[Vintre]

Hello all,

I recently found a transmission leak coming from the shift tower. Sure enough I found the inner boot torn.

I replaced it and it has ripped again!

1. Tips and tricks to install this thing so it won't rip again? It's not hard to replace, but is a PIA!?

2. Is there another boot someone has found out there that fits? My source is a 45 minute drive away.

Thanks in advance,

Vin

 

[Elio Comello]

Ciao Vince,
Suggest you try an OE one

Contact Dean Russell
Trail Auto
[email protected] 313 561 3327
in Dearborn Hts MI.
Alternately I can mail you one.
Elio

 

[101/105guy]

I agree ! So many of the reproduction parts are just junk.

Here's a center support I got from a regular supplier and took a close look before installing.

Also a ner motor mount from the samer source. Mounting holes just a little off.....

 

[Vintre]

I got this boot from Pino at Pinorello Motori so I have to believe it is OE.

Do you think I should grease the inside of the boot where the shifter goes through?

I still have the old boot and it is ripped in the same spot.

Has to be a best method out there.

Thanks,

Vin

 

[sloboy89]

Vin,

I'm getting ready to replace my inner shift boot, as well. At the end of the thread at the link below, Tifosi suggests rolling the edges of the hose clamp. I thought I would give that a try.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...smission-breather-vents-pumping-gear-oil.html

 

[Gordon Raymond]

Vin, I had a long talk with Joe Cabb at Centerline about these boots. Those we get in the US come from many sources, and many of our good parts dealers have little choice in the boots that appear. I understand none of these are REAL Alfa made boots, as they are sourced from various vendors by price. We had some plastic ones that came apart at the seams, and rubber ones that failed in the folds. Over time, it seems the rubber like ones outlast the plastic ones. Age failure is just rubber deterioration, they crack or develop small holes.
I like Dean Russell's stuff too. Dean will tell you if what he has is not the best. I have made some high quality parts for Dean that are far superior to any imported stuff. Not as cheap, but that isn't the point, is it? Dean goes for high quality parts, and most of us who use his parts do so because quality beats price, particularly if you can avoid doing the same job twice!
Just my opinion.

 

[Joe Papa Sr]

Man, too bad thats the way things go these days in the parts sourcing industry. I have also replaced my shift boot 2X in say, 6 years- tears to shreds every time. Junk. Gotr mine from IAP and I think Some othetr supplier cant remember .

On the questioon on how to lubricate the shaft "hole" on the boot- of course, you cant use oil, but diluted soap is good OR a tiny amount of silicone.

 

[Gordon Raymond]

Silicone. (Spit works too, but lets not go there!)

 

[Vintre]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

I took the 45 minute drive this morning to get an OE replacement.

The only difference I could see with this boot was the marking. On the previous 2 boots, there was a "455" molded into the side of the boot, near the top.

This one had a "2" molded in. I am going with different suppliers as to the difference. Also, this one was more rubbery.

Things I did this time, was:

1. Made sure the top of the transmission tower was oil free, clean and dry.
2. Made sure the rubber boot was as far down the shifter shaft as possible.
3. Made sure the rubber boot was as high up on the shifter tower as possible.

Took her for a drive tonite and it feels a bit tight changing from 1st to 2nd. This is where the most stress is put on that boot from what I can see.

No gear oil drip so far.

I am going to take another look in the morning at the boot to make sure it is still on and under as little stress as possible when changing gears.

Thanks for all the help.

On another note, there is a lot of engine heat coming into the compartment from the shifter area, but that's another thread.

Vin

 

[Vintre]

Update.

2 days of driving, maybe 200Km tops, and its ripped in the same spot, across the back (towards the engine) in the folds. I mean the EXACT SAME SPOT.

Since this boot looked like it came from a different vendor, I have to assume its me.

I can't believe it. It seems like such a simple job. PIA but simple.

Looks like I am going to have to go to the mechanic have him put it in and eat some humble pie. On such a simple job! Can't believe it.

