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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
74 Spyder I have seen (and used) the good tips on removing the crank nut. Any tips on getting this nut tight enough for torque ? And, would using blue or red loctite be a good idea?
Thanks in advance
 

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Is the engine in the car? If so chock the wheels, apply the handbrake and put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear.

If the engine is out of the car then a flywheel locking device can be used or, if the sump is off, a block of wood between a crank throw and the block will keep it from turning. Don't rip the engine off your mounting stand however!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine is in car; thanks! Loctite?
 

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I'm not sure how you got the nut off, but I used a 4ft breaker bar (pipe from Home Depot) to tighten it back on.

Couldn't have tighten it without it.

I also put the car in 5th and chocked the wheels as the car will pull forward.

Sorry, can't comment on the loctite. Mine was such a bear to get off, I couldn't bear the thought of putting Loctite on.

Vin
 

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The Twin Spark and I think other newer motors do not have the locking washer and they use Loctite

It is a large size pain to get it off unless you can get at it with an air gun .

So if you can, use the lock washer and no loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mine does not have the locking tab on the washer. I did have to use an air gun to get it off; at about 110 lbs pressure on the compressor.
 

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Did you see the remnants of Locktite ?

If you heat the nut up with a propane torch until it smokes it will come off much easier .

I rarely use my air wrench but it sure comes in handy sometimes.

If you are not going to get a loch washer use RED on the nut .That and 137.9 to 143.8 ft . lb.(from Engine Overhaul Manual 82 to 91) That should hold it on .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I chocked the wheels, put the car in 5th gear; used a little bit of red Loctite (no lock tab on my washer), applied some oil between the washer and nut and torqued to 140. Thanks everyone!
 
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