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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While in the process of tracking down a coolant leak, I removed the lower rear T belt cover to gain access to some water pump bolts. This exposed the new T belt tensioner I had just installed. I noted that the indicator was aligned nicely with its companion mark on the tensioner body. Then, to check how I was doing with my leak repair, I started the car and let it idle for one or two minutes. This left the block barely warm but the tensioner indicator had fallen way below the mark. It has stayed there even though the engine is almost back to ambient temperature.

Should I assume that I broke the tensioner somehow during installation?

BTW, I ran the engine last night for a couple of minutes. The tensioner wasn't exposed at that time so I don't know how it performed. But as I said, it looked OK this morning before I ran the engine again.

If it is broken, how tricky is it to replace the tensioner without letting the T belt slip? It looks like it (the tensioner) can be removed without taking everything else out. The old tensioner is still on hand and is in good shape with less than 30K of use.

Mac D
 

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I would not assume anything is wrong with it. What you should have done though (while everything was apart) to ease your mind was, let the engine cool down and then rotate the engine by hand at the crankshaft a few times and then back to TDC. Indicator should line up with the mark. You could have retensioned it while everything was apart if it wasn't right. Now you can only worry about it. If it was installed correctly it should still be fine. When the engine is at any other temp, the mark and indicator will not align perfectly.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right you are, Chazzy. I went so far as to remove the timing belt covers to make sure that my cam timing was still correct. As soon as I hand-turned the crank toward TDC the tensioner indicator went back to normal. And, yes, my timing was spot on.

I'm still sorting out a small coolant leak (the prime suspect is one of the two short hoses from the thermostat/pump unit to the block) and I'm looking for some feedback regarding the need for new ignition wires.

Thanks.

Mac D.
 

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Glad you didn't have a lot of disassembly to do to recheck it. This car has one of the most tedious timing belt/wp/drive belt arrangements I've ever messed with. Not too big of a deal after doing it a few times, but still I'd rather do a timing belt on a 928 or maybe even a Subaru boxer engine (OK maybe not that one). :p
Charles
 

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I also have a question regarding the tensioner indicator.

I am doing a head gasket job on a Milano 3.0L......

After lining up the cams, crank and the distributor to #1 notch still the tensioner does not line up. I have been driving the car for so many years never a problem.
 

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How many years and miles do you have on the timing belt and tensioner
 

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I own the car for 5 years, since I bought it I drove about 14k miles. The previous owner said it was replaced recently, but have no proof on that.
 

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1991 164L
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If you are doing head gasket replacement you need new timing belt and you need to inspect your mechanical tensioner to ensure it is a serviceable unit.

Be sure pulley bearing is not noisy, and outer spring for thermal clutch is not broken, inner spring is good and strong and no binding of pulley pivot point.

See how to inspect the mechanical tensioner and other items concerning cam timing and timing belt tensioning etc., here:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164...alfa-164-alfisto-steves-maintenance-tips.html
 

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I am replacing the tensioner and the belt with a new one.

I have never worked on a V6 timing belt, so my concern is when putting the new tensioner the indicator should line up right?..... and how come the old one is not lining up and the car ran fine.
Is this an indication of a slipped belt or its common thing.
 

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I am replacing the tensioner and the belt with a new one.

I have never worked on a V6 timing belt, so my concern is when putting the new tensioner the indicator should line up right?..... and how come the old one is not lining up and the car ran fine.
Is this an indication of a slipped belt or its common thing.
If pointer above index line when engine cold belt under tensioned and if below index line with cold engine belt over tensioned.
 

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It was probably set up correctly when the work was done, but five years later and the belt can stretch a bit or the springs in the tensioner can lose strength or what not, and then the pointer will not line up correctly anymore. The timing will still be on (since the tensioner is spring loaded) so it would run fine. If the tensioner is way loose though the belt could jump teeth and then it would be out of time (or something worse could happen). After five years it is a good idea to replace the tensioner and belt to reset the clock on this very important maintenance item. If you feel brave and the tensioner bearings and springs are still good, you could reuse it, but I would not. I have several on the shelf that are still "good" but I didn't trust how much longer they would last. Follow the IAP install instructions to the letter > http://www.international-auto.com/afla-romeo-engine-mechanical/alfa-romeo-timing-belt-tensioner.cfm
Charles
 

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Of course I will definitely change the tensioner and belt, I don't do any short cuts. I will also replace the water pump.

The head will have new guides, new seals, new valves. I also have iron/steel exhaust guide original from Alfa I might go with that instead of manganese bronze, but will do bronze for the intake.

I already have all the parts, but my only concern was the indicator not being correct.

Steve do you know what is the easiest way of removing the ABS unit. Someone told me you have to loosen the 4 nuts and remove the shaft/rod from inside the car below the dash.

Thank you all!
 

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1991 164L
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Milano Verde ABS master cylinder/pedal box removal

Steve do you know what is the easiest way of removing the ABS unit. Someone told me you have to loosen the 4 nuts and remove the shaft/rod from inside the car below the dash.

Thank you all!
Not really A question for 164 section but here is what little I KNOW ABOUT VERDE ABS MASTER CYLINDER.

Are you converting brake system to vacuum booster and master?

To remove ABS master you have to remove clevis pin from brake pedal and 4 nutsin engine bay holding master from pedal box.

If converting to vac booster/master set up you will need correct pedal box to go with it and to remove ABS pedal box you have to remove 5 nuts from studs under dash in addition to playing with accelerator cable and clutch master plumbing in engine bay, etc.

Other parts needed will be brake compensator valve and various brake lines for new vac boosted system.

Donor car very helpful.
 

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Hi Steve, I am keeping the ABS system no conversion.

What type of guide would you use on your V6 engine? going with iron for exhaust and bronze for intake?

Yes you are right this is a 164 forum :)
 

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Hi Steve, I am keeping the ABS system no conversion.

What type of guide would you use on your V6 engine? going with iron for exhaust and bronze for intake?

Yes you are right this is a 164 forum :)

I use bronze for both and definitely would not use cast iron OEM ones for intakes. I lost a GTV6 engine when one let go and sent scrapnel into other 5 cylinders too through intake plenum.
 
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