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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know others have posted on this one. But I also noticed that my GTV6 idle quality was worse this summer when we got a lot of rain or hot and humid. So i checked the ignition rotor cap. No cracks and no condensation. Checked the plug wires. Hello - Noticed oil in three of the plug wells. Dang!

Then I remembered why. Back in 2007 when I had the valve covers powder coated, I noted that three valve cover bolt holes were in bad condition. This prevents you from applying proper torque as torque-ing the spark plug alone obviously isn't enough. At the time, I reused the valve cover and spark plug well gaskets (not the best idea). So I ordered new one's from IAP (+ new spark plug wires) and started research on repairing the threads. I chose Time-Sert over Heli-Coil. I ordered my M7x1 kit from Hoerr Racing in Peoria, IL (~$70.00, complete with proper drill bit, counter-sink tool, M7 tap, and insert tool + 5 inserts). Unfortunately it didn't come with the Tap handle, so I bought one from Home Despot (another $15.00). Fairly straightforward except I also used some red Loctite on the inserts. Time-Sert says it's not really needed, but I used some anyway. While I had everything off, I took the opportunity to check/adjust the exhaust valves. This motor has 163k on it & you would not know looking at the cams! Yeah, this puppy has good compression too and starts right up! Castrol GTX 20w-50 for as long as I've owned it. Who knows before. So much for the ZDDP issue.
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My angled feeler gauge goes from .008 to .010. (no .009 which is spec for exhaust) On all .008 would fit snugly, .010 not even. So, pretty much on the money except #4 which felt looser than the others. Tightened that one to .008 (but still too "noisy if you ask me). I suppose a "real" valve adjust to .0017 intake and .007 exhaust would help a lot. New exhaust manifold gaskets and a hood liner wouldn't hurt either.
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Take care when drilling and tapping so's not to get ANY shards in the head or puddles of oil in the cam gallery. I used a cloth hand towel to catch any of it & then a small brush to brush anything the towel missed. After brass wire brushing the gasket surfaces, flatten any bad scratches with emery cloth or fine file in sweeping motion along length (not across). Wipe with acetone. I then ran some Blue RTV on the spark plug well surfaces where they are in contact with the cover only. Do not do all at once as the RTV will dry before you get to it. Do the spark plug gaskets one-at-a-time and then install the spark plug hole gaskets. Then do the perimeter, using your finger to spread and thin it. Position the valve cover gasket making sure the bolt holes line up. Lastly, install the valve covers. This was basically a
+ fixing stripped valve cover bolt holes.
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I took this opportunity to use the socket head cap screws I purchased from APE some time back. I had a hard time finding the correct torque for these but my wrench starts at 100 in.lbs, which is about 8 ft.lbs (didn't wait for click - I gave addl 1/8 to 1/4 turn after feeling good resistance). Spark plugs are 18-25 ft. lbs, but I use pretty much the same German torque method (Goot-n-teit).

Looks pretty good & my Golden Lodge plugs are now high and dry! - plus no burning oil smell wafting into the cabin ;p Now all I have to do is resolve my rich running condition. :|
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