[Rumi Faizer]

Syncros are bad on my 1750 spider. I was looking at a transmission rebuild but figure I'm looking at close to a grand. I've seen a couple of lightly used late 80's transmissions on e-bay for about 400$, and was wondering about just switching them out until I get a chance to do a really good rebuild on my transmission with lightened gears, etc..

Any advice?

Thanks

 

[ghnl]

Assuming the transmissions from those two model years are a direct swap, then why not - it sounds like a good idea. However, keep in mind the description 'lightly used' is open to interpretation. You could buy that 80's model transmission and still find the synchro's are marginal and bearings noisy and seals leaky...

I'd be leery of an eBay purchase. Have you tried calling Alfa Parts Exchange?

 

[dwc]

As long as both the donor and recipient cars had hydraulic clutches, you're golden, so swap away. But, as already stated, I wouldn't buy one of eBay unless it's someone you already know. 'rezdoc' is famous for selling parts that are "just rebuilt 5k miles ago" or "fully tested", and I'll leave my remarks on him open to your interpretation. No such issues with APE, or many members here on the BB.

As an aside, have you tried the correct oil in your existing gearbox? And by that, I mean Shell Spirax or an equivalent non-synth alternative? My favorite is Kendall's Nitro70, which is a 70-wt non-detergent motor oil, but of course, the Spirax is good stuff. Are your hydraulics and shifting skills up to par?

 

[Bill S]

If your swapped transmission is from a '74 or later car, you will need the bellhousing as well. That's around the time Alfa switched to the short shift rods. This is assuming, as DWC said, that your car has a hydraulic clutch. If it is an earlier, mechanical clutch car that someone stuck a 1750 in (like I just did to my '67) then you will need to modify your existing bellhousing. You may want to keep nursing your current tranny and buy one to lighten/rebuild and install later.

Bill

 

[Elio Comello]

Good article on "intelligent" trans rebuild on the Centerline website. Can save you bundles of cash.

Alternate opinion to DWC, with all due respect, you might try Redline 70W80NS.....it could help what you have now.

TTFM Elio

 

[john.harrill]

Are there any ratio differences? I have a terrible 2nd syncro in the '88 and a spare 5-speed from a Guilia.

Do the bellhousings interchange?

 

[Bill S]

Are there any ratio differences? I have a terrible 2nd syncro in the '88 and a spare 5-speed from a Guilia.

Do the bellhousings interchange?

I'm only familier with the cars up through the Spica years and still have a lot to learn about those. If your Giulia tranny uses non-moly syncros (yellow sticker?), not much is interchangable. Maybe you could swap 2nd gear if you swapped the dog tooth ring but that's probably the part that's bad on your '88 transmission.

Bill

 

[john.harrill]

With 2 spare 5-speeds and a spare tunnel case 4-speed, I would like to use one of them in the '88 (I know the 4-speed is out).

 

[Bill S]

Well John, let's take a look at your 5 speeds. If the outside sticker is still there, is it yellow (non-moly) or red (moly)? If you look at the bellhousing end of the transmission case and put it in 2nd, 4th or REV, do the shift rods protrude past the end of the case and into the bellhousing or are they flush with the transmission case? These would be the first couple of steps in determining their suitability. What is your intention, to use parts from one of these to rebuild your '88 or to swap one out entirely?

Bill

 

[Rumi Faizer]

As long as both the donor and recipient cars had hydraulic clutches, you're golden, so swap away. But, as already stated, I wouldn't buy one of eBay unless it's someone you already know. 'rezdoc' is famous for selling parts that are "just rebuilt 5k miles ago" or "fully tested", and I'll leave my remarks on him open to your interpretation. No such issues with APE, or many members here on the BB.

As an aside, have you tried the correct oil in your existing gearbox? And by that, I mean Shell Spirax or an equivalent non-synth alternative? My favorite is Kendall's Nitro70, which is a 70-wt non-detergent motor oil, but of course, the Spirax is good stuff. Are your hydraulics and shifting skills up to par?

OK, my car currently has 80W90 oil in the gearbox. I just assumed that thick was better for the synchros. Is the &0W80 stuff (Spirax or Redline) Better? Say so and I'll do it!

Thanks,

R