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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
79 fetta sprint veloce, 127k miles.
A short thread on the project—
Prep for removal
1. Jacked up the car as high as I could and put Jack stands under the hard points
2. Drained the fluid, was pretty clean in general
2.5 removed the 6 bolts holding front of triangle to body
2.75 followed manual and removed giubo bolts, exhaust, shift lever/boot, and clutch slave hose
3. Jacked up DeDion tube as high as I could, placed tools a.2.0268 under each side, put jackstands under the raised DeDion for safety.
4. Followed the manual and removed clutch — it’s heavy — then 9 fasteners on circumference of gearbox cover, and rubber mallet Off front gearbox cover. Reverse gear fell out. Got wet with more gear oil
5. Rubber mallet off intermediate flange —tool to bench
6. Measured pinion depth at +.2mm over standard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
On the bench, after measuring pinion depth at +0.2mm from 226.7, face of pinion gear incribed 191. If this is like 105 that means add .191 so being 2 over should be ok.
replaced both oil seals in gear cover
Ordered from EBSPARES- exhaust hangers, left transaxle mount, clutch slave boot, new shifter boot.
Clean up everything. What a mess
With Tx on bench, disassemble main and input shafts - 32mm nut on input shaft, the big 36mm on mainshaft after de-staking the nuts (major pain as these were staked clear to the bottom of the groove). Use impact gun to take the nuts loose
Remove 13mm 8.8 LOBO bolts holding shift forks to selector rods, push the rods out with the alfa dummy rods right behind em.
disassemble main shaft and input shaft. Input shaft had slight groove where oil seal rode on — note — can’t use speedi sleeve easily since input shaft has to pass thru it’s roller bearings - so I took shaft to my buddy’s shop threw it on the lathe, diamond cloth 5 minutes and it’s done, took off about 2 thou.
Survey the damage to the gear train!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So get a new “goetz” synchro band - I’ve used these successfully in 105/115 trans before, I mic’ed it out and checked shape, etc and put that on second gear, with new NOS dog ring. Did first gear fix with used good parts, used good synchro band. Replaced third gear synchro with OEM good used, replace 4th dog gear and synchro with good OEM used, turned 5th around . Buy good used 1/2 fork to replace this worn out one ( worn badly, badly on 2nd gear side — this is what happens when you drive with your hand on the shifter like an arm rest).
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replaced sliders 1/2 and 3/4 as teeth not sharp on 2nd gear and 4th gear sides ( both dog rings had teeth busted off). I did check the dimpled bushes on all gears and although 1 is a bit sloppy, I just didn’t have the heart to replace and size it - been there done that on 105 boxes - and this car will get light service and not be abused.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Asked a member here for a new shift rod as the “u” shape metal bracket that secures the return spring on the shifter rod was loosey Goosey in the rod - making the tang that engages the business end of the shift rods clatter around.

that’s where I am today. Waiting for some parts again. Trying for a shifter shaft bushing, good used shifter rod with tight U bracket/spring, a new top hat nut and spring for 3/4, some other minor stuff. Will I regret not replacing the bushing in 1st gear?
it’s usually not my style, but parts for 116 are hard to come by. I normally would have replaced the main and input shaft bearings but I didn’t find any, and besides, I’m big bucks into parts already!!
Will update when parts arrive
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I got the parts on Monday and finished up the geartrain. Tonight I installed the geartrain, geartrain cover, clutch assembly. I forgot to tighten down the shifter rod nut so tomorrow I drop the front of the DeDion — again — and tighten that nut to prescribed torque. I’m glad to be in Semi final reassembly and with any luck maybe I can finish this in a week or so .
I can not find torque values for the folliowing

1. the bolts securing the clutch cover to the left and right mounts
2. The big center bolt in the dedion front , vertical bolt holds the crossmember to the triangle apex
3. The bolts securing the clutch assembly to the geartrain cover
I have the factory manuals and can’t find the torques listed in there!

more to come
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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You are sure industrious, or have far too much time on your hands, lol. You've got several very nice cars there. Glad to see you are making them like new again. More involved work than I ever wanted to do on Alfas, getting a little burned out on rebuilding many Minis back in the day for members in the club.

I remember the 78 GTV we bought new in DC and drove out to Seattle. Nice car with cloth interior. Didn't keep it too long, as we ended up selling it to our dealer, buying an 81 GTV6 in replacement. More power, har har. Of course, a completely different car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
definitely not too much time on my hands! Im still working full time, play hockey once a week in 50+ league, have 2 adult kids living at home still, wife with lots of honey-dos, volunteer at local VFW once a week, etc etc. When I get going on something -- and its getting harder and harder to take that first step == I tend to go pretty robustly until its done. last night started at 6 when I got home from work and quit at 10 -- then ate dinner and showered and was in bed by 11:15.

