Alfa Romeo Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Any tips on how to replace the front pod that the top suspension arm bolts to, mine has rust holes in lower part, I was thinking to cut out the rust and weld in new metal but it might be better/ easier to replace the complete pod, anyone done this? I’m not sure how the right vertical edge fits to car is it welded to inner wing?
This one
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
I repaired mine, saved me a lot of time fiddling around getting (keeping) the geometry correct. It indeed welds to the inner wing (the outer skin of it). I also took the opportunity to shave the pressed flange and weld in a flat strip. Much less bloodshed that way when working on exhaust manifold, starter, engine mounts and other stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
On closer inspection I can see it’s rusted out on the cross member inside the pod, I’m going to have to remove it to repair this area, was thinking to make a locating brace picking up on the other top arm bolt so it goes back in exactly same position
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,643 Posts
Piece of cake to remove and replace. Make the locating jig as you have already suggested and then stop thinking so much about it and put a cutting disc in your 6" grinder and get cutting.

Thinking is useful but also helps with procrastination ...
Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Took your advise Pete, did not take too long had to cut the welds with a dremal on wheel arch side before splitting with a chisel
90% of the bracket was solid so although rusty probably still strong, inside cavity looks to be ok have a little bit of repair to do inside the wheel arch
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Two questions
The new bracket has a flange all the way along the bottom edge both sides, I can’t see any way to remove the metal or make a gap to get this flange through inner and outer skins, did you cut it off just leaving it where it shows in the engine bay?

You can see the top of the cross member is rusted out and I can see rubber 9think it’s the spring seat, what’s it supposed to look like? Do I just weld in new metal so there is a solid floor to the pocket ?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
52 Posts
Piece of cake to remove and replace. Make the locating jig as you have already suggested and then stop thinking so much about it and put a cutting disc in your 6" grinder and get cutting.

Thinking is useful but also helps with procrastination ...
Pete
Thinking is generally a good thing, over thinking is generally not a good thing. Make a plan in your head and carry it out. If something goes wrong with the plan, make your plan B and proceed.

Getting the geometry is important here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Unless the new part is not accurately made as long as the flanges are sitting on the cross member and the jig positions it correct space from the other side I would imagine geometry ok, plus I have adjustable top arm
If I’m over simplifying this let me know before I **** it up
If anyone has photos of what it should look like under the pocket/pod I’d be grateful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,643 Posts
I think the top of the cross member in that pocket is doing nothing, so yes just weld in a patch to make it look pretty.

And then trim the flange, if necessary, of new piece and weld in. Done, and a good job too.
Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Top suspension arm Inter mount

Hi alfamale 62
I bump in to the same problem under restoration of my car.
It was a point i dident expect to bump in to, as i have seen this as a solid point of the car.
I cuttet in from the outside, to have a good chance to repair the frontbridge below the Ear, i have installed ajustble top arms to compensate for eventuel misalignment, but the ears is quite fixed in position to the inderving.
I attach a couple of pictures, there indicates what you Can bump in to.
The frontbridge and a reinforcement inside the inderwing was don in 2 mm plate, som work, but some weekends and it ended up to be ok.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Here as pictures of the repair.
There is work in the repair, but after but upon completion I am glad I decided not to skip where the ferment was lowest.
You should be aware that the reinforcement plate is the one that should be best secured to the frontbridge and the reinforcements between the two innerwings, and subsequently the cover plate must be secured with many point welds, to ensure good contact and strength between the two plates.
Securing the plates in between is important, but especially around the shock absorber tower the strength is important.
As you can see from the one photo I have had to make a new backplate for the shock absorber tower, which is difficult to get off without accepting the backplate to be removed.
There were a couple of weekends of work on both sides, but I ended up being happy about the choice, especially because the frontbridge was going to get repaired in a good way.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks that’s a big help, I think I only need to remove around 30mm of the shock mount as the metal is quite solid in this area, forward of the suspension pocket is another matter, I also plan to fully weld around edge and puddle weld the two skins together, was not planning on this work but I’d rather do it once properly and know that part is good
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top