I tried the twine thing, but I ran out, so I think I will buy new bolts...I do have some old underware, and if I can cut it into srtips, I can tie it up with that....'or maybe I will spring for a tap....gotta see how the money holes out.....
to make the bolts go in easyer, 2 of them can be a pian in the rear.. get the bolts5 mm longer than you need( you can allways ad a few washers to make it fit better.. why 5 mm longer, this way you can taper the last 5mm into a cone, this way they will drive into the holes eayer.. esp. the top or bottom 2 forgot witch one's but 2 of them are very hard to spin into the holes. so taper the buggers.. also use anti-seize on any bolt that you use.
PO is an acronym for "previous owner"- noun- one who had legal title to your vehicle prior to you; this is generally the same guy who actually (or at least is the guy the current owner can blame) installed the wrong parts, made quick but ineffective fixes, neglected routine maintenance, put in the 8-track player, etc.
60's.. not really, if you thread them in by hand, you will not cross thread them.. agian 2 of the bolts are just plan hard to get in..i think they are the bottom ones.. they are at a weird angle( at least on my car) top one's go in easy, but the bottom ones, that why i taper them, just to het the little noses in the hole.
I think I see why the sway bar was dis attached, on mine, seems to me that to do a oil change and get the filter out, that you have to drop it...1992 spider....BTW, wht oil do all of you use? I just put 10 40, but pewrhaps that is not right....
not sure about dropping the sway bar for a filter change on the S4 - I think not
I watched a mechanic change the filter on my S4 and he just puts a crowbar up there somewhere and levers against something to get a few mm space then the oil