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Discussion Starter #1
I've used the search engine here but can't come up with a tie rod removal tool that I can get from Napa, Advanced, etc. Any recommendations?
 

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autozone has one that works well on our cars, they'll loan you one for $40 deposit.
 

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Just did mine this weekend.
Autozone has a tie rod removal fork for $10. You will need a section of pipe for leverage though.
 

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I bought a whole bunch of different tYpes but the only one that really worked was For me the harbor freight one that Darren shows above.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I'll give the harbor freight one a try......Bob
 

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Just did mine this weekend.
Autozone has a tie rod removal fork for $10. You will need a section of pipe for leverage though.

A piece of pipe???

You're supposed to pound it in and wedge the part out, not pry it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
FYI: The Harbor Freight tool is called a "3/4" forged ball point joint separator" SKU 99849 $15.99
 

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Leverage worked for me. Harbor freight tool works on leverage. Problem with pounding on end of pickle fork while doing tie rods is everything is moving. Even if you turn the wheels to the stops, all the other knuckles will bounce.
 

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Harbor Freight and IAP tools work on pressure.
Yes, there's leverage at the fulcrum of the tool itself, but the force applied to the joint coupling is compressive.
The pickle fork, when properly used, works on expansive force.
As to the other joints all moving when working on one, that would be an improper angle of attack issue.

Hope you didn't bend any control arms applying leverage where it shouldn't be applied.
 

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When using a pickle fork, it's likely you'll wreck the grease boot of the ball joint, which is ok if you plan on replacing it. Otherwise use a compressive force tool.
 

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Hello:
I purchased and used the Harbor Freight tool in Post #3 on our 1985 Spider and it worked perfectly on all ball joints and tie rods. Caution should be used as most of my separations were rather violent so you should use safety goggles and maybe next time I will wrap a cloth around the assembly to limit the movement. I found it was best to tighten up the tool and pop the joint with a hammer; if it did not separate then tighten some more and repeat until it separated. Tried using heat and the IAP tool before and did not work.

Regards and thanks for recommending this tool,
Warren
 
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