Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
390 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Everytime I open the trunk, the seal moves or comes loose, especially around the gas cap. Is there some kind of sticky stuff I can apply to keep it stable?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,710 Posts
You are on a roll, aren't you.

The door glass has to be in front of me .. That was 30 years ago. Someone else can help with one apart. It's pretty simple but some cars will bite on simple stuff. Its a minor adjustment once the door card is off... Don't break the ****ed clips.. That is a whole chapter by itself.

The trunk gasket.. your lid frame is wubbing on the gasket when you close the lid and open it. The proper way to fix that is to adjust the hinges either backward or forward on the cowl and lid. Start by learning if the hinge studs are absolutely centered in the hole (8 of them).. and note them. If not centered , do it..Since you have a white car use a crayon to mark the hinges fore and aft both on the cowl and the lid. then experiment with moving the lid fore and aft by loosening the nuts... NOT REMOVING.. in the hinges on the lid a silly mm at a time. An 8 mm nut driver is very handy ( Sears 7 bucks). I'm going to guess the lid is too far back.. 50-50... flip a coin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,710 Posts
...or use a piece of blue painter's tape instead of a crayon. Make sure the shock absorber stud continues to fit in the recess in the lid when it closes or you will be very po'ed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
not to hijack the tread, I found that the seal I purchased from US supplier is too tall / thick, making the panel gap fit not to my liking- who sells the 'correct' rubber?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,974 Posts
Everytime I open the trunk, the seal moves or comes loose, especially around the gas cap. Is there some kind of sticky stuff I can apply to keep it stable?
Len,

I once had the same problem with all of the seals on my Spider, no glue that was able to hold them in place. You have to source a special one for this kind of rubber, I bought it at the time from Elvezio.

Dennis
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
21,688 Posts
The yellow 3M weatherstripping glue won't hold it? It works sort of like rubber cement, put a bead on each piece, let it set, press together? It has worked for 15+ years on my Super's trunk seal, which seems like similar rubber. I will be facing this soon on my Normale's trunk.

Andrew
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,710 Posts
The yellow 3M weatherstripping glue won't hold it? It works sort of like rubber cement, put a bead on each piece, let it set, press together? It has worked for 15+ years on my Super's trunk seal, which seems like similar rubber. I will be facing this soon on my Normale's trunk.

Andrew
I agree with Andrew. 3M yellow or black will work. The geometry of the lid closure makes this rather vexing if everything isn't just right. The lid edge at the bottom and as Len learned around the gas cap (the frame in his case) can cause the rubber to roll and release if it's just not quite right aligned right and at the bottom, once the lip nudges the rubber out of kilter a tiny bit it gets to be a PITA to get it to stay put as the interference pulls at the glue. Once the gasket gets the nudge, it becomes worse as the lid cycles up and down.. kinda like having the tip of your shoe sole separate when we were kids. I for years had to roll the rubber back with my finger tips out of the way to keep the bottom section of rubber from rolling down off it's glued place when I closed the lid slowly. I finally cured the problem with more glue to set the gasket in place... and curing the two surfaces to make it stick.

Alfa must have had issues with this as they latter glued the gasket to the lid which was their solution to a problem they didn't have to deal with anymore.

Sources... I don't think US sourced stuff is any different than anything else but I haven't had them side by side with EYETALIAN stuff. I'm pretty sure mine came from Centerline 30 years ago. Uncle

PS if the standing metal edge is dinged DOWN at the lower edge of the opening, it will cause the problem . Carefully weeking it up a curly red hair can make a big difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,710 Posts
Here's another glue that Claus Menzel, my swears by. I accused him of putting it on his toast in the morning. He thinks it is the best and I would recommend trying it on those pesky sections of the gasket that won't stay put. I glued a pad on my Veloce oil pan stop and it's been there for months. Your local hardware store should have it for less than $4. Shoe Goo!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,974 Posts
Here´s a 3M glue that is recomended for the rubber seal of my Volvo Amazon trunk as the seal consists of cell rubber. Looks like any other rubber though.....if your trunk seal is made out of the same material (cell rubber), there will be difficulties to make it stick with other adhesives.

