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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
Are you going to put the front rollcage section back in?

In many rollcage installations the dashboards are cut ...
Pete
I don’t think so. The rear cage will stay unless I can come up with a way of cutting the tubes and then reattaching them once the dash is in without welding them!?!?
 

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Custom Roll Cage - Roll Cage & Chassis Fabrication Parts there are several solutions for making a welded cage into a bolted one. It will never be the same consideringstrenth, but that is a choice. Bolted cages are even still valid for racing (if the rest of the cage made like the rules are).Make a bolted footplate at the bottom of the A post , make a sleeve construction at the top of the B post. Make the side bars detachable.
 

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71 gt 1600 euro 73gtv usa
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Building a "gentleman's racer"...... Using a '69 1750 as a starting point (1st car I ever had back in 1980!).....Previous owners made it into a a weekend warrior but I think this 50 year old beauty needs to have some of its "evocation" back. So taking it forwards in resto-mod mode is the goal as I'll never be able to get it back to original. There are just too many parts missing.....so might as well make it better than it was and fit for the 21st century......This winter I am getting the outside refreshed to look the part and will also be making the interior a little more hospitable for great trips. Then drive the pants off it this year and figure out what needs to be done next!

Just painted the front and added the Cibies on alfaholics (modified) front bar and added the LED delta front headlamps. Fiat 500E front indicators. Jut waiting for the "hour-glasses"
love the old school race paint sceem.....may i ask where you got the front fender flares from???
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
OK which looks better...... I think I already know the answer...... Alfaholics front GTA style stainless mesh around lights and grill or original Alfa GTV black mesh and chrome?
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1682290
 

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Mesh as is, but with a fresh coat of black paint (the mesh below as well), I might go with the original...
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
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All engine ancillaries done. Lid now on and all bulkhead grommets done! Putting off the wiring as it’s the “big unknown”!!! So trim the roof and door builds next with all bright work.....
 

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Looks awesome.

Is the light bar designed to have another set of lights in front of the headlights? ... otherwise you could cut off the ends off the bar pass the bumper mounting holes

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Looks awesome.

Is the light bar designed to have another set of lights in front of the headlights? ... otherwise you could cut off the ends off the bar pass the bumper mounting holes

Pete
I think it is. You could have a couple more smaller lights facing outwards rather than frontwards so you could see around corners when you power oversteer !! 😂👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Who has the correct suspension castor angles. I have a rubbing right wheel on the wheel well when turning right
1686298
 

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This is from Alfaholics
....

Your car should sit level from side to side with maybe a small drop towards the passenger side. Alfa designed them like this so that the weight of the driver levelled the car up! Measure the distance from the top of each wheel arch through the centreline of the wheel to the ground to check the ride height. You may need to move spacers around the car to level it up. The car should look like it’s sitting slightly tail-down but if you put a spirit level on the top of the sill (rocker panel) with the door open you should find that it’s level here, it’s just the shape of the car that makes it look like it isn’t. A slight drop towards the rear of the car is fine but the handling will suffer if the car drops towards the front. You can add or remove spacers to get this right. At the rear, each spacer you add will alter the ride height by the thickness of the spacer but at the front adding a spacer will raise the height of the car by about 2.5 times the thickness of the spacer because of the layout of the spring and wishbones.

At the front, the camber needs to be 0.5 degrees negative for road use or 0.75 if you’re doing more track use. For very sticky tyres you can probably put a bit more on, the tyre manufacturer will be able to help here with suggestions. When you set the tracking it’s most important is to make sure that the centre track rod is as near to 540mm long (centre to centre of the ball joints) as you can get it. The outers need to be about the same length as each other, adjust the tracking with these NOT the centre one, set the tracking so that the wheels toe IN by 1mm total. For castor, put as much as you can get on without the upper arm fouling on the bodywork. Make sure that both sides are equal though.

We recommend the Koni Sport (yellow) dampers for road and mild track use. Fit these on the softest setting (as they come out of the box). You can experiment with adjusting them after you have driven the car but they should be about right as they are for most uses. If you need to adjust them, follow the instructions given by Koni.

If you are using Bilstein dampers, these are not adjustable so just fit and forget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
“Rear seat delete” framework in place. It’s amazing how slow and detailed the interior trim and wiring process has become!
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