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Discussion Starter #1
Oh dear - am I having trouble removing the old track rod ends on my roundtail spider.

The car has been off the road for about 25 years - and I know I didn't change the ends in the few years I was running the car before its long rest - so they are probably the originals.

I've started in the engine bay (i.e. engine is out) and so far I've loosened one inner track rod end and one end on the link arm.

But can I remove the other ball joint from the link arm !!!

I've used a top quality (Draper) scissors splitter to no effect (it worked on the other end) and I've sprayed liberally with penetrating oil (and left to soak for a week).

I've ordered a new type of splitter (not scissors and not the useless fork type) which works such that the bolt acts directly on to the top of the taper. Hopefully this will be more effective.

If this doesn't work - what should I try next???

Will heating help???
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Will heating help???
One should never use heat on steering or suspension components. It can change the temper/strength of the metal.

Been using the method pictured below for decades. One or two sharp blows and the joint will literally fall out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:mad:Oh Dear !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've now been trying to remove the track rod end holding the tie rod to the steering drop arm for an elapsed period extending to over one week.

I've soaked everything with penetrating oil and I'm afraid that a few sharp lateral taps with a hammer have no effect.

I've tightened a scissors-type ball joint separator (Drapers) on the joint until I can't tighten the screw any further. I've simultaneously given the joint a few sharp lateral hits with a 4lb lump hammer. All to no effect.

In order to get a better fit for the separator between the ball-joint and the arm I used my angle grinder to separate the ball joint from the tapered shaft. At least the tie rod is now out of the way.

I reapplied the separator and tightened until I could tigthten no more.

What happened ?? Nothing.

It now looks like I'll have to remove the drop arm from the steering box and get the taper pressed out.

This is getting ridiculous!!!

From experience, can anybody advise the best way to mark the position of the link on the arm prior to removal ??? Would a scratched line across the join be good enough??

(If the tie rod ends are anything to go by, I won't be able to pull the drop arm anyway).

:(Who cares I think I'll leave the car in the garage for another 25 years!!
 

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1966-2013
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From experience, can anybody advise the best way to mark the position of the link on the arm prior to removal ??? Would a scratched line across the join be good enough??

It should be, yes.

You'll likely even find a factory line scribed or stamped there to start with. (mine has one anyway, and I've heard others mention it)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I haven't given up quite yet !!!

Thanks for all the advice.

I'll try a couple of simultaneous hammers tomorrow.

I've also got two new separators on order - one being a puller as per Bryan's suggestion.

I'll give those both a go - and then I expect to be looking for Tifosi's alignment marks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Success !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today I received the Draper "Direct Action" ball-joint puller which I had ordered.

Within five minutes I was in the garage and one minute later the troublesome ball-joint was removed.

So marks out of ten:

Pickle Fork = 1
Scissors Action = 3
Direct Action = 10
 

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