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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the CAR
I ran my compression test.....disturbing

#1 - 175 (dry)
#2 - 35 (dry) 35 (wet)
#3 - 90 (dry) 105 (wet)
#4 - 120 (dry)

Checked valve clearances:

INTAKE - .015 .011 .014 .010

1 2 3 4

EXHAUST - .017 .017 .018 .018

Diagnosis???....I know it can't be pretty
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am ashamed to say that the the throttles were NOT open......I wasn't even in the car....just reached in and turned the key.....I will check it again tomorrow...(should other plugs be in or not, the first test had other 3 plugs in)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
RE-Compression test

Ok....redid the compression test....foot to the floor...all plugs out....tester tight (tested twice)

#1 - 120
#2 - 35
#3 - 175
#4 - 155
(I am suprised in the difference)

I believe the timing chain is not the original....there are scoring marks on the valve cover and no wear marks on the chain....can someone tell from the photos or tell me (idiot's guide pls) how I would be able to verify "cam timing" and could that be a source of this problem (many more to follow)....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have figured that I need to redo the head.....have almost convinced myself to just pull the engine and go over the whole thing (have never done it before)......

To verify cam timing position the #1 piston at TDC on compression (the cam lobes for #1 will be pointing away from each other - i.e. the intake pointing right and the exhaust pointing left.) There should be a pointer on the bottom of the water pump and marks on the crank pulley. 'P' for TDC and 'F' for ignition timing.
I checked the timing for giggles (still have carb issues) and have seen these marks with the light....I figured I would have to do some cleaning to the pulley also...

However, being the frugal guy that I am (OK, cheap...) I don't like to waste a lot of money to make the diagnosis. Thus my eL-cheapo leak down tester should pinpoint the problem(s).
Being frugal myself, I was smart enough to get a compression tester with a quick release....to my fortune, it is the same release my air compressor uses....what PSI should I push through and what/where should I listen??

One other thing to try before tearing it apart is to peek into the #2 spark plug hole while turning the engine over. You will be able to get a glimpse of the valves as they open & close. If they don't - big problem! (bent/broken valves). If they do, see what the edges look like. Any chunks missing means burned valves (and probably seats, too).
I looked into the cylinder and it seems that #2 is the only one that looks clean, but I am not able to see much of the valves, I haven't tried looking while the engine is turning....

Redo the test with a cap full of oil in each cyl. If it comes up significantly it indicates rings. If it doesn't come up...indicates gasket or valves. I am wondering about #1 since it is way low compared to 3 and 4. If either 1 or 2 come up significantly with oil....consider pulling the motor and refreshening it all.
I figured I would have to do it wet so I put the oil in first this time....didn't bother with a dry run...



Who wants to come over for a head rebuilding party??????:D:D:D
 
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