[crackie]

I've read many threads about the "gospel" on head re-torque procedures posted by papajam years ago. Everyone says to search on the term "lubing" to find it, but after searching for quite awhile, I can't find the thread. Doesn't seem to be in the FAQ, either.

Does anyone have a link to this famous "lubing" thread?

Thanks.

 

[jcslocum]

See some info here:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alf...ative-maintenance-not-rebuild-reassembly.html

 

[ljayr]

Whats wrong with just following the manuals procedure?

 

[crackie]

Thanks for the pointer.

The issue (that I see anyway) is that different manuals say different things re: hot vs. cold torque, ft/lbs., intervals, etc. So was looking through the bb for some empirical data on the topic. And universally in those threads folks refer to the "papajam lubing" topic, hence why I was trying to find it.

 

[Vivace]

You could try to PM him…
Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - View Profile: papajam

 

[kcabpilot]

The head studs and nuts need to be oiled prior to torquing them, you don't want to torque them dry. The "hot" re-torque is done immediately after assembly following the first run when the engine is at operating temperature. The initial lubrication you had put on the studs and nuts is still there. The "cold" re-torque is after about 1400 miles and at that time you completely remove the nut, re-oil and re-tourque. You do this in sequence one at a time.

 

[spiderserie4]

ideally (if I correctly recall Papajam's various threads on torqueing) you do not want to lube the nut, only the thread and washer, as lubing the domed nut might cause a 'lock' and send the torque wrench figures haywire.........
l also vaguely remember him writing that the 'sequence' given for tightening/torqueing down should ideally be reversed for loosening.
Also, if when loosening the nuts they creak and jerk, then the threads should be cleaned.

I retorque my head every 2 years, whether it needs it or not...it's like a mild alfa therapy
remove one nut completely, clean the threads on the stud and inside the nut, clean the washer and the area on the head the washers seat on (I use a soft copper brush and some brake cleaner spray); then oil the stud threads and the washer, then torque down...before doing the same on the second headnut following sequence....one at a time.
...so far so good...no head gasket leaks on my original-never-opened 110k mile engine....takes an hour or two to do carefully and methodically.