Dennis
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I realize Dr. Len's thread here is 5 years old, but it answered a question I had about how the trunk seal fits around the large fuel filler gasket, and maybe it can help condense other trunk seal info for future researching. This also didn't have an answer as to if there had been a proper solution that worked. And we all like happy endings, right?

I see this seal area at the filler could be an issue area. I have a new Elvezio gasket seal. And...seeing how the Elvezio convertible top header seal was too thick for another thread on that rubber, I'm hoping this won't have to be pulled off later for the same fitment issues.

I'm still waiting on my chrome shop to get my rear hinges back, so I can't test fit this curved spot yet, but I had a few questions from my photos at this juncture: 1.) Is my new seal facing the correct way out? 2.) The fuel filler seal really makes the new gasket sit pretty high up there. Would it be a good idea to trim the thick bottom part of the new gasket as it goes on top of and around that thick filler seal so that it fits at the same height as the rest of the trunk seal around the lip? 3.) Is the center of the lower lip below the lock receiver the best place to seam it together?

Knocking this and the rear body seam seal out this morning now that I have the correct length of that. I am using the same black 3M adhesive seen in Dennis's photo above for all. I have always used the 3M Adhesive remover. That can has lasted for at least two decades!

Thanks for any helpful direction, Dave.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Dave,
Your pictures do not seem to show the seal in the correct orientation.
The slit in the rubber should fit over the flange of the trunk opening.
Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
Joe,
I thought so too, but it didn't seem to fit right like that. The rubber sat too high using the flap and didn't come down to the bottom of the gutter. It filled that gutter better the way it is in the picture. I thought it was made to repel the water with the rubber flap on top, facing out...as in most door gaskets. Bummer.

I couldn't tell from Len's photo above. It looked like it ran below the lip at the bottom (most likely because it came off in use) but now I see the rubber flap may be over it above the gas filler. I already glued it down after trimming the back around the filler seal, unfortunately....Great. Thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Dave
Joe is correct... The seal is supposed to be on the vertical lip. They never fit correctly and the boot lid always sits proud.
I am looking a the same seal on Steele rubber's web site it is just smaller than the one Elvezio sells. The problem is they get almost $7.00 a foot. Sponge Rubber Extrusion (General Use)
p/n: 40-0162-99 I am going to give it a try as I have never had any luck from the ones sold by the usual vendors.
made by Cicognanni
I think it will be perfect..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I stopped at my storage shop after work to inspect how bad I wasted my time. The seal came up kind of easily with that 3M adhesive, surprisingly. It didn't ruin any of the rubber, but left a mess in the gutter for the adhesive remover. It just looks and fits like a mistake the correct way. I didn't realize it left so much room outside of the seal in that gutter. I can see why that rubber lip comes off easily at the gas filler curve. It does seem to sit too high above the deck and fender height. One step forward, two back. Oh well. That Shoe Goo may come into play!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Dave, your seal looks ok to me. It is not intended to fill the gutter, if that is your concern.
There has to be room for the trunk prop rod alongside it when the lid is open.

Joe


42FC8AF4-F735-4723-8357-6A37D6CAEA38.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
Joe, thanks for the photo...filling the gutter wasn’t my concern as much as the gasket doesn’t seem to sit down far enough on the metal lip above along the fenders. Wish I had seen your photo first. Makes sense now. Hopefully I can clean the adhesive out without any paint issues.

I’ll have to start another thread to see how the Spider door gaskets look...I’m O for 1 guessing right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
Too thick and too stiff reproduction rubber is all too common! You would not think reproducing these simple rubbers would be so hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Dave
Ciccognanni makes ALL the rubber for All the vendors. Buying direct from them changes nothing.
Look at the steel rubber part # I sent and you will see it is the same shape but dimensionally smaller.
I believe thats the ticket.
Ric
RML
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top