Vin

 

[radamm]

You must be worse than my wife when she drove her first manual car!!! Just kidding.
Actually, I have been having the same problem with replacement parts in my field. It seems to be a crap shoot with "rubber" formulas nowadays.

 

[Gordon Raymond]

I can't tell from your pictures, but that inner boot fits in the narrow area above the breather('s). Do you have it positioned there? Are you using a narrow retaining band?
This transmission is in "R" as these pictures are taken from in back, where the boot would be pulled the most.

 

[Vintre]

Do you have it positioned there? Are you using a narrow retaining band?

Hi Gordon,

Thanks a lot for taking the pictures and posting them.

Yes, I have the boot positioned above the breathers and am using a narrow retaining band.

When I put the boot on, I put the shifter in "N" and then moved the shifter through all the gears. It didn't look like there was enough stress to rip the boot, not even close.

Thanks again,

Vin

 

[Gordon Raymond]

Then lets try this. On close examination, any chance the tear originates at a specific spot on the inside or outside where something might be touching it? Internally the shift lever fixing bolt, or externally body work?
If the shift lever fixing bolt is the wrong diameter (6 mm instead of 7 mm) or too long, it will cause damage resulting in a tear. Externally, tired engine or engine and transmission mounts conspire to allow too much engine twist under power or shifting, that may cause the boot to contact the chassis sheet metal. Finally, the bolts that hold the sheet metal outer boot fixture to the floor hump, if too long, can protrude through the body metal to contact the inner boot.
From your discussion and wonderful persistence, you can be pretty sure this problem is not JUST boot failure! Something is causing the damage that results in a tear.

 

[spiderserie4]

I used to have this on my 101 sprint which turned out that I was using the standard worm and screw clamps (albeit slim ones), which with over enthusiastic tightening exert too much AND uneven pressure and pinch the boot (mine kept tearing just where the clamp pinches it) - I finally found a simple wire clamp that solved the problem -

Check your gbox breather is also clean and free - you don't want to add to the problem with pressure building up under the boot.

 

[Vintre]

I used to have this on my 101 sprint which turned out that I was using the standard worm and screw clamps (albeit slim ones), which with over enthusiastic tightening exert too much AND uneven pressure and pinch the boot (mine kept tearing just where the clamp pinches it) - I finally found a simple wire clamp that solved the problem -

Check your gbox breather is also clean and free - you don't want to add to the problem with pressure building up under the boot.

I am using a thin gear clamp and definitely not over tightening.

The rip is not at the clamp but in the first or second fold.

How do you check the breathers?

Thanks,

Vin

 

[Gordon Raymond]

Remove them, one at a time, spray them out with Brakeclean followed by a blast of compressed air. They seldom plug up in my experience.

 

[Vintre]

Ok.

I went and bought 2 more boots, thats right 2 more. If the next one rips, I don't want to drive 45 minutes there and 45 minutes back to get another!

I took a look around and can't see how the boot gets cut, so I am going with bad luck and bad boots.

These boots don't have any markings on them, so I am guessing made by a
3rd supplier.

Here are some pictures of the ripped boot, the new boot and the most recent install. I put the boot as high on the transmission tower as I could. I was worried it was going to pop off but it didn't.








Wish me luck!

Vin

 

[Gordon Raymond]

Vin,
That appears an excellent install. Could you send me a neatly torn one (or more) for autopsy? PM if you can and I'll send you my address.

 

[spiderserie4]

Remove them, one at a time, spray them out with Brakeclean followed by a blast of compressed air. They seldom plug up in my experience.

I think you are referring to the metal discs under the boot - I actually meant check the breather was clean, mounted on the side below the boot.


One thing I wouldn't have used is that type of Jubilee clip on the boot - it pinches right under the screw bit - the original was a large thin lever/spring clamp, designed to offer even pressure all round....but those i guess are not to be found anywhere...