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Discussion Starter #1
a special thanks to recent help from the AlfaBB readers and Eric Russell's tune guide.
I have tested the cold start injector works great when wired directly.
i'm on a used, but apparently tests ok Thermal Tine Switch..
cold start injector doesn't energize.
might it be the fuel ECU, or should I send for a NEW TTS?
thought are appreciated.
ALSO..i have an old thermostatic actuator from a 1750 spica for sale/make offer.
thanks to all.
 

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The ECU is not in the circuit. Unplug the connector to the CSI and with the ignition on you should get 12 volts on one of the connector pins. The injector opens when the other pin is pulled to ground by the TTS.
 

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i'm on a used, but apparently tests ok Thermal Tine Switch..
cold start injector doesn't energize.
what do you mean by 'apparently':)
someone told you it wass ok, or you tested it yourself?
If you haven't tested it yourself, then test it to be sure,

also check the bosch connectors on TTS and CSI, sometimes it's a simple problem whereby one of the female pins inside gets pushed back and doesn't make contact anymore

CSI and TTS Baloney
Questions re: CSI, TTS and TPS testing
 

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Well, your injector is good, so that's good. Go through the TTS troubleshooting steps here:


Note that the W-to-ground measurement should be very close to zero Ohm when cold. I've seen older TTS parts that have built up a couple ohms resistance in this ground path. If that happens it may not allow enough current for the CSI to fire, so be cognizant of that.

Also note that the TTS/CSI are only powered when the starter is powered, not when the ignition is on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks so much. I've done all that, finally got a used unit w/ zero ohms when grounding to W.
but provided the connections are not faulty, any other thoughts?
thank you.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Well, you powered the CSI directly and it fired. I would try powering it through the TTS (with TTS cold) and see if it fires like that, and then also verify that it's getting power during cranking.

(note that the TTS circuit to the CSI will open after seeing 12V for approximately 8 seconds, so if you do the first test you'll likely need to do it quick)

I'm on the road and don't have my L-Jet wiring diagrams so can't suggest how best to do these at the moment, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the interest and advice.
I pigtailed direct to my (3)TTS's. no change.
I guess I don't trust my own testing at this point.….although reading great manuals. thanks alfabb.
an easy fix? send for a (NEW) TTS?
ALL WAS FINE 'TILL I STARTED PUTTING ALL BACK TOGETHER FOR SALE!
started fine, ran ok. now no start.
cold start works beautifully straight wired.
used TTS test ok.
I need this car gone,.....trying to move residence.
i'd rather drive an ALFA, but I need all my attentions to an old HEALEY at this time.
Charlie.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
a special thanks to recent help from the AlfaBB readers and Eric Russell's tune guide.
I have tested the cold start injector works great when wired directly.
i'm on a used, but apparently tests ok Thermal Tine Switch..
cold start injector doesn't energize.
might it be the fuel ECU, or should I send for a NEW TTS?
thought are appreciated.
ALSO..i have an old thermostatic actuator from a 1750 spica for sale/make offer.
thanks to all.
The ECU is not in the circuit. Unplug the connector to the CSI and with the ignition on you should get 12 volts on one of the connector pins. The injector opens when the other pin is pulled to ground by the TTS.
The ECU is not in the circuit. Unplug the connector to the CSI and with the ignition on you should get 12 volts on one of the connector pins. The injector opens when the other pin is pulled to ground by the TTS.
thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, your injector is good, so that's good. Go through the TTS troubleshooting steps here:


Note that the W-to-ground measurement should be very close to zero Ohm when cold. I've seen older TTS parts that have built up a couple ohms resistance in this ground path. If that happens it may not allow enough current for the CSI to fire, so be cognizant of that.

Also note that the TTS/CSI are only powered when the starter is powered, not when the ignition is on.
 

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when cranking do you get voltage at TTS (grey/green wire)?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
voltmeter...black to ground on car, red to grey/green, good voltage
IF I reverse leads, blue also has voltage.
thanks for your guidance.
 

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OK, that is something...means the TTS is getting power (which is there to heat the bi-metallic strip and that should make the ground circuit to the CSI), which means "this" grey/green at connector G121 behind the glovebox is ok (that was one of my worries)

Now, do you also get 12v whilst cranking on the grey/green of the CSI? (this also runs through G121)
(Both need to receive power whilst cranking...the TTS then completes the ground - as long as it is cold enough outside - and the CSI fires)

and finally is there continuity between the blue wire of the TTS connector and the blue wire of the CSI connector
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, that is something...means the TTS is getting power (which is there to heat the bi-metallic strip and that should make the ground circuit to the CSI), which means "this" grey/green at connector G121 behind the glovebox is ok (that was one of my worries)

Now, do you also get 12v whilst cranking on the grey/green of the CSI? (this also runs through G121)
(Both need to receive power whilst cranking...the TTS then completes the ground - as long as it is cold enough outside - and the CSI fires)

and finally is there continuity between the blue wire of the TTS connector and the blue wire of the CSI connector
OK, that is something...means the TTS is getting power (which is there to heat the bi-metallic strip and that should make the ground circuit to the CSI), which means "this" grey/green at connector G121 behind the glovebox is ok (that was one of my worries)

Now, do you also get 12v whilst cranking on the grey/green of the CSI? (this also runs through G121)
(Both need to receive power whilst cranking...the TTS then completes the ground - as long as it is cold enough outside - and the CSI fires)

and finally is there continuity between the blue wire of the TTS connector and the blue wire of the CSI connector
 

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When these fuel injection systems are working right they are wonderful. I've had my '85 Graduate for about 7 months. The guy who sold it to me told me, "When you start it don't touch the throttle!" As long as I keep my foot off the gas it always starts instantly, no matter what the temperature, even after sitting for a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When these fuel injection systems are working right they are wonderful. I've had my '85 Graduate for about 7 months. The guy who sold it to me told me, "When you start it don't touch the throttle!" As long as I keep my foot off the gas it always starts instantly, no matter what the temperature, even after sitting for a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks.
my situation is checking out the TTS and CSI.
straight wired, the CSI sprays. but the trigger for that is what I can't sort.
 

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Get one of these. It makes testing very easy.

You plug it into the TTS connector it should light up when you crank on the car. If it doesn't light up you have a problem in the wiring to the TTS. If it lights up connect it to the CSI if it lights up the TTS works. If not its bad.

Remember the engine has to be completely cold. Once it runs for a minute the coolant will be to warm.

There are probably cheaper ones. This was the first one that popped up. Bosch uses the flat blades. Like the picture shows.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
perfect. hadn't thought that way. I picked up a set recently.
appreciate the thoughts.
 
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