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Discussion Starter #1
Over the past few days, I've taken several stabs and removing the crankshaft pulley bolt from my 1300 TI, whose engine is in the car. It's surprising how difficult it is to loosen the bolt, considering that the torque spec is something like 87 lb/ft... While I don't have an impact wrench, I do have a very nice cheater bar, and imagine that if I could prevent the crankshaft from turning, that I could loosen the bolt. Does anyone have any tips on how to prevent the crank from rotating while trying to twist the bolt loose?

Ciao and grazie,
AA
 

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1) Chock wheels, set handbrake, transmission in 4th gear.

B) Prop wrench against something on the left side of the engine bay (left side as viewed from the driver's seat). Engage starter motor and bolt spins right off. Sounds scary but I've done it that way on many cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1) Chock wheels, set handbrake, transmission in 4th gear.

B) Prop wrench against something on the left side of the engine bay (left side as viewed from the driver's seat). Engage starter motor and bolt spins right off. Sounds scary but I've done it that way on many cars.
As
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks GHNL. I hesitate to try this approach. With my luck, it would turn the wrench into a projectile. Is there a way to immobilize the crank, somehow?
 

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Try option 1 (those were supposed to be seen as two options...). With the transmission in 4th gear you're using the whole weight of the car to prevent the engine from turning. If you were to try it in first gear your wrench would have the gearing of the transmission helping to move the car.

Any idea if a previous mechanic used locktight on the bolt threads? Blue locktight usually comes off with normal hand tools. But red locktight needs heat to loosen the bond.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Aha - thanks for the clarification. I tried the 4th gear/handbrake combo with no success. The loctite question is a good one. I don't know if or when the crankshaft pulley bolt was removed previously, and what might have been used in the way of a threadlocker.

Time for a blowtorch?
 

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How long is your cheater bar? I needed a four footer to break loose that bolt on a Spider at Pick'n'Pull. Even then it was still tough.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's probably 30" or so. The odd thing is that even with the handbrake and in 4th gear, the engine turns somewhat. Could this be due to clutch slippage?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, Triz. All signs seem to be pointing to an impact wrench...which I've been avoiding buying based on the principle that it shouldn't cost $200 to undo a bolt...a principle that seems increasingly misguided. The whole point of this exercise was to replace the crankshaft seal in the hopes of reducing oil seepage. Time to bite the bullet. I'm thinking Milwaukee's 1/2" stubby impact wrench -- the M12 I think it's called -- might do the trick.
 

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can't you just rent a good impact driver from one of the big chain shops, like home depot or something? Might have to remove the rad to get it in there...
you'd need an electric one unless you have an air compressor.
 

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Thanks, Triz. All signs seem to be pointing to an impact wrench...which I've been avoiding buying based on the principle that it shouldn't cost $200 to undo a bolt...a principle that seems increasingly misguided.

Go to a tool-rental store and rent an 1/2 inch electric impact wrench. I'd also suggest that you use a suitable impact socket or else run the risk of ruining a regular socket. The commercial quality impact wrenches the commercial rental stores sell tend to be quite a bit more robust than what you'll find elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the advice on this. Impact wrench it is, then onto the delights of removing the old seal.
 

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If the nut is heated with a propaine torch for 20- 30 seconds, that will loosen the locktight and that may make it easier to remove the nut as well . Good luck
 

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Thanks, Triz. All signs seem to be pointing to an impact wrench...which I've been avoiding buying based on the principle that it shouldn't cost $200 to undo a bolt...a principle that seems increasingly misguided. The whole point of this exercise was to replace the crankshaft seal in the hopes of reducing oil seepage. Time to bite the bullet. I'm thinking Milwaukee's 1/2" stubby impact wrench -- the M12 I think it's called -- might do the trick.
1/2 inch corded Impact is 44.00 from Harbor Freight FYI. It will do the job just fine. But you'll have to remove the radiator to get the beast in.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If the nut is heated with a propaine torch for 20- 30 seconds, that will loosen the locktight and that may make it easier to remove the nut as well . Good luck
An update. I just got an impact wrench with 250 lb/ft of nut-busting torque. An exciting tool in principle, which did absolutely nothing to budge the bolt. I haven't tried heating the nut with a torch, and have a question regarding that. Is it safe to do that if the engine's in the car, attached to fuel lines, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, Eric. Another update. Turns out the RPM on the impact wrench was adjustable. I cranked it up and the nut spun right off. The tool in question is the Milwaukee M12 1/2" stubby. Well worth the $200. If anyone in the San Francisco area is struggling with the same job, I'm happy to help.
 
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