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1966-2013
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What's the extra little tick mark almost dead center on each journal cap? Someone do a cam change at some point and re-mark the caps for reference?

Certainly the intake is off by quite a bit to the retarded side which could certainly lead to the compression numbers your seeing. (you did have the throttle WFO when you tested, correct? That'll read low too if you didn't)

Another thing to confirm is that the engine is at TDC when the pointer says TDC. (never take it for granted the pointer is correct)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WFO? Wide full open? Yes the no 1 cylinder was top dead center. Before testing the compression I tried starting it to no avail. The spark is there although not that strong, but I got a only a cough a couple of times through out quite a bit of trying.
 

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Is the chain tensioner tight?
Is the distributor lined up correctly? Rotor to #1 when other timing marks are as pictured except intake is off too much.

What year/engine is this? Spica? Carb? Bosch?
 

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1966-2013
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WFO: Wide F....... Yeah, , nevermind, wide full open works :)

Based on the pix, I'm gonna throw a wild guess and say late Spica or carb'd engine, or S3/S4 that's been cam swapped to earlier cams. (no VVT on intake)

I could be mistaken, but it also looks like there's kind of an odd wear pattern on the intake cam bucket for #1. (not very circular looking)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1979 european engine with the cams that were installed when I got it. Head is off a spica car but I've got Dellortos. Chain is tight. If I move the intake cam it will be off as bad in the other direction. I guess it's worth a shot. I'll check the rotor too.
Thanks
 

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Richard Jemison
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7,606 Posts
Cam timing

1979 european engine with the cams that were installed when I got it. Head is off a spica car but I've got Dellortos. Chain is tight. If I move the intake cam it will be off as bad in the other direction. I guess it's worth a shot. I'll check the rotor too.
Thanks
You do know how to change the cam timing by adjusting the sprockets, don`t you?:confused:
The cams appear to be C&B 48s which are 12mm lift. If your cam marks are at 102 degrees, set the cams so that the cam mark is on the outer point of the "V" on the towers (leftside on exhaust, right side on intake)
The idea is to set them at 104 degrees. BUT, with a Spica head the marks must be checked as they were all over the place dependant on year of mfg.
Rj
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ahh its getting complicated! The cams were on the car before. the only change was the head. That can throw it, huh? Are there degree marks on the cams/ sprockets them selves?
 

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Can you compare where the mark were on the old head with where they are the "new" one?
 

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I would go back to square one and start all over.

First: find #1 TDC; it may not be exactly at the P pointer.
Two: ensure #1 is on compression stroke (no valves opening)
Three: slacken the timing chain just a bit and lock
Four: loosen cam sprockets from cams a bit. Undo the big 22mm nut, and the small 8mm-head vernier bolt. This will require undoing the cam caps some to let the cam rise up to fit new lock tabs to the 22mm nuts.
Five: once the sprockets can rotate separately from the cams, keeping the crankshaft at TDC, rotate the cams til the marks the line up. The sprockets and the chain and crankshaft should not move.
Six: tighten up the cam chain a bit, after having tightened down the 22mm nuts just snug.
Seven: find the vernier holes that line up and insert the 8mm head bolt and nut hand-tight.
Eight: tighten down the 22mm nuts more snugly.
Nine: adjuste the cam chain fully tight.
Ten: Turn the engine over by hand several revolutions, then bring to the marks in the forward direction and see how the line up. If all's OK, tighten everything down fully, bend the lock tabs, check the chain again.
Eleven: put cam cover back on. Turn engine over on starter a few times to make sure it's OK, then put plugs in and fire it up.

Keep the timing chain cavity covered with rags, etc, to keep from dropping anything in.

Andrew

Email me if you have further questions. I just did this on my Berlina Friday.
 

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Richard Jemison
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cam timing

Five: once the sprockets can rotate separately from the cams, keeping the crankshaft at TDC, rotate the cams til the marks the line up. The sprockets and the chain and crankshaft should not move.
Six: tighten up the cam chain a bit, after having tightened down the 22mm nuts just snug.
Seven: find the vernier holes that line up and insert the 8mm head bolt and nut hand-tight.
Eight: tighten down the 22mm nuts more snugly.
Very good instructions ANDREW!

BUT....
The cams need to be timed differently from stock. So you need to know what your cam cap marks are. Spica heads reaned from 99.5 to114 cam timing settings.
What year car did the spica heads come off of???

Those cams should be timed 104 intake and 106 to 108 exhaust for best oerformance. They make a template for measuring the cam mark on the cap. You need to get one!
 
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