[Retired CWO5]

Now that winter is upon us in Maine - I'm all set to pull the drivetrain from my '88. It only has 62K miles but the compression is down (130psi) so I picked up a rebuild kit from Spruell Motorsport and found a local (reputable) high-perf machine shop that will do the headwork while I redo the lower end. Will also be replacing the synchros in the tranny along with installing a synchro set-up for first gear as described elsewhere in this forum (have a good donor trans). After the engine/tranny work is done, will be replacing all the suspension bushings and joints along with springs and shocks then on to redoing the brakes (replacing the rotors, hoses, and rebuilding calipers and master cylinder). When all that is done - will reupholster the seats and freshen the interior. Goal is to done so I can get it on the road by the time the ice melts on the lakes.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Save the engine rebuild for last as when you complete that it's go time. Good luck

Thanks - need top get the head in soon as the shops up here get slammed over the winter.

 

[Retired CWO5]

good luck !!! I look forward to the endresult!

my restoration spider is off to the paintshop in a few days.

View attachment 1759359

Sweet! I was very fortunate that mine was a Florida car and garage kept most of it's life so the paint is still decent with hardly any rust at all (a few surface spots underneath which will be addressed). Once done with the mechanics I'll be buff her out.

 

[Retired CWO5]

that is rare!
My alfa has been sitting under a carport in sunny california. No rust at all. Only the sun damaged the paint. Imported her to the Netherlands. The spider is very rare over here. They have almost all perished.

are you going for injection or carbs?

Going to keep her injected - she ran great prior to tearing down. Bought a rusted out parts car that I stripped down last week - the drive train only had 58K miles so I have plenty of spare parts for the injection unit if needed.

 

[Retired CWO5]

And out she comes ....

 

[Retired CWO5]

Used a 2" wide 1/4" thick piece of angle iron to extend my lift reach so it was no where near the nose of the car. Worked like a champ.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Thanks. Got a great deal on the lift but knew it would be tight so I found where guys with Vettes were building extensions to accommodate the long nose the Vettes have. Figured if it would work with s V-8 it would work with our little 4's. Just don't extend past the ends of the front outriggers and there's no instability issues.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Alternated feeding a rope into the head and worked it between #1 and #4 cylinder till it started coming loose then kept working it up a little, then back down.... Spray with PB Blaster, up a little more then down. Finally she lifted right off.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Are you sure about that?
View attachment 1759976

Yeah - got it from the second owner who showed me enough old registrations to confirm the mileage. The rust is because he used it as a primary vehicle for awhile and the winters up here eat cars up.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Took a 4' cheater bar to break loose the crank nut (yes, I straightened the tab)

 

[Retired CWO5]

No ridge at the top of the bore.... This supports the documented 62k miles.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Head is off at the machine shop for new valves and guides plus some cleaning up. Got a couple water pump studs that need replacing.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Once I finish breaking her down - the block, pan, and timing cover are off to get deep cleaned. Always a pain in the butt cleaning gasket material off aluminum....

 

[Retired CWO5]

Got the engine taken down. Used a drift punch to walk out the sleeves. All parts still measure within original specs. Taking block, timing cover, and oil pans in to get deep cleaned Monday.

 

[Retired CWO5]

Oh boy. It all seems very familiair.

My cylinderhead Will also be rebuilt. I am always afraid I Will end up with spare nuts and bolts.

Lots of ziplock bags, a sharpie, and pictures works for me...

 

[Retired CWO5]

Those eraser type gasket removers have worked well for me. Adding one of the gasket remover liquid product helps.

These were hard as all - just patiently worked them with a razor blade then soaked in citrus based decal stripper and finally hit it with a scotchbrite pad. ran a flat file over to ease any raised areas (usually around threaded holes)

 

[Retired CWO5]

. On to the suspension rebuild while the block and head are in the machine shop. Using threaded rods to drop the springs worked like a champ. Time to break out the sandblasting cabinet and powder coating equipment. Springs are getting replaced, whatever suspension and steering parts don't fit in my powder coating oven will get a couple coats of Eastwood chassis paint.