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Discussion Starter #21
thanks everyone. We did a comp test earlier and the results were all 200+. We also measured the valve clearances and they were all right to spec. Keep in mind this car has 20.000 Kms. We have the engine at TDC already. We will move the cams back, put it all together and give it a go. I will update.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update. We’ve ordered and received the parts. We went with the mechanical tensioner. It looks like two mods need to be done block an oil return and remove that long ugly shoulder bolt. How do we remove that bolt? Help please!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Alfisti I really need help on how to remove that long bolt. We’ve tried double nutting it to no avail. Also a set of visegrips no luck there. Any help?
 

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Apply heat, expand that aluminum. I also have used Kroil penetrant for a long time, with great results. Rarely, when vise grips fail, I've used a small pipe wrench to break things loose. But get it hot first! The last thing you want is to break it off in the block.
 

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The nut on the end of the cam pulley is 22mm, you can put a wrench on it to tweak its position.
BTW, the "tractor sound" could also be a stuck/bent valve. Once you have the timing belt replaced, might be a good idea to check the valve clearances, and maybe do compression/leakdown if the sound persists.
When mine ingested a bit of metal that I assume had been long ago lodges somewhere in the intake system, it made a glorious "tractor" racket. Intake valve #1 was jammed open and was colliding with the piston. THAT was a lot of work for such a tiny piece of metal.
 

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It is threaded into the face of the block. It is drilled internally to supply engine oil pressure to the original oil-fed tensioner/detensioner.
Did you buy the modification kit or just the mechanical tensioner? You will need to close that hole.
In the kit there are 2 or 3 bits you will need
 
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