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I took my engine and gearbox out to help with access while I did some welding on the floorpan, installed a new wiring harness and generally cleaned up the engine bay of 40+ years of oily gunk.

While the engine is out, I'm going to change the sump gaskets, cigarette seals and the T-shaped block in the lower sump in the vain hope that it won't leak quite so much.

The engine runs OK and there is nothing that particularly seems to need overhaul, but I was wondering whether there is anything I should take the opportunity to change while I have access. I was thinking of things like the water or fuel pump.

Any thoughts?
 

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engine and transmission mounts for sure, unless they look really good...nice and easy with engine out!

check front and rear crank oil seals, gearbox fr/rear oil seals, any sign of a leak there, now's the time to do it.
check clutch, throwout bearing etc is good
check reverse light switch works (it's inside the bell housing too)

probably many more things to check:)
 

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Thanks Spiderserie4. Engine and transmission mounts are in good condition, only a couple of years old and I did the clutch and reverse switch a few months ago. I'll have a good look at the front and rear oil seals
 

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I would install a petcock in the block drain on the exhaust side near #4 out let.
 

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I'm going to change the sump gaskets, cigarette seals and the T-shaped block in the lower sump .... I'll have a good look at the front and rear oil seals
If you have oil leakage from the rear crankshaft area, and are going to the trouble of changing the cigarette seals, then why wouldn't you just automatically change the rear crankshaft seal? And what will having a "good look" at a seal show, especially if that area is all oily? It's pretty hard to distinguish whether the oil is coming through the cigarette seals or the rear main - just change them all.

I was wondering whether there is anything I should take the opportunity to change while I have access. I was thinking of things like the water or fuel pump.
When you have the front crankshaft pulley off to replace the front main seal, it will be easy to replace the water pump. Replacing a water pump on an assembled engine, in the car, is certainly possible, but kind of a pain. So unless the pump is close to new, I'd do it at this time.
 

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Replace your throttle link bushings and grommet.
that's a good one! Certainly worth checking, especially the bush at the end of the throttle rod....doing that with engine in is nigh on impossible
 

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Crank seals for sure and rebuild/replace water pump..tach drive and fuel pump seals, drop the pan and clean out there sludge ..
 

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Having just finished doing this work on my '66 Duetto, with a full engine rebuild. You may want to consider replacing all the rubber firewall grommets and the brake line grommets that go through the inner fenders (the brake line grommet also serves as a lower air filter mount for the Round tails). The tach sender would not come out of my 35+ year old water pump so I resealed it with Ultra Grey and reused it.

Rather than using the rubber cigarette seals on the rear main, I would suggest you use Ultra Black (or Grey) and throw those 'shrinking' rubber, leak causing, seals away!

Franks videos were helpful to me (you can fast forward to 7 minutes in the first video and see just how to delete the cigarette seals with Ultra Black:


You can do the 'nose seal' of your differential anytime. It is not a big job but if it is old, it is probably leaking. I was surprised how easy it was to replace, once I finally decided to do it. CA has the seals and a special $60 tool to remove the nut, mine was only finger tight. Some are very tight and require an impact wrench, which CA does not advise using with their tool...

Mark
 

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Fuel Hoses. If you have EFI, for sure get the short little lines from the rail to the injectors.
Also the spaghetti hose from the OVS down to the sump.

David O'D
Laguna CA
 

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engine and transmission mounts for sure, unless they look really good...nice and easy with engine out!

check front and rear crank oil seals, gearbox fr/rear oil seals, any sign of a leak there, now's the time to do it.
check clutch, throwout bearing etc is good
check reverse light switch works (it's inside the bell housing too)

probably many more things to check:)
check the driveshaft too: carrier bearing and u-joint. With the engine out you might as well replace all the hoses around the intake and the 4 hoses between manifolds. MUCH easier out of the car! New water pump wouldn’t hurt. I did it and then went out and got a bunch of stainless nuts /bolts and new spring washers.
 

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you're probably wishing you never asked now......it's turning into a full refurbishment:)

but if the upper control arm bushes need replacement, it is certainly easier with the engine out to get at the big bolts! (certainly on the S3/S4 spiders with all the inlet stuff, power steering and what have you in the way.....maybe your S2 is easier)

engine bay.jpg
 

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you're probably wishing you never asked now......it's turning into a full refurbishment:)
Oh but what a great adventure it will be!

Good luck,

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #17
An adventure indeed - and to think that all I was trying to do was weld the driver's floorpan!

I'll look at the hoses and drive shaft. I was going to do the LH upper control arm bush anyway - I had intended changing both soon after I bought the car about 5 years ago, but couldn't get any leverage on the LH bolt. Now is the ideal time to do it.

I've not started on the engine yet, but the new loom is in and engine bay is scrubbed clean: I'm looking forward to working on the car without getting covered in muck every time I go near it!
 

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This lets you play with camber ... not much more than fixed length
 
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