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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Yes, .. Is there a trick to save a rubber tree? I drove the car about 1/2 a mile rowing through the gears and the outer shift boot ripped apart in the bellows. I installed it with the proper hold down ring and 4 screws on a bare tunnel. Is there a magic installation method to prevent this is from happening again? The parts book shows the boot's base lip extending over the hold down ring (flange). I never saw that happening with the one I had from one of the usual suspects. I never had enough material to penetrate it with the four screws
snivelingly, Uncle.. Help

All the tunnel case stuff is new to me... quite a learning experience.... and truly a PITA
 

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To BOOT or not to BOOT...

Dear Annihilator of rubber trees,
It is likely you sourced the incorrect BOOT - part # 102.04.51.151.00

Your tunnel case tranny calls for (27) part # 1495.90.008
... and NO, I don't have one.
Here's a pic for your convenience:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dear Annihilator of rubber trees,
It is likely you sourced the incorrect BOOT - part # 102.04.51.151.00

Your tunnel case tranny calls for (27) part # 1495.90.008
... and NO, I don't have one.
Here's a pic for your convenience:
au contrare, negatory, oh wise one.. How does an $81 shot in the shorts sound? Not even a, duh?, from the vendor. It was the right one produced wrong. He will get it put under his nose at the national.
 

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I wouldn't shove that boot too far up anywhere just yet....
Looks like you installed it all wrong.
If you look at the parts breakdown drawing, the boot goes UNDER the shift lever !
 

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That is the question !

I personally think Uncle Rick booted the throttle....hard

101/105, there are actually 2 boots on the 750, just like the 101, boot #24 goes under the shift lever & boot #27 is the dust excluder which seals the tranny tunnel to the lever & it's fitted correctly............

Uncle R it's difficult to tell from across the pond, but if anything it should have pulled out from under the ring & not split at the flexible bellows ??? Right one produced wrong may in fact be right.......

Good luck with getting a new one

Ciao
Nephew

p.s if you had a column shift 750B like me, this topic would be academic :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wouldn't shove that boot too far up anywhere just yet....
Looks like you installed it all wrong.
If you look at the parts breakdown drawing, the boot goes UNDER the shift lever !
That would be hard to do as there is already one there one there, Rando. the one you see is part #27. Yes, I will be shoving. The boot that is torn is the top one that is on the shift lever and held in place withe the clloar/flange/ring on the tunnel . I'm getting one from another vendor so the thread will have a conclusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I personally think Uncle Rick booted the throttle....hard

101/105, there are actually 2 boots on the 750, just like the 101, boot #24 goes under the shift lever & boot #27 is the dust excluder which seals the tranny tunnel to the lever & it's fitted correctly............

Uncle R it's difficult to tell from across the pond, but if anything it should have pulled out from under the ring & not split at the flexible bellows ??? Right one produced wrong may in fact be right.......

Good luck with getting a new one

Ciao
Nephew

p.s if you had a column shift 750B like me, this topic would be academic :D
Thanks for 'splaining that nephew. The book shows the foot of the boot ... did I say that? .....with enough material to extend beyond the hold down collar. This one couldn't extend to the screws but had a raised lip so I gave it a go . It worked for at the first shakedown around the block but couldn't handle the second trip. Everything is stock with the tranny cross member so there wasn't anything out of order as far as the height of the turret.. The only thing I can think of is I didn't account for any sound deadening mat that could have been under the mounting ring that would have given me some more material to work with, but a friend of mine chucked his new one for keeping his original when he ran into the same problem. That's why I posted this. Old age has crept in but I'm not terminal yet.. I'm looking for similar experiences to learn from... This is my very first tunnel case experience. The goddamn $81 is what is launching me into orbit. Signed, The Rookie
 

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ClassicAlfa have the rubber boots in stock and they fit very well. I had very little stretching to do to get it to fit the ring and also to accomodate the four bolts. However, there was one and only one position that it wanted to sit and I taped it in that position befdore fitting down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If this helps at all here's a picture of the boot that came on my 750F.
I noticed it seemed more plastic than rubber.

Doug
I'm not surprised it was the plasti-rubber compound. That was used quite a bit on the cars and is not reproduced as such being more toward rubber now. Thank you for the photo. Stuart, fwiw, Tony Stevens is sending me one at half the price I paid for this one and yes, Richard is a good vendor too that I lean on and don't have to deal with "back-orders, should be here in two weeks" that never make the boat but Tony had some other stuff for me. He was easily accessible, too, and responsive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stuart (anyone?) where do I find the lower front door vertical seal that fits on the body at the kick panel ase we say? It's about the last bit I need for the beast...PS we are getting a soaker so the F1 circus will be a circus in the rain today
 

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Rick,
I may well have missed this point but is the car a Sprint or Spider?
 

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Thanks for your message Rick. There is a continuous rubber seal which runs round the edge of the door card. At the front of the door opening there is an aluminium folded section which fits over the steel edge of the "A" post ....it is like an inverted hockey stick. If this is what is missing I am having some made for my car but they will be sized to suit the profile of the my door card and rubber seal. Would this help?
PS What great race......Button from 21st to 1st was astonishing!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for your message Rick. There is a continuous rubber seal which runs round the edge of the door card. At the front of the door opening there is an aluminium folded section which fits over the steel edge of the "A" post ....it is like an inverted hockey stick. If this is what is missing I am having some made for my car but they will be sized to suit the profile of the my door card and rubber seal. Would this help?
PS What great race......Button from 21st to 1st was astonishing!
"Button lets it all hang out and Zips to victory on the Fly"-- Tony Ranson would have been ecstatic... I know what you mean.. I have all that and the door seal coming. I need the vertical piece down below between the dash and the floor at the front of the door opening. It wedges on the flange with some sort of seal like the Spider but is it the same?
 

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Rick....I don't believe that the vertical piece has a seal like the Spider....the seal is on the door which pushes against the vertical piece. I am making the vertical pieces for my car as I said
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Rick....I don't believe that the vertical piece has a seal like the Spider....the seal is on the door which pushes against the vertical piece. I am making the vertical pieces for my car as I said
Here's a picture of Tony's 66PP and mine has a slot next to the dash for it. Genericly it's called "pinch welt" or windlace and places like Woolies in the UK has it. Any uphostery supply house carries it. I just thought there might be a cloth covered one that would be specific for the car.
 

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Rick, From the cars that I have seen this item is a folded aluminium piece against which the door rubber seals. The photographs that I have are frankly not good enought to transmit but it seems to consistant with the treatment of the rear face of the door opening.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Received the boot from Tony Stevens. It is an improvement but there is no way it will work without stretching it and ruining it in the way it was designed to be installed. I'm pursuing another course. The design is such that the boot should be positioned unstressed in a neutral position, out of gear. there is no way for this to happen. Thanks everyone for the input. The car has never been bent, it has the correct cross member without spacersand the tunnel has not been modified as it stlill has the retaining ring and welded nuts in place where they should be.
 
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