I'm definitely eager to wrap this up and see how she drives. I'm hoping that the trans will be crisp and clean like the GTV and Spider. Assuming trans is good -- and doesnt leak -- motor is next. I need to yank it out, change cig seals, front and rear main, clean it up, and then I 'll be OK with the essential mechanicals for a while on the fetta. That 'should' (yeah right) take 2 weeks max.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finished and installed, test drove today. Feels like it did from the factory in 79 - trans is crisp, positive, as tight as any transaxle alfa and so far — no leaks back there!! Rear silencer is hitting a little on the triangle, I think I can tweak it and get some separAtion there— more to come. About $1400 in parts to refresh this transaxle — without ANY BEARINGS REPLACED- so it’s a bit more than a typical 115 box.
 
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Good work goats
I know alfa gearboxes are not new to you although from what I can gather this is your first transaxle rebuild, they are very different and also similar in many ways.
I have refreshed a few transaxles for myself and friends over the years, and I must say there is always a certain amount of satisfaction after having pulled a gearset down to it's many components then to asses worn parts and then reassemble the parts back into the gearcases then drive the car and feel how good a fresh gearbox is.
Cheers Glen.
 
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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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Great job.

When we bought our 89 Milano brand new in 90, the transaxle had far too much clearance in the diff between the pinion and ring, I guess. You could jack up a rear corner of the car and rotate a wheel a fair amount. Made for slop in the drivetrain between on and off the throttle. Didn't like that. Had to have it taken out on warranty and reshimmed. Made it better, but it has always had just a little more slop in the drivetrain than I really like. Carlo was a little afraid of making it too tight. Must have been either a Monday morning or Friday afternoon assy job at the factory, lol.

So, you learn to be a little more precise in the shifting/throttle, although everything works just fine otherwise, no problems with synchros, etc.
 

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Bob,

Glad that the TA worked out well. As I start to put more miles on Rocky and the engine comes around, I found myself thinking that the TA feel is one of the best yet. Nice and positive, but not too firm or difficult. I didn't get anywhere near as involved as you, since my goal was minimal spend - all used parts except for the seals. Just goes to show that with a little care these TAs aren't as awful as some make out (even without the iso static linkage).

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mark, the linkage on this car is now tight and crisp. Changing the shift rod (the one with the spring) returns the shifter to center nicely and it doesnt flop around like it used to. The non-iso shifting is fine as far as I am concerned, its a tiny bit more throw than my GTV and spider boxes, and I do mean tiny - 1/2 inch max.

Next up -- driveshaft and motor -- under hard braking, something is hitting the propshaft as a rotational rattle can be felt / heard. I'm thinking when the motor and driveshaft move forward under braking, something is fouling under the tunnel where the driveshaft lives. Motor will come out and get resealed as it leaks like a sieve right now. Front and rear seals, cigarette seals, pan gasket, horseshoe gasket, remove/seal all alum plugs in head, SPICA front oil seal, etc etc
 

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Next up -- driveshaft and motor -- under hard braking, something is hitting the propshaft as a rotational rattle can be felt / heard. I'm thinking when the motor and driveshaft move forward under braking, something is fouling under the tunnel where the driveshaft lives.
I had this exact problem. Especially when engine braking while going downhill. I changed the rear engine mount in the bellhousing and the front transaxle mounts. Problem gone.
 

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This might not be your problem I just thought I would mention that there is "bump stop" that protrudes from the underside of the car that limits any upward movement of the transaxle. could it be that is touching the top of the transaxle. This bump stop is adjustable from under the rear seat it has a slat head and can be raised or lowered with a screw driver.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Steering part Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It`s great that effort like your`s payoff with a successful outcome. Glad it all came together for you.
thanks RJ -- I appreciate your sage advice and guidance!
 

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This might not be your problem I just thought I would mention that there is "bump stop" that protrudes from the underside of the car that limits any upward movement of the transaxle. could it be that is touching the top of the transaxle. This bump stop is adjustable from under the rear seat it has a slat head and can be raised or lowered with a screw driver. View attachment 1740233
I’ve got the alfa tool to do it from underneath. There is a measurement in the manual for the gap spacing.
 

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Check the center muffler. If its to far back the rear donut bolts will hit on the muffler.

Also a weak or broken tail housing mount can let the tail shaft housing hit the driveshaft.
 
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