The $29.90 oil-filled Saab mount

Having some failing mounts here, I bought a Saab hydraulic mount _and_ an AR mount (they can be had much lower than $300 here). I compared them and decided that the Saab mount height would be proper if one made a spacer to fit around the tabs. The stud on the Saab unit is (I think) a 12mm thread instead of the 10mm thread on the AR. I considered two options on the stud:

1) belt-sanding the threads off and re-threading the smaller stud, and buying a 10mm (maybe adjustable) die and threading the stud. It might not be absolutely necessary to remove the other threads if an adjustable die opens up enough.

2) drilling out the A/C bracket. The standard clearance hole for a 10mm thread is 11mm, and a 12mm hole might actually pass the 12mm stud. If you _had_ to retrofit back to the AR stud, a bushing could be made and maybe fixed in place with red Loctite.

I've had the suggestion made that sawing off the Saab stud and drilling/tapping the hole for a 10mm bolt would be a Good Thing. I was too nervous about drilling into the oil-filled region.

And, as often happens with the plans of men, events pushed me and I had to install the AR mount on the car. I haven't had time to pursue the Saab mods, but they are still under consideration. I rather favor the belt-sander/die combination. The spacer disk may not be a good idea if it stresses the hydraulic mount and causes it to fail.

By the way, Charles, it is not at all necessary to remove the A/C mount. You just have to loosen the subframe bolts and pry the subframe down to make clearance for installing the new mount. The old one is usually in two pieces and comes out with no problem.

Michael

andrewg said:

My solid Saab mount does not seem to be holding up well. The rubber is breaking up. I would recommend stating with the Alfa mount.

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Yup. I agree. They are not very good. I stopped modifying these about a year or so ago due to them failing faster than stock.
I have some stock ones coming in September for a very good price. I can bet lower than most.

The saab mount modified can raise the motor about 1/4- 1/2" in the front. You cut anymore down in the mount and there are no threads left.

They fit better, less vibration, better quality! The stud goes all the way through the mount as well. We only get 1/4 way through the solid mount.

All said and done I may have them in about 2-3 weeks for around $199+/-

Saab mounts run about $130 (corteco) for the good ones. There are some crappy after market ones running around that fall apart. I have replaced mine once already as it ripped out.

My suggestion don't bother. You get what you pay for. You will be replacing it again and again.
The hydraulic filled mount is in low demand for a reason, upgraded to the solid which is not much better. Alfa OEM is much better quality than the saab and in the past years the Alfa mount has been upgraded.
$29.99

This is the one I use to modify:$128

OEM: $199.00 my price

I think there is a reason for the mount to be filled with hydraulic fluid! Most of the time when they go bad it is because the upper torque mounts are weak or the rear mount is weak or broken. Then it pulls on the front mount and weakens it. I don't suggest the cheapy $29 route, I think they are made in China, solid corteco are German. OEM is made in Italy of course.

Just my advice.

Ciao!
Jason

Alfissimo Int. said:

All said and done I may have them in about 2-3 weeks for around $199+/-

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Sorted then, Jason... I know you'd do an overseas-sale just for me Maybe I could pay you with Paypal or something.

In the meantime I got as far as shining a flashlight around the a/c compressor and getting that off looks like fun, fun, fun until Alex takes the engine away. How the hell it fits out past the coolant pipes etc. I just don't know. The reason for removal of bracket was theoretically to drill out hole to accept larger mounting stud but really, I think now this is a bad idea.

And anyway - while shining the flashlight around, I realised that the engine mount in question looks clean and dry - and when I raised the engine a little with a jack, the mount shows no signs of undue movement. So there's probably nothing wrong with it after all that, and my slight knocks/movement in the gearshift (with engine torque) are probably something else, like the rear mount perhaps (as I apply power after a gearchange, I can feel the gearlever move slightly).

There's also a lot of torque steer effects, a bit scary at 'high' speed, but I think those are probably control arm bushes, as they're covered in oil and sorry-looking.

Cheers,
-Alex

AlexGS said:

Sorted then, Jason... I know you'd do an overseas-sale just for me Maybe I could pay you with Paypal or something.

In the meantime I got as far as shining a flashlight around the a/c compressor and getting that off looks like fun, fun, fun until Alex takes the engine away. How the hell it fits out past the coolant pipes etc. I just don't know. The reason for removal of bracket was theoretically to drill out hole to accept larger mounting stud but really, I think now this is a bad idea.

And anyway - while shining the flashlight around, I realised that the engine mount in question looks clean and dry - and when I raised the engine a little with a jack, the mount shows no signs of undue movement. So there's probably nothing wrong with it after all that, and my slight knocks/movement in the gearshift (with engine torque) are probably something else, like the rear mount perhaps (as I apply power after a gearchange, I can feel the gearlever move slightly).

There's also a lot of torque steer effects, a bit scary at 'high' speed, but I think those are probably control arm bushes, as they're covered in oil and sorry-looking.

Cheers,
-Alex

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Sounds like linkage bushings bad. Somethings the linkage bushing which has a plastic sleeve can slip off and mis align the arm. Check them all.
Check upper torque rod bushings I bet they are bad especially front small one.
If those are bad you can get some of those issues. I would not count on the Transmission bushing to be bad, they seem to be the best ones alfa makes. I have never replaced one.
The rear passenger might be an issue. Also this seems stupid but I had a clunk very similar and the mount bolts where ever so slightly loose and the engine slipped back and forth and created a clunk at take off and sometimes when stopping really hard.

But now if you say bushings are covered in oil, that is the problem. I have seen that 100 times over. That oil eats them up and makes them slip.
I have a ton of those bushings coming in Sept. as well. They are inexpensive. No need to buy the whole arm.

I bet your hydraulic tensioner is leaking? Do you have the HT still? If so. Keep it and rebuilt it every timing belt change.

Good luck Alex.
Jason