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Discussion Starter #1
A few of you might recall me posting once or twice over the past year and a half or so about my poor '83 with the transmission problem. I had a heck of a time accessing all the tranny bolts, finally got them all off, thanks in large part to various tips and info I read on the boards here. I still couldn't get the input shaft unstuck from the clutch plate. Until yesterday.....

I have to say, I must be one of the luckiest, most blessed guys in the world. Yesterday my amazing, gorgeous Argentine wife got on her "rough" clothes (yep, super hot) and proceeded to tackle the Alfa with me. Together we managed to tap the tranny out of the clutch plate and remove it from the car....finally!!!!! Tonight I started tearing into the tranny and she once again lended assistance...I am so lucky! Anyways, I see basically my problem, and a few other wear issues I need to address.

The tranny had gotten stuck in 1st gear. As it turns out, the bolt holding the 1st/2nd gear shift fork to the roller pushrod simply sheared off. It also looks like the little bracket that goes around the pushrod here (that the bolt passes through) is damaged, so I need a new one of those. I don't see that bracket on IAP, just the major components like synchros and quadrants etc. Any idea where I might find it? Is it even necessary? Looks like I should be able to just use a new bolt and the existing square shaped nut, perhaps the bracket is just for installation ease?

While I'm in here, I want to do a general refresh. I recall 2nd gear grinding quite a bit, and 3rd grinding a little sometimes too. 1st also did some grinding when downshifting, unless I shifted particularly slow. As I understand it, there are two "quadrants" in the tranny, both of which should be replaced? Also, I'm thinking of switching to all moly synchros, is this a good move in general? The car is pretty much street only, no racing.

Thanks!

Matt
 

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There are a couple of trans threads in this forum and the GTV forum as well as the trans forum.

First doesn't have a syncro so it will grind if you downshift. At a stop you need to touch 3rd first before shifting into first.

All of the dog gears are the same. It's very common to move 5th, which gets very little use, to the 2nd position. Then inspect 4th and see if it will be better then 3rd. Kind of mix and match to get the best sets in the lowest gears.

The syncro sleeve only uses on side for each gear so they can be flipped over.

Use the Red-Line oil in the trans as this is not so slippery that the actual syncros don't work.

If the clutch pivot has not been changed, then do it now while the car is apart. I just had this issue this past weekend and it make the trans work much better. The clutch was obviously dragging for a long time giving us grinds in 2nd and 3rd. Now the grinds in 2nd are 50% less and 3rd is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hehe, we were a little too busy for pics, so sorry. :)

Man, great tips, I will definitely replace the clutch pivot....I see now how it could wear down a lot (I'm learning a bunch with this). The other day I had an "ah ha!" moment where the entire transmission process just sorta clicked, now I get it! Exciting, and I think I can make more effective repairs/improvements now.

I'm thinking of just replacing the dog gears for 2nd, I'd like to keep my nice smooth 5th gear shifting (although the 2nd gear teeth don't look all that worn really). So I can actually remove each syncro ring/sleeve and simply turn it around, correct? But the sleeve appears to use both surfaces, since it moves back or forward depending on whether you're going to 3rd or 4th. 1st and 2nd could of course be flipped since 1st has no syncro. Or are you referring to the smaller ring inside the syncro?

You have reaffirmed my decision to use Red Line, I've heard good things about it in the past. I may even still have a couple bottles that I bought like 3 years ago and never got around to using.

I am so excited after getting the tranny apart and actually figuring it all out (the Alfa manual and posts from this board were immensely helpful). Honestly, it's actually not as difficult and complex inside as I expected. The only thing I'm not clear on is just how the gears and syncros are mounted to the input and output shafts, but that's just a matter of a little more research.

I can't wait to get her back on the road again!!! :D
 

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...First doesn't have a syncro so it will grind if you downshift. At a stop you need to touch 3rd first before shifting into first.
Not quite right. It syncs just fine on a down shift from 2nd to 1st. It's the "upshift" from neutral to 1st that grunches. See the thread on "First Gear Fix" to solve this issue.

All of the dog gears are the same. It's very common to move 5th, which gets very little use, to the 2nd position. Then inspect 4th and see if it will be better then 3rd. Kind of mix and match to get the best sets in the lowest gears.
Also not quite right. The first gear dog is different - it has a slot for the one-way sync (again see "First Gear Fix". The good news is that if you replace this with a good dog set from any other gear, the problem goes away. You can get some good used dog gears from APE.

The syncro sleeve only uses on side for each gear so they can be flipped over.
If you mean the shift sleeve, (carried by the shift forks), each sleeve shifts two gears. If you mean the Molly ring on the gear itself, they can be flipped, but they really do wear very even.

Use the Red-Line oil in the trans as this is not so slippery that the actual syncros don't work.
Lots of BBers like Red Line. Lots prefer the original spec Shell Spirax. Choice of trans gear oil is very important in how well the tx works!

Robert
 
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