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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there

My trunk light never worked. I found the (original?) switch somewhere in the trunk. I realized that the spring in switch was pretty rusty and wasnt applying any tension anymore so probably the PO just pulled it. I quickly replaced the spring. And wanted to install it only to realise that it's barely fitting in the hole, almost hitting the backwall. It clips juuust in, but I cant press the plastic thingy in beyond 1mm (works flawless outside).

Is this switch different (shorter) than the ones in the door or in the engine bay?

Thanks!
 

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Hey there

My trunk light never worked. I found the (original?) switch somewhere in the trunk. I realized that the spring in switch was pretty rusty and wasnt applying any tension anymore so probably the PO just pulled it. I quickly replaced the spring. And wanted to install it only to realise that it's barely fitting in the hole, almost hitting the backwall. It clips juuust in, but I cant press the plastic thingy in beyond 1mm (works flawless outside).

Is this switch different (shorter) than the ones in the door or in the engine bay?

Thanks!
Did you bend the male spade connector at the end of the switch 90 degrees? You’ll want to thread the light fixture wire under the bracket and through the switch mounting bracket hole, then connect the wire to the switch, then insert the switch into the bracket. The wire needs to feed back out the side, not up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@bellagt yes, the spade was originally 90°, i bent it to 180° at first (just copied what i learnt from the other ones). But back to 90° when I realised i cannot even stuff it into the hole without it.

I followed exactly your procedure with the wire. I wouldnt know how to do it otherwise. :) How much way should the plastic-button have in a regular install?
 

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@bellagt yes, the spade was originally 90°, i bent it to 180° at first (just copied what i learnt from the other ones). But back to 90° when I realised i cannot even stuff it into the hole without it.

I followed exactly your procedure with the wire. I wouldnt know how to do it otherwise. :) How much way should the plastic-button have in a regular install?
It really doesn’t matter how much play the switch has since the trunk is either full open or closed. So just push the switch until its flange bottoms out on the bracket. Be sure ti scrape off the paint on the inside edge to get a good ground to the body.
 

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@bellagt Sorry I didnt mean play, but rather how much it should be able to be pressed - since currently I have about 1mm of travel until it hits the top-metal.
Again, it doesn’t matter unless you want the light to turn on/off at a specific point in the swing arc of the trunk. Just make sure the switch opens and the light is de-energized when trunk is closed.
 

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I'm more afraid that, because the switch almost cant be depressed, closing the trunk will crush the switch with it's lever pressure.
How far does the plastic peg protrude from the metal flange when fully extended? Can you post a picture? Maybe you have the switch mixed up with the longer pegged switch that was used on the drivers door as part of the seat belt interlock ( in that application there were two door switches and Alfa wanted one of the switches to open before the other).
 

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As I have an EU car, theres no seat belt interlock. I quickly compared it to the ones in the doors. They all seem to protrude the same amount.

View attachment 1748851
Looks like the right switch.
Here’s what the install should look like. The peg extends 7/16” when fully extended and the switch is closed (circuit energized).
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if it works fine in your hands, then my guess is when you press the switch into the hole, something (like that single spring tab) is getting pressed into the switch and stopping the button from moving

your switch does appear somewhat mis-shapen, compared to a good one
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
if it works fine in your hands, then my guess is when you press the switch into the hole, something (like that single spring tab) is getting pressed into the switch and stopping the button from moving

your switch does appear somewhat mis-shapen, compared to a good one
View attachment 1748961 View attachment 1748962
Mine's certainly bent a little bit, but works ok outside the hole.

Whats weird is that i feel with the fingers in the hole (where the cable is fed through) i can feel the switch bottoming out onto the top panel without even pressing. Not really sure whats going on.
 

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if it is bottoming out then the trunk light would be constantly on, right?
if the metal bracket it fits into hasn't been squashed in, then it should not hit the metal inside that bracket once you push it it. obviously...it needs a gap for the plastic plunger to move

maybe compare it to the one in the door. Just because you found it in the trunk, doesn't mean it belongs there
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks guys for keeping up with me. :)

So i found it out. silly me, I took the switch out and was seeking with the finger again. And i didnt realise the the terminal needed to be bent upward (180°/inline with the switches movement) so that it fits through yet another hole on top. Since i had the tab bent 90° it never fit through the upper hole and only just cleared the lower cavity. o_O

I probably misinterpreted @bellagt 's message and assumed the wrong hole to feed the wire through.
 

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1971 GTV 1750 AR1532830 USA/Spica
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I see where the switch is located in the GTV trunk, where is the light mounted? Mine apparently should have the light and switch, but I don't. Thanks. '71 USA GTV 1750 I assume it would be the same as GTV 2000s
 

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I see where the switch is located in the GTV trunk, where is the light mounted? Mine apparently should have the light and switch, but I don't. Thanks. '71 USA GTV 1750 I assume it would be the same as GTV 2000s
The light is mounted under the rear window parcel panel, along its centerline, about half a foot from the trunk opening.
 
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