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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks:
My 1988 Spider is long overdue for a re-torque of the cylinder head nuts since the head-gasket was replaced some time ago. The manual directions to do so are really straightforward, (loosen each nut ONE turn, one nut at a time, in diagrammed sequence, "moisten" space between washer and top of nut with oil, torque to 65 ft/lb).

So long as I have the proper socket and torque wrench, has anyone ever encountered pitfalls or any good tips from past experience?

It looks simple...but with these cars I have learned that this can be deceptive!

Thanks for contenting my suspicious mind!

Best

Andy
 

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If one is re-torquing a recently installed head, then follow those directions. If re-torquing a head installed a long time ago, then I would modify the instructions to say, "remove nut, clean threads, apply a drop of oil then re-torque" (one at a time - do not remove them all at one time!).

Note also that the flat washer is intended to seal against coolant leaks where the head stud passes through the cooling jacket. Make sure both the washer and the surface where it sits on the head are smooth & flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great advice! Two more quick questions:
1. If, on the cold engine, and doing it one-at-a-time, by taking the bolt all the way out to clean the threads is there more risk of mixing/contaminating the coolant and oil fluids, (or is there any risk at all when done properly?)
2. Do nuts require a 19 or 20mm socket, (or different?)

thanks much!
 

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There shouldn't be any risk of intermixing oil/coolant. There is a small risk of coolant leak from around the head stud when the nut/washer is removed. One trick is to remove the radiator cap, squeeze the top hose, re-installl the radiaotr cap then relase the hose. In theory this puts the cooling system under a slight negative pressure. Maybe.

IIRC, 19mm is the size. I prefer to use 6 point sockets - less likely to round over the nuts.
 
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