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Discussion Starter #23
Here's an update on progress.

I acquired 10mm balls and only greased one of them ;), reinstalled the shifter, now reverse works great. Before, I had to slam my hand down on the shifter to engage reverse, now, just slight pressure and reverse is available.

Ball size definitely does matter, as Greig has said, 10mm or you will have trouble.

Lastly, I have 8 extra 10mm balls (min order quantity for me was 10 :(). If anyone needs 10mm balls, please send a PM.

Thanks for the help everyone. The BB solves another problem!!!!!
 

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Rick
Your suggestion is a poor substitute for an actual remedy or repair of the problem.

Movement of the slotted upper section of the shifter tube (102.02.13.602.00) beyond the pin is a result of the stop at the lower end of
the rod (102.02.13.068.01) having moved from its original position.
Attached is a diagram with the stop or barrel highlighted.
This stop is simply a collar or barrel that was brazed onto the rod to limit its upward movement.
With use, the brazed joint fails and the rod, which is threaded at its upper end, is pushed upward beyond its design limit by the spring (102.02.13.527.01).

Repair of the problem is simple: re-braze the stop to the rod or replace with a new rod.

Removal of the rod to effect the repair - therein lies the difficulty.
The Silentblock (1365.17.801) must be removed from the Hub - of gear shift knee (102.02.13.601.03).
 

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Rick
If by your post you are asking me how to remove the Silentblock from the hub in order to gain access to the lower end of the rod .. I refuse to take the gambit.

These Silentblocks as used by European manufacturer's are always difficult to work with despite all the info on the internet:




ALSO
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/giulietta-giulia-1954-65/179291-silent-block-tranny-mount-removal.html

All that won't help in removing a blind ended Silentblock, especially with a gear shift shaft in the way .. but if you turn up the heat, you may solve the dilemma.
Or you can just wait for someone else to provide the answer.
 

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Not trying to hijack this thread, but as the subject of silent blocks has come up, I need to remove and replace the silent blocks on the exhaust rocking lever and the clutch rod crank on my '64 Giulia Spider.

The posts by Gordon and others have provided great info on how to build/construct tools for removing the old ones, but who sells the new smaller silent blocks (1365.66.406) for the clutch crank?

Are there more of these that I haven't discovered?

Thanks,

Ray
 

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so that's why I suggested a "poor substitute".. The suggestion in the parts manual of supplying the components to the shifter individually is a bit misleading, IMO. I doubt any of that stuff was intended to be dismantled and replaced for obvious reasons you stated. .
Rick
I disagree .. the one bit of stuff that one, may possibly need to replace is readily available:
AlfaStop - passionate about Giuliettas (vintage Alfa Romeo Spares/Parts)

For anything else, simply contact your local Alfa Romeo dealer .. surely there is one local to you ? :smile2:
 

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Okay, some say grease before assembly, others say no grease. Need a tiebreaker here. Any new votes for or against greasing the ball bearings before assembly?


Try installing the lever with no grease in the shift lever, and let me know if you find find all the ball bearings when they go shooting out after the lever is turned upside down.

;)

That's why I put a bit of grease in. I'm not sure how to install a lever without grease and keep those little buggers inside the lever. The whole rattling shifter which can't get repaired has put a unobtainium shift lever premium on shifters that are NOS. I just sent for a swap into the 67 mechanical transmission casing of a rebuilt newer hydraulic style gear set and specified get rid of the ball bearing shifter.
I like the old thing, but if it's so hard to get shifters that don't rattle, I'm done with it.
 

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Hi All

I am reviving this old thread as it seems the most appropriate; I am also acutely aware that as a 50+ year Giulietta owner, I am encountering this problem for the first time!

1960 Sprint with a 5 speed box. Recently gear lever looseness tightened up and operated perfectly for 2k kms when gear knob and short chrome part separated from gear lever, leaving me waving around at nothing in particular....

Back home separating gear knob and short chrome length - 102.02.13.602.00 -reveals the nut for attaching them to infamous rod - 102.02.13.061.03 (numbers from post #24 above).

My problem is this inner rod/shaft appears too short - as opposed to too long in posts above - there is not enough rod/thread to attach the chrome part and screw up, even when pushing down hard on the internal spring.... The rod/shaft turns freely, but won't lift higher....

After discussions with my mechanic and friend, we wonder whether this shaft has 'indents' or something similar at it's base to stop it turning so that the screw can be tightened at the top? If so, do I have to remove the dreaded gear lever, and ball bearings, to locate it correctly?

Any suggestions welcome....

Thanks

Richard
 

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Richard
As an Alfista for 50+ years, you should count your blessings for never having previously experienced this problem !
By your description .. the rod (102.02.13.068.01) has dropped within the hollow shaft (102.02.13.061.03) and there is insufficient length extending at the top to allow you to reassemble as original.
This would suggest that your solution lies a bit lower ..
remove the clamping bolt (102.02.13.528.00) .. have a magnet in hand to capture the 10mm ball bearings (2900.34029) as you lift up and remove the shifter (102.02.067.01).
Beneath pin (102.02.12.067.03) you will find what remains of spring (102.02.623.00).
Likely that it has fractured, allowing the components above it to drop out of position.
 

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Hi GTD

Thank you for that very helpful post....I will try your solution once replacement spring received.

Again, thanks.

Richard
 
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