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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning every one, here again asking for wise guidance
as usual little intro restoring 1974 gtv 2L us specs from the ground up
when reassembling the sway bar after replacing bushings i noticed the drop link to sway bar junction ( upper side), spins around just with the hand, i noticed when assembling it when in easy with a hammer , any idea what can i do? the original ones where hard to remove and the new bushings were bought from Classic alfa
all the best
Guillermo
 

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I had this also with the bushings now sold. Maybe rough up the end of the sway bar with a cold chisel, make some lengthwise divots with little ridges, to grab the bushing? Or use Loctite that's meant to retain shafts and bearings? Distort the bushing's inner sleeve a bit?
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Andrew, i guess i will do that, the vendor ofered to look into it but i think is going to be futile, i will try ur approach and maybe for the future move to blade bar
thanks again
have a question on a different matter I got also from the same source a rear brake disc coated witha paint like finish, im not used to this, should i remove the paint with like steel wool? or let the pads do the job
Thanks
Guillermo
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Just as a data point the SU053 bushings I got from Classic Alfa a few months ago fit appropriately on my '74 sway bar.

I don't think it's a big deal if the bushing rotates on the bar, that won't affect the sway bar action (poly bushings rotate, for example). You just don't want it coming off the end of the bar. I've seen where folks have tack welded a washer on the end of the bar to prevent that if the bushings are a bit loose, but I can't tell you if that's the best solution.

A lot of brake discs come with an anti-corrosion coating on them these days. Haven't seen this on any Alfa discs I've bought but my wife's car had the coating and it said not to remove it. Just install them as-is and the pads will quickly expose bare metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Gubi
I can rotate the bushing with some effort , they are not totally loosen neither press fitted.
the disk was an Italian manufactured part I got from Classic alfa
guillermo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have another question
whats your feeling about changing to an earlier blade style bar ( i can get a spider one for 50 us)? would you guys go that way????
cheers
thanks
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Well, it's a bit easier to deal with the ball jointed drop links vs. the rubber bushings, but beyond that I don't really see a big advantage vs. just fixing what you've got if you've already got all the parts. Note that you'll also need a different set of mounting points at the spring pan to install a blade bar (Classic Alfa has them as SU102/2).
 

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I just got a set of sway bar bushings from Classic Alfa yesterday, installed them today and encountered the loose bushing phenomenon. So is the general consensus that the drop link bushing at the sway bar doesn't have to be fixed so it's okay for the sway bar to twist or whatever?
 

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--ADMINISTRATOR--chiuso per ferie
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I would not drive the car with the end links slipping. See the thread below and have a look at the pictures.


I would do what @Andrew suggested or what is suggested in the thread above.
 

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Yes, the "gumballs" don't hold them to the lower A-arms that tightly and the link can rotate, coming off the bar. You wouldn't immediately crash, but if the link comes off when you're cornering at 9/10, could be an exciting moment.
I worked on a Super last year that had both links broken, and believe me the sway of the body with no front bar is extreme.
Andrew
 

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Okay. So am I correct in understanding that it's okay for the bushings to rotate some amount on the sway bar so peening or deforming the end of the sway bar to prevent the bushing coming off is more important?
The adhesive option would be very straightforward but is there adhesive made for this kind of situation or would you just use red/permanent loctite?
 

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Stock, they are pressed on. The rubber should flex and give but the metal sleeve should be tight on the bar and in the link. I would chisel ridges sufficent to get the bushing to press on and say put. And maybe loctite too, yes. A nonstock option would be to drill and tap a hole in the end of the bar for a retaining bolt and large washer/collar arrangement. I don't know if the bar is too hard for that? I don't think so.
Andrew
 

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I don't think of it as a high-wear area. On race cars they use Heim joints there, those move. But checked and replaced as needed.
Andrew
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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So I went out to check the way the link on the GTV I have had been welded and take a photo. Turns out it's good I did! The new CA bushing I installed on the driver side, and which seemed plenty tight when I installed it, had moved out 1/4" on the bar end and was slightly rotatable by hand. So I guess it wasn't that tight after all 😕

On the passenger side I'm guessing the drop link bushing to the bar had similarly been loose, so the PO had welded a washer to the end of the bar to hold it in place. Unfortunately it looks like the bushing outer shell has since come loose in the drop link, so that was slid about halfway out. Must've happened in the last couple of months because it was fine before.

I was able to pretty easily grind off the welded washer and remove that passenger side drop link. I've got a new one on the way, and I plan to tack weld a new washer on each side of the bar to make sure they don't come off again.
 

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I installed polly bushings about 10 years ago and had the same problem. I used a clip similar to the clips used to hold brake drums to the wheel hub. 10 years no problems. Yeah I tried to delete this one and keep the post with the pictures, but it didn't work. Lol
 

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I put these on mine about 10 years ago and never had a problem. 1.75 mm push on retainers. Mine were slipping off when I first put them on and these did the trick. They're similar to the clips that they use to hold brake drums to the studs. The ones that are a PITA when you change the first set of shoes.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Now that's a clever idea. Definitely easier than breaking out the welder.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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I ordered a 100 pack of 14mm press nuts from McMaster. I should have the new bushings later this week so I'll let you know how it works.
 
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