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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I would like to know the torque specs on the flywheel bolts and if there is a pattern. Second I have the car disc CD which will not run on my computer which ths XP for and operating system. Any ideas ?
As always thanks for your help
 

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83 ft lb, or 113 N m, plus green (wicking) LocTite applied after torque to spec. This is for the 12V engine from page 01-38 of the manual. I see no pattern specified but there are 8 (eight) of the bolts, so if you skip to the third bolt after each one, you'll get all around evenly with no missed bolts: 1-4-7-2-5-8-3-6

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #4
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT !! I have yet to post a question with out ever getting the CORRECT information. With out you guys it would be imposible to own and Maintain a `64

You sayed to use greean lock-tight I have red will that do ?
 

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The red stuff is heat to release. The green is thin and wicks into the threads after application as a means of limiting the amount that goes into the hole. I could not second guess the specification. I just bought some of the green stuff. You want 1) the bolts to stay put until you say otherwise, and 2) the bolts to be removable without "firing up" the heat wrench when you do say otherwise. It's up to you how you want to do this.

Michael
 

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I compromise and use blue. Green seems to be for installing bearings in things like GTV6 and Milano Clutch housing on rear tranny configuration to prevent outer housing of bearing from spinning in aluminum housing. It seems to be a problem with aluminum housing as I had to use up my spare GTV6 magnesium housings to fix a couple Milanos some years back.

Green or blue should be fine but believe me I got in some serious trouble using red on a F-14 Tomcat hydraulic aluminum filter module even though overhaul manual specified Red loctite years ago as there is no getting parts apart the next time with out destroying something if aluminum. Steel parts maybe more forgiving but I would stay away from Red.
 

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Never wanting the flywheel to come loose, I use Red Loctite. You can used heat, or enough torque to break the bolts loose. Having the 1000 ft lb impact really does come in handy - especially when working on cars from the rust belt.
 

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The green is intended to be applied to the open edge of the split lock-washer and a certain amount, governed by the materials properties, will wick into the threads and set. If you apply red loctite to the whole active thread length, you or the next owner _may_ have a problem later. Maybe Andrew can suggest how much red he applies and what difficulty he's had in undoing them later.

Andrew: have you had to undo at a later date the same ones you have attached with the red Loctite?

Michael
 

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There is no split washer on the flywheel bolts, unless you are thinking about the pressure plate bolts. The red loctite requires something like 250-300 ft lbs of torque to break them free.

Last year, I ended up replacing my 5 year old impact with a IR 1/2 impact with 1000 ft lbs of break away torque. Most off the self 1/2 impacts will break loose red loctite. The problem is when you get a rust belt car and you are fighting loctite and corrosion. More torque does help in these situations.

Never had a bolt that we could not get out one way or another.
 

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You are indeed correct on the split washer. I was thinking of the pressure plate bolts. I can't remember seeing any particular washer on the flywheel bolts, but the green loctite is designed to wick into the threads and I inferred that this was the way the delivery of locking compound was controlled. I think I've exhausted my questions and thoughts on the topic, plus a bit more. I appreciate your answers on removal torque. I have only hand tools at my disposal, except for sander and drill. Sometimes it's a limitation.

Michael
 

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I have used red Loctite on these and they are a workout to remove but, I did it with only my Craftsman 2 ft breaker bar. No heat needed or impact. These are large bolts with a good sized head so they come out without too much trouble even with red.
Charles
 

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My original compressor was a cheaper craftsman unit and my impact was a $40 Harbour freight special. You can always buy a electric impact or even a cordless unit. I broke down last year and bought the Snap-on cordless impact because I was tired of getting to the track on somewhere else without air and having to change tires.
 
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