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I've been using Wix filters for years now and I concur.
 

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My understanding is that WIX manufactures O'Reily filters as well as NAPA.

Wix and Napa were both owned by DANA Corpration who also started Victor Reinz Company before DANA went belly up.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #263 (Edited)
Weber mods, etc

In a message dated 12/17/2018 3:16:43 PM Central Standard Time, carloxxxxxxxxxxwrites:

Hello Richard,

Hopefully I will be through with my questions to you soon.

Is it possible to use these two carburettors as a pair on one motor 45DCOE13 (1D) and 45DCOE9 (4C)?

Thank you,

Regards,
Carlo
Sent from my iPad
On 17 Dec 2018, at 21:50, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

Yes, Effectively the same body. But check the tops to compare the length of the float mounts.
If the mounts hanging down from the top are the same length and both with the same floats (metal or plastic, plastic ones come with longer mounts than metal ones) you are good as long as all jets, venturis and e-tubes (F-16) are the same. Length of the rods on the accelerator pump piston should be the same as well.
Rj
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In a message dated 12/19/2018 1:17:31 AM Central Standard Time, carloxxxxxx writes:

Hello Richard,

Another question please - would you share the modifications I would have to make to the carburettors in order to get to the 220 -230 bhp level?

Regards,

Carlo

Sent from my iPad

All the mods have been posted in the BB on my Technical Questions, the Duetto Race car thread, and Spider Improvement thread. The most recent carb mods for 40 DCOEs are at post 151 on :
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-repair-diagnostics-rebuilding/331266-technical-questions-rj-s-suggestions.html

You should read this thread in it`s entirety as Lots of race mods are covered as well as in the Race car thread where Weber 45s & 50s mods are covered:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/motorsports/146464-old-alfa-racer-pics-so-west-div.html

More info on Carb mods are on these threads:
https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/carburetors-fuel-injection/151959-weber-40s-45s.html

Major driveline/suspension improvements on:
 https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/74007-spider-improvement-effort.html

May be time consuming but informative
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #264
Cam timing

From another post this AM

Quote:
Advancing the intake cam timing via the VVT increases overlap which can aid in low/midrange power (at the expense of high end).
Jim, actually that`s backward.

On the intake side, advancing the cam & increasing overlap reduces the low end fuel load, (out the exh during overlap) reducing combustion pressures (reducing torque) and resulting in late closing of the intake valve which increases reversion into the intake tract and as Jim Steck has pointed out results in a already fuel loaded mass of air passing through the Aux-venturi results in a overly rich mix that shows up on the AFRs at about 3000-5000 RPM depending on intake design.

Retarding the intake cam timing results in less overlap, (more fuel/air mix,in the cylinder, more combustion pressure (torque (& HP) both at lower and higher RPMS.

On the exhaust side, retarding the cam say to 102 LC, will open the exhaust valve later which lengthens the power stroke (more torque/HP).

BUT the factor that cant be ignored is cam lobe design. If the lobes are Typical Alfa factory cams with lots of overlap the cam timing events have to be timed differently to maximize the valve opening where flow is best, with the timing of the piston speed/position so that valve lift is optimized with the draw from the vacuum of the piston`s downward movement.

In the world of single cam engines where intake and exh lobes are fixed on the cam, the rule of thumb is to advance the cams "Centerline" (Center of the cams Lobe Separation Angle (LSA, which when correctly matched will have a larger LSA for long runner intake systems and smaller for short runner systems)
Typically below a 103 LSA (Int LC + Exh LC divided by 2) is considered extremely tight. Most cams built today have Much larger LSAs, 105-112 depending on the lobe design on both and particularly the ramp rate (opening speed the valve.)
That`s why when I suggest abandoning the old factory specified LCs (of factory cams) of 102/102 for 104/104 or 105/105 owners report both better power/torque and overall HP.
All my cams typically are best in the 105 LSA range, with LCs of 104/106 or 105/105 etc. depending on lobe & application.

