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Discussion Starter #1
Well as several of you know, I've rebuilt my '86 2.0 spider engine and she runs pretty good with no real leaks and feels strong only thing is, she smokes (it's sort of okay as she's 25 years old). Here is the rebuild link:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/nwa...e-washington/173056-2-0l-rebuild-seattle.html

Over the weekend, got a two day permit (expired tabs) to see if I could seat the rings before it's back into my shop. (dreading it)

Had a fun drive out on Highway 9 in WA on Sat. Great road and besides the big puffs of blue smoke out the back and the stink, it was a blast. After the two days of driving, it's still smoking. Went to emissions anyway and HC were high, O2 okay. Didn't pass.

Several theories out there.

I doubt that the rings are installed incorrectly but may have too much clearance and or ring gap for the used cylinders. Probably should have purchased a new set of liners and pistons. I wouldn’t think that honing the cylinder walls would take off that much but they may have been too loose to begin with as they were used.

After a run around the hood today to warm her up, tested the compression and it’s up a bit on all to 145-150-155-150
Funny that plug #1 is pretty white and 2, 3 & 4 are black.

I’m out of ideas except to last chance it with Bon Ami before I pull the engine.
After reading some BB post, the Bon Ami treatment is actually in my Pat Braden’s Alfa Bible as last resort. Coincidentally, that's the book I'm reading while laying in the engine bay.

I might take the Bon Ami idea and do it my own way. Mix a dash, 1/8 teaspoon, with a few drops of gas and put it in #4 (the blackest plug), crank it without spark and then test compression. See if it makes any difference.

If it works, worst is that I’ll need to rebuild a lot sooner due to warn parts...
That is IF it works.

I’ll probably do that first thing tomorrow AM after I sleep on it.

I'm open for other ideas but...
 

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deglazing cylinder walls

On trick I have used for years on all kinds of engines that have suspected glazed cylinder walls is to warm up the engine and remove the spark plugs. disconnect the power to the coil, (eliminate sparks) and pour an ounce of acetone (known to the distaff side as finger nail polish remover) into the spark plug hole, then crank over the engine with a towel over the plug holes to catch the liquid that may spray out. Repeat.
Put the plugs back in and then break in the rings with the accelerate, decelerate, repeat method.
Works for me, and doesn't leave the residue of the Bon Ami in the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Acetone

Works for me, and doesn't leave the residue of the Bon Ami in the oil pan.
Thanks George Haven't started the Bon Ami process yet.
Coincidentally, yesterday I was fixing a leak on my kayak and used Acetone to prep the surface and the can is still sitting on my bench. I'll try that method first. I did a bit of tossing and turning last night over the thought of pouring anything into my cylinders.
Kirk

Update: Looks like a tear-down. No luck and still lots of blow by. I'll start with pulling pistons but probably New liners - Pistons are in my future. One benefit, my pots & pans are nice and clean.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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DON'T DO IT!!!!!!! I can see the acetone but bonami, don't do it and don't ask me how I know.
 

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Give it more time. There is the ajax as a last resort. Might try the Total seal Quickseat dry film powder I think it is more or less the same as the ajax method .
 

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I probably don't have to say this, but don't use acetone on a hot engine and as George mentioned, eliminate spark. The idea is get rid of the glaze on the cylinder walls.
 

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1. Pull the engine and trans together. You'll save yourself a lot of time and aggravation.
2. What color is the smoke?

You mention smoking, black plugs, high HC, and rings. These four things don't necessarily go together. White smoke = oil, black smoke = fuel. It can be hard to tell the difference if there isn't a lot of smoke. However, sooting the plugs is a lot more likely due to fuel than oil, particularly with the reasonably good compressions you have described.

Before dismantling anything I'd chase down fuel mixture issues.
 

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Good luck with the tear down and fix. Odd you'd have compressions around 150 and have blow-by. I could see a broken oil control ring or two giving you oil in the compression chamber, but if your compressions are up around 15 normally you wouldn't have significant blow by.

Perhaps bad valve guides and/or guide seals?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Head is Okay

I did have the head done by Steve H in Tacoma who's know for good work and knowing of my situation, he has offered to go back through my head and check it at no charge.
Took out the pistons last night, but was getting late, didn't take time to examine yet. Hopefully this weekend and regardless of the outcome, I think I'll just buy new Pistons and Liners. Hopefully I can just purchase the lower oil pan and head gaskets as I'm not removing the crank.
 

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What rings did you use in the first place? sorry if I missed that if you've already said so. Did you use new pistons and liners in the first place? If so you can just use new rings and hone your existing liners if they were new when you put them in. Been there done that and yes you can have great compression numbers and still have blowby and burn oil, been there done that. Whatever you end up doing even though I've said it already i'll say it again..... super, super, super clean the liners I cleaned mine with brake parts cleaner and thought they were pretty doggone clean, ran the tip of my finger up and down the liner bore and they felt clean. Then I washed them in the dishwasher and when I ran my finger down the bore I could feel more resistance with the hone grooves being empty of the microscopic metal particles. There really was a major difference in the way they felt before and after.
Good luck!
 

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Good luck with your rebuild. Here's my experience with rebuild/blowby. I used Deves rings in my Alfetta rebuild because I believed they just had to be better than anything. People who knew better suggested Hastings but, for moi, they just didn't have the street cred of Deves. Put it together, with Castrol 20-50, drove it carefully . . . and it smoked. Drove it harder. It smoked. One day I got caught in traffic in Austin and found that the electric fan wasn't coming on, the motor overheated to the point of having a telltale "hot stink". I just knew I'd runined my new motor but, after cooling down, it started and ran just fine. Guess what: no smoke. The overheat knocked the glaze off the liners and let the *#!*&* "Swedish steel" rings seat.

Lessons learned: 1. Don't use "magic" rings. 2. Although garden variety and not expensive, Hastings rings seat quickly and work well. 3. Total Seal rings are also a good choice. 4. Do not use 20-50 modern oils to break in a new motor because there is a likelihood that the oil is "too good" and will inhibit the rings seating. 5. 30wt non-detergent w/ a zddp additive is a good oil to use during the light running break-in period.

As Gigem says: work clean!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
New rings, old pistons and liners

I did use Hastings rings, but it's out now and I'll take a closer look at everything. Seems, right now anyway, you can't order new pistons and liners.

I'll be looking into everything closer this weekend and report findings.
K
 
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