Diagrams on request.

The Gulftane Meister
 

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Re: Re: Re: High beam relay

Please, Jim. THank you! :D I'm gearing up to do all the mods you mentioned. :D

papajam said:
Diagrams on request.
I still remember when I was a kid, my dad used to disable the car by removing the rotor every time - what a hassle.
It would be great if I can just turn a hidden switch and it works as an anti-theft device.

I have a question -
What does a KILL SWITCH on a race car actually do? Does it kill the power from the battery? Or it kills the ignition only?

Thx. :D
 

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Re: Re: Re: Re: High beam relay

alfa_chan said:


I have a question -
What does a KILL SWITCH on a race car actually do? Does it kill the power from the battery? Or it kills the ignition only?

Thx. :D
It cuts the electric from the battery. It's located somewhere on the outside of the car so corner worker or marshall can turn off the electric in an emergency.
 
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