A 99 LC on these VVT engines isn`t getting the optimum from these motors, The VVT is a Emission designed unit with too much advance built into the device. They can be modified with shims to reduce overall advance degrees (from 7 degrees to less advance)
But Idle to 1500 RPM is the target emission point being addressed so they retard the int cam too much(as well as the exh cam at 102LC) to reduce overlap and then advance it too far, so the engine can make enough power to have a sellable automobile, that still barely makes enough power to pull a greasy string out of a cat`s a$$.

Happy Holidays!
 

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Richard Jemison
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7,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #265 (Edited)
Choosing Cam LCs

From another post/thread:
Choosing LCs
Read the latest post on my Technical Questions or the Dynoed my 86 Spider thread today.

What others with cam designs totally different from any other doesn`t have any application to your engine.

What is your engine, induction lengths, use, cams installed, VVT or not, these are the factors that determine where to set cams.
As I posted Stock Alfa cams have excessive overlap at 102/102 if that`s what you have.

It`s X-mas -1 and I`m bored so here`s some info

Here`s the Best of Alfa`s production cams the 10548-01 and
Ed`s current cams in red Intake/exh
10548 03200 “ 01" (Cam Data .401 Max Lift 10.2 mm lobe lift
Cam Lift Dur. at “0” lash. Factory LCs 99.5/99.5)
Ed`s cams
.018 286 (off the seat/lash, Paired overlap at 99.5 LCs is 76
.020 278 degrees, & way too much! at 104/104 = 56 degrees
.040 240
.050 230
.100 211
.200 173
.300 118
.350 83
.400 10

Eds intake & Exhaust cams currently RjR575 int 785 exh and next exhaust cam he`s going to install. (The new exh is an extreme power builder.)
Lobe lift Int,.503(12.8mm) Exh,.461"(11.7mm) New exh.495"
Intake RjR 575-----------------Exh RjR785-----------Exh RjRprivate
,010-304-OTS duration/lash-------------------------------276
.012--------------------------------287(lash/OTC---------------
.020-289---------------------------273---------------------264
.040-273---------------------------252---------------------252
.050-267---------------------------247---------------------246
.100-242---------------------------223---------------------228
.200-202---------------------------186---------------------194
.300-156---------------------------145---------------------156
.350-137---------------------------------------------------------
.400-120----------------------------89----------------------110
.450--81----------------------------12------------------------65
.500---8---------------------------------------------------------
Overlap with cams set at 104LC each (add intake Overlap to Exhaust overlap for total overlap 105/105 LCs will reduce this overlap about 4 degrees total
27 degs.------------------------18.5 degs.-----------------26 degs.
Paired overlap-------------------45.5 degs.---------------- 53 degs.
Share
__________________
Richard Jemison
RJR Racing
Scuderia Giallo Home
"When you are dead you don`t know it.
Only those around you are distressed.
Same with stupid"
 

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Richard Jemison
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7,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #266
VVT use

Just for information:
VVT use
My motor with big cams and 45DCOE's could use some help below about 2700 rpm and if I were doing a custom VVT it would retard the intake cam at about that point. I would not use throttle position to activate it.
Well, it`s pretty simple to do, but don`t use a solenoid VVT for it without internal modifications.

I`ve built several mechanical VVT units to advance the cams at much higher RPMs. Simple to do as you cut back the flyweight. As well, these as well as the Solenoid version can be shimmed internally to reduce the amount of advance. As designed they are an emission tool, not a performance tool.

The nice thing about the mechanical ones is they do not require anything to flow through a solid to make then functional. (same with carbs!)

If you limit total advance to a very few degrees (5-6 at the Crank {2-3 at cam}) you could have the best cam positions per your testing at 110 un-advanced & 105 advanced.

As well, all these postings on the amount of total advance with VVTs is way off the real numbers.

The mechanical VVT`s timing specifications were 114 (un-advanced and 102 advanced. Those are crankshaft degrees marked on the caps & specified,not camshaft degrees, So the cam`s total advance is only 6 degrees.

