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Discussion Starter #181
They fit the Bosch dizzy np.
Dunno about the pulley....it's what came on the wp when i replaced it years ago. The back side looked like new....using distilled water.
Will double check the oil pump when the dist comes out to paint the clamp and replace the 2 O rings.
BTW got the nuts etc!
 
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Discussion Starter #182
1638756


1638757


The dist is 180 out so the wires for the pointless ignition, an Allison unit from late 70s come out the back, where the condenser used to be.
Hard to believe its been working all these years with no maintenance.
The Nippon Denso alt has been a good simple upgrade.
 
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Discussion Starter #183
Is the PMS line on the flywheel straight up towards the head or down towards the sump?. The manual shows down. Naturally with #1 @ TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Can't find the washers under the acorn head nuts!
New ones won't arrive till Thursday.
So we are on hold till then.
Thinking that it might be a good time to get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated in dark grey, the shop said one day turn around but now since they ran out of paint doing some other job they couldn't say.
At least it looks cool ...
1639984

1639983
 

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Discussion Starter #185
1640563


Rear main intalled then fished for the nut plates and got the flywheel on with the PMS mark as shown on the manual.
1640566


Also had to move both cam sprockets a tiny bit to get the
marks right on. Used a dial indicator to set it up.
1640568
 

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I will be replacing that thin steel plate on the back of the block with ~3 to 6mm think aluminium plate that will go down to the bottom of the block to hold the rear crank seal in and also to reduce the dependency on the cigarette seals. I will add some threaded holes near the bottom of the block so I can bolt this plate down at the bottom too.

If you pull apart any modern engine this is what they have, although this plate/casting at the back of the block holds the crankshaft seal as well. A much better design ... but ofcourse almost 70 years after this block was designed.
Pete
 
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Discussion Starter #187
Yes. A seal carrier. The crank doesn't stick out very far so it will be challenging. Are you sure there is enough room?
The car had a good white seal, compliant and not worn, i replaced it back in 2000 but of course the leak persisted. the cigs were toast after 45 yrs. Source of leak.
 
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Discussion Starter #189
I think rattle-can Ford engine hi temp. Maybe ceramic
Can't find the can.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
Went to pick up the ceramic coated ex manifold at Bullseye Coating and found the owner is into small cars. Has a suicide door 500 with the headlights in the fender, a Jolly an Isetta and an Indy car for good measure right by the front door. We got to talking and 3 hrs later he still wouldn't let me leave. Was going to give me the coating for free but i couldn't do it.
He has guy that will make the grill look like new...i think I'll try him.
My brothers and i were driven around in mom's 500, but with bug eyes. Dad had a customer with a pink Jolly and i remember going in an Isetta dad had rented.
Now just put the clutch and pp. And can put it back in the car when it comes back from paint.
Transmission will go in from the bottom.
1640921


1640922


Wasn't sure about the vc gasket from Centerline. Looks v good but has a silicone bead on one side only so i stuck it with Hylomar to the vc and let the silicone work against the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
1641055
1641056



Just curious, with clutch and pp.
 
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I will be replacing that thin steel plate on the back of the block with ~3 to 6mm think aluminium plate that will go down to the bottom of the block to hold the rear crank seal in and also to reduce the dependency on the cigarette seals. I will add some threaded holes near the bottom of the block so I can bolt this plate down at the bottom too.

If you pull apart any modern engine this is what they have, although this plate/casting at the back of the block holds the crankshaft seal as well. A much better design ... but ofcourse almost 70 years after this block was designed.
Pete
Another option: Here's an example of my GTA engines with tab cut out

1641471
 

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Yes Markivan, that is tidy, but I want to, not only hold the seal in but, reduce the dependency on the cigarette seals. My plate will be installed using gasket sealer. Thanks to you I now know where to drill and tap the rear main bearing cap.

Ultimately I'd like to get the sump extended so when it is bolted up it will seal against the end of this new plate ... meaning the cigarette seals are not really required at all
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #194
I understand the concept better now. It's a cover for the rear of the engine maybe with a small lip to retain the seal. Old Volvos would push out the seal when their pcv valves would gum up. Terrible things buried in the engine. Not a problem with these engines but the cig seals do leak after a few decades!
The paint shop is starting the rubbing process so by the end of the week they'll be done.
1641902


In the meantime DHL delivered the gas tank from CA, with new sender.

1641903


While it has a beautiful finish this Taiwan tank has no drain, not a big deal, might weld one in, but more troubling is that the filler neck opening is not parallel with the centerline of the car. We'll see how well it centers in the gas door and the elephant thingy lines up. Hate to have to cut and modify a new part.
1641904


But while waiting for tank, and after the engine work was completed, of course, i drew up an addition to the current engine stand that is meant for Alfa. Bolts between the legs.
Fusion 360 free edition while similar in concept with Solidworks is different enough that it took me 4x as long. Just hacking at it. Still needs the attachment plates with the tubes.
1641905
 

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Hey George,

If you're going to make some engine stands I'll take a half dozen if the price is reasonable
 

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Discussion Starter #196
1641997

Kidding right!
This is an addition to a regular mount i have. Here's a more complete picture.
 
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