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Premium Member
86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #1
My System 1 oil filter came today. Used to run one years ago in my Class 5 off road racer, the guts all look the same but the casing is much nicer, more compact. I have always liked the ability to inspect what the filter is catching without getting messy cutting one open......
 

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Premium Member
86 Veloce
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898 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You reuse it all unless you damage the micron filter. Just clean it all and reinstall!
 

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I like that.
There have been a few ‘shocking’ revelations here on the BB about the flimsy nature of many spin-on oil filters’ internals.
For this reason I have been occasionally bemused when people rush to convert the cartridge-type filters in early cars to the later spin-on setup, and consider it an improvement. More convenient, granted, but not all that much.
This item looks even more substantial than the cartridge filters.
Smart move, I think.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Doesn't seem like a good option for a street car, IMO. It's only a 45 micron steel mesh (with no stated efficiency) and it doesn't look like it has a bypass.

That is really coarse. In contrast, a good synthetic media filter will have like 99% efficiency at 20 microns. I could see this on a race car but it seems like a poor choice for the street.

What problem are you trying to solve? If the answer is "I don't want to make a mess when I cut the filter open to inspect it," do you really need to do that? And if so, is it worth having worse oil filtration all the time?
 

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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #6
You can order many different filtering sizes. The typical oil filter only filters at 40 microns and most wear in an engine comes from particles smaller than 10 microns and at that filtration the filter becomes too restrictive. I ordered the 35 micron filter.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Hey, it's your car man. But the filters I use publish both particle size and single-pass efficiency. The fact that System 1 doesn't seem to publish the latter is a big red flag.

Maybe good for racing, not a great idea for the street. Again, figure out what problem you're trying to solve: I've never ever felt the need to cut open a filter. You're worried about your engine send a sample to Blackstone.
 

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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #8
Well, your first statement is certainly true.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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It replaces your disposable oil filter with a cartridge filter that uses a cleanable & reusable stainless-steel filter element. For racing applications I guess there are some advantages: higher flow, and the ability to easily check your filter for bits of engine. But there's a tradeoff between flow and filtration, and as with many things that might be good for a race car it's probably a very poor choice for the street.
 

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86 Veloce
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898 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
How do these contaminants get in your oil? Through your airbox. "Hint". Most of the damage made by particulate matter is made by material that is too small to filter effectively but I guess you can keep trying. Get a filter the size of a garbage can so you can filter down to 10 microns (still ain't getting it all) and still have effective flow and you can get 250k out of your engine! I doubt I would ever run it more than 50k without a teardown and freshening anyway so I am sweating nothing. Maybe we can start an oil or a tire or an air filter thread we can beat to death.....
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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"10um particles do all the damage, so let's let 30um particles through" does not come across as sound filtration logic.

Your statement on filtration capabilities and flow is incorrect. Many high quality synthetic media filters are ~99% single pass efficiency at 20um and ~90% at 10um. They don't have any flow issues on a street car. If you search for any of the major brands you can typically find efficiency by particle size as there are standard tests for this.

System 1 don't publish their efficiency data as far as I can tell. That's likely because the 20um & below efficiency of a 30um metal screen is very bad. Which is probably fine for a racing engine that doesn't see a crap ton of miles between rebuilds. You want to use it it's your call, but I sure as heck wouldn't recommend it for a street car. Again: what problem are you trying to solve here, and what peformance are you willing to trade off to do it?

Also, from what I'm seeing a lot of those System 1 models do not have an anti-drainback valve. So if you insist on using it make sure your model has one, because not having one is really bad.
 

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86 Veloce
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It is a well documented fact that the small particles do the most damage over time, but are very difficult to filter efficiently.The ones that do the most damage quickly are the ones that are or slightly smaller than your oil clearances, the ones that ARE controllable. If you checked these during rebuild and followed specs you will notice that they are very close to the 40 micron range. There is virtually nothing you can do about the minute particles except control the purity of the air you introduce into the system. You can beat your head against the wall spouting how you need to filter out EVERYTHING but you cant. So you do what you want, but leave this issue alone. System 1 has been in business for over 40 years with an outstanding reputation in the racing AND street circles.
EDIT. Well since the bantering and oil filter sparring I decided to do some looking. I know I can get focused on an issue and because I had used System 1 in the past and was happy with them I had tunnel vision.... that was over 30 years ago. Times change. I knew I wanted a reusable filter and found one that uses newer technology and, at this point, appears to be somewhat superior to System 1. So, through all the hubbub, thanks for helping me look past my experience and possibly find a better product!
 
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