Solenoid advanced VVTs from Bosch injected engines used 118 LC un-advanced and 99 degree LC when advanced. That`s 19 degrees at the crankshaft, and 9.5 cam degrees. That`s way too much for any thing but idle & off idle emission reduction, and 99 LC is way too advanced, but then with these VVT`s the exhaust LCs were 108 degrees opening up the LSA to 103.5 degrees, which results in an "advanced cam centerline" to improve low/mid range performance.
 

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Asked this in my build thread, but this one seems to get more traffic from the appropriate persons:

When I had my block drilled to oil the 2 & 4 main bearings, the machine shop had to remove the studs for the main caps. Is there a torque value for these studs or are they done hand tight like head studs?
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #268
Removed the studs?

When I had my block drilled to oil the 2 & 4 main bearings,
Why? If you use the oil pressure outlet at # 2 and the similar undrilled boss at # 4 on the left side you would go under the studs. If they drilled higher the stud would block the oil passage.

The stud in the block should be tightened to about 50 lbft
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #270
I need 4 cyl cam cores!

I need 4 cyl cam cores! Any Nord cams (But NO VVT intake cams) that have good bearing surfaces will do. Lobe wear/damage is not a problem.
Send me a PM on what you have please.
Rj
 

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Having watched the head gasket blow, accompanied by a cascade of spiking temperature and sinking oil pressure I continue to be more than a little surprised (and thankful) that the bottom end of my hot-rod 2 liter is undamaged. I'd really expected the worst but, instead, we can just do a normal rebuild. The parts are in: Standard King bearings from Paul Spurell, full gasket set w/ Reinz head gasket from Centerline, along with Hastings rings also from Centerline (we discovered that Total Seal doesn't catalogue a gapless ring set for Motronics). So with the help of my old friend, Bob Fernald, we're about ready to build an engine.

Unfortunately, I can't say the same for my old, but carefully ported cylinder head. I'm enclosing a photo showing cracks running under both the intake and exhaust valve seats. The obvious cause of my engine failure was the major crack at the intake seat. I've pretty much decided to go ahead and start port work on a good, uncut, 2 liter head. I've never had a head welded so I continue to be curious if this one can be fixed. I'd appreciate learned comments . . .

In case anyone is curious, these photos show the valve seat form recommended many years ago by John Shankle: .050 x 90 degree counterbore with a 30 degree (instead of the more common 45 degree) x .050 valve seat. I used 1mm larger 45mm intake valves. The head performed very well for about 35 or 40k miles, first in my old Alfetta berlina and lately in my '72 Super. It was working real good until, suddenly, it wasn't . . .
 

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Has anybody moved the spark plug sideways on one of these engines?
It's in the way of the valves
Pete
 

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I've seen photos (I think, anway) of it being done. You can also insert a aluminum plug in the spark plug hole and then drill and tap for a 10mm spark plug. A friend's race head has 47mm intake valves. The oversized seat actually intrudes into the plug hole and has threads cut in it to allow the spark plug to fit. It's a bit tight.
 

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The cost of welding and then straightening the head will be a good deal more than a good used head. My new head started life as a Motronic which now flows as good with simple porting as a SPICA head with welded up and realigned exhaust ports. So don't rule out one of those.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #275 (Edited)
Heads for Racing or Performance

I use early Bosch Motronic versions of the heads when I can find them, But the L-Jet Bosch heads are a better application. Ed your head is one of those early Motronic versions that have the small high exhaust ports and oil return slots.

The `89-90 heads were using the short valves with the large diameter
BCs of the Motronic engines and differ from later heads in that they have the usual 4 large oil return slots along the sides of each cam follower pocket, missing in later heads.
The later heads do not have this feature and oil only escapes over the sides of the cam caps. Result is excessive oil in the cam cover.

The Bosch "notched" heads have a little more material at the top of the ports which allows raising the intake ports less troublesome for personal race heads that are using 50mm Weber DCOs, raised entry
and very large ports.

I caution the use of a straight 90 degree opening of the seats. First due to reduction in material strength with heat loading, and 45 or 50 degree seats will mushroom the surface due to the high angle pounding. Leaving the upper surface smaller in width (larger initial opening) with a 30 degree seat, has less "wedging" force plus the flow benefit of the opening.
Basically thin walled seats tend to fail. Which destroys a head, piston, liner and possibly more. I know from exposure...
 

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I caution the use of a straight 90 degree opening of the seats. First due to reduction in material strength with heat loading, and 45 or 50 degree seats will mushroom the surface due to the high angle pounding. Leaving the upper surface smaller in width (larger initial opening) with a 30 degree seat, has less "wedging" force plus the flow benefit of the opening. Basically thin walled seats tend to fail. Which destroys a head, piston, liner and possibly more. I know from exposure...
[/QUOTE]

Actually, this was a developing worry of mine the more I learned about head porting. This was an old head, the first one I did that actually worked. I first built it in the mid-80's sometimes and ran it on my hot-rod Alfetta for several years. All told, it has well over 30k miles on it. And for most of that time, it had me worrying about those seats . . .

What many people don't remember about John Shankle is what a true Alfa enthusiast he was. He was always receptive to my newbie phone calls and always took time to answer my questions. And knowing just who I was talking to, this was something I genuinely appreciated. I understand and appreciate John's long-ago advice and I must say his seat form worked well for many miles but this time around I'm going to use a 75 degree counterbore w/ 30 degree seats.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Discussion Starter #277
Moly and Non Moly syncro blending

alphil said:
I'm converting a split-case 4speed to a non-moly syncro 5speed.Can I use a moly dog gear (from an early NOS needle bearing 5th)in the split case non-moly gearbox? Also,the SC 4speed has three same size detent springs/retainers whereas the 5speed uses a longer spring/retainer for 5/R.detent,what's the point and should it be changed out? Thanks for anything,Phil

I`m going to answer this and then post it on my "Technical Questions" thread.

I use the early non-moly bands in my personal race transmissions as they are more durable. The dog teeth "engagement angle(point) are different in the early non-moly boxes and the later Moly boxes. I would suggest changing the dog teeth to later Moly ones and the slider rings to match. There is no issue with the non-moly bands fitting in the Moly dog assemblies. But I suggest that you only use Redline 75-90 NS with these bands. As to the detent springs, the cup is taller and the spring longer. I`ve never bothered to change them with no difference between long & short noticed.

Now if your 1-4 gears are from a 4 speed then it`s a good start for building a close ratio gearset with it. But it requires modifying the 4 speed layshaft to carry the 5th/reverse package. The gear tooth counts are different between the 4 speed and later 5 speed boxes and must be matched with the corresponding layshaft gears
 

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Richard Jemison
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7,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #278 (Edited)
Removing pan baffles to allow Oil Pump removal

Cosimo said:
Hi Richard,

Way back in Sept. you posted a few pictures of a modified upper oil pan on my "Another Oil Pressure..." thread.

It looks like you've modified a few of these and if you have time and don't mind, I'd love to know how you've tackled the mod, especially if you've done it with the engine and upper pan still in the car.

Thanks,

Chris
I dropped the lower pan and cut the aluminum baffles on the front left side with a reciprocating saw. The parts had points that couldn`t be cut and a hammer removed the section at those points as the structure was weakened.. Then washed down the underside of the engine with brake clean to clear the aluminum debris.

When replacing the Opmp on the front cover I use 8mm x 1.25 socket head cap screws (AKA allen head screws) as its easier to fit a ball head allen wrench to tighten iot down than wrenches for the 13mm bolts.

Rj
 

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Today I got started building up my motor. At some point at the machine shop or perhaps in transit, it appears that one of the dowel pins for the main cap somehow freed itself of the block and got lost (as pictured). It does not seem that any of the major alfa vendors list this item. It appears Chevy LS motors also use 10mm main cap studs, and I'm therefore hoping the $3 one sold at Jegs fits. But if it doesn't, any ideas of where these can be found? I have a spare block, but no luck getting them loose when I actually wanted them lose :sneaky2:
 

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Today while searching for main bearings I thought I had, I found a WebCam box with a pair of A16 cams. What are they?
 
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