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Discussion Starter #1
PO gave me a new Trans mount with the car. I am assuming the one in it is bad. What would be the signs of a bad trans mount? The car has some issues (its an Alfa) and i want to see if they are related.

Publio
 

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1966-2013
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Some signs the mount may be bad:

Sagging at the cross member (lower portion of mount housing should be around 1/2" or more from the bottom of the member if mount is firm)

A lot of flex/torsion in the trans when driving (shifter moves quite a bit left or right on acceleration or deceleration. shifter may even hit the console if it's real bad)

The ability to lay under the car and shuck the rear of the trans around by hand (a good mount is pretty solid)

Rumbly noises as rear of trans settles down on the mount and transmits vibration.

Prolly more than those, but a start anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How hard is it to replace? Can it be done "in the garage" or will it be more involved?

Publio
 

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You can do it yourself through a couple methods:

The first is while in the car using the tool designed for it (though somewhere on the board is an alternate means of doing the same thing without it) and removing the mount that goes to the frame.

You put the new trans bush next to the old and one presses the other out.

The other 'can' be done in car, but is easier with the trans out:

Remove the mount plate and burn the center out of the rubber bushing then hacksaw (making very sure you cut none of the aluminum trans housing) the outer portion of the mount to remove the rest of it.

Freeze the new mount for an hour or so and when ready, heat up the trans housing with a propane torch til spit sizzles off it (highly calibrated temperature testing means) and literally slip the frozen mount in place.

*if the trans is out, you could also use a press to remove and install the stuff.


No matter what method you use, make sure the mount is orientated correctly to the trans otherwise you'll have some serious problems getting it back together and functioning correctly. (again, there is a pic of the orientation here somewhere that can be found with the search)
 

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I made up an extractor, based on a threaded rod/bolt concept. I used a machined brass ram and a plastic receiver.

I was able to extract the old support without burning.

I was able to install the new one without heating, but I did cool the new one.

Using a new support bushing to press out the old, work fine if the trans is out, but you can not do it on the car.

I can give you more detail if you like (can't do pictures) and if you are not in a terrible hurry could send you my "tool" on loan for the postage. But I am on the US border (Michigan), in Canada, so could not easily ship to you for a week or two.

Best regards, Elio
 

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Elio Comello said:
I made up an extractor, based on a threaded rod/bolt concept. I used a machined brass ram and a plastic receiver.

I was able to extract the old support without burning.

I was able to install the new one without heating, but I did cool the new one.

Using a new support bushing to press out the old, work fine if the trans is out, but you can not do it on the car.

I can give you more detail if you like (can't do pictures) and if you are not in a terrible hurry could send you my "tool" on loan for the postage. But I am on the US border (Michigan), in Canada, so could not easily ship to you for a week or two.

Best regards, Elio
Elio, if you could provide all of us with the specs and materials for your homemade extractor, that would be great. That kind of knowledge is valuable to me, at least.

Thanks.

Thomas
 

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What I used...

...was a pipe cap for 1.5" ID pipe and a 6" 2-Jaw gear puller.
tranny mouny extract.JPG
The pipe cap (Lowe's, Home Despot, etc) needed a 1/16th or less ground from its outer periphery and I then flattened the top and drilled a small hole to index the point of the gear puller.
pipe cap.JPG
Work from the passenger (right) side as the exhaust may interfere...ridiculously easy to push old mount right out. Installation of new one was nearly as easy, just ensure mount is perfectly aligned (freezing did help) and oriented. OBTW, The 2-jaw gear puller is available for ~$20 refundable deposit only at most discount auto part joints (Autozone). After reading previous thread on this topic, I truly feared this job, however the pipe cap made it **** near trivial.
Cheers!
 

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BattleBug said:
...was a pipe cap for 1.5" ID pipe and a 6" 2-Jaw gear puller.

...

After reading previous thread on this topic, I truly feared this job, however the pipe cap made it **** near trivial.
Cheers!
Paul, I've gotta say - you are the MAN!!!

Tried this out tonight and it worked perfectly - the pipe cap I got didn't even need to be ground down. Thanks for such a cheap, simple solution - the kind someone like me can both afford and make work!

-Jason
 

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And if you want to save yourself some effort (and your puller is long enough), you can push the new one in at the same time as you push the old one out. Worked perfectly for me.
 

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We should have a Hall of Fame post site! THANKS!!!!!! I trully work! THANKS!!!! outstanding POST!
I took the opotunity and replace the mount with the reinforcement from International but now the motor when front-down and the main pulley goes against the stabilization bar... So... I think I should agree with some other post that this tras-mount should be consider to change in conjuction with the motor mounts...

Once again! thanks!
CC
 

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Gotta love this board.

...was a pipe cap for 1.5" ID pipe and a 6" 2-Jaw gear puller.
Thanks for the posts and suggestions. I used the cap and gear puller today to do my trans mount. It worked well to get out the old mount.

I ended up jacking the front of the motor up using a jack and plywood square to lower the trans housing a little, so the puller would line up better. I also unbolted the drive shaft support.

Gear puller wasnt long enough to push the new one in with the cap, so I put the new mount in the freezer and heated the housing with a small bottle torch. Little grease and she slipped in by hand most of the way and was persuaded in the rest with a rubber mallet.

I bought the IAP trans mount reinforcements... I dont recommend them. They forced the tranny up so far, my gear shifter was hitting the console while just sitting there. I pulled them out without even driving it.

Regards,
Phil
 

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I used the same $3.29 Home Depot-sourced 1-1/2" pipe cap as well when changing my trans mount last week. But for the record, it can be easily used without the gear puller if the transmission's on the floor. Center the pipe cap, whack it with a hammer a couple of times and it's out. Can't tell you if it works while the transmission is in the car.

I also highly recommend the "freeze one, heat the other" method for new mount installation; very slick......
 

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I used the pipe cap and gear puller method, after finding it on the board. It worked great. I only cooled the new mount. A little extra spent for the gear puller is money well spent. The cheap ones don't work as well....guess that's why they're cheap.
 

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Paul, et al:

I used this method and with a little heat to the housing,. it worked like a charm!! Many thanks and FWIW.... I became a gold member tonight for this and many other valuable tips I have received from this forum. It is truly an invaluable resource if you own an Alfa.

I noticed the (2) rubber donuts on the adjacent "hanger" bracket near the rear mount. As I am trying to replace most, if not all, of the original rubber bushings on my 88 Spider while I am into it, I looked in IAP catalog but don't see them listed. Any info on them? Do I need to replace? Are they available and where?
Thanks
 

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You mean these?


They're worth replacing if they've got the rot, oil contamination, whatever as they not only help support the exhaust, the bracket helps keep the exhaust in line with the engine so that joints don't open up over time due to engine torque.

EG: without them, you'll be tightening the exhaust manifold to head nuts much more frequently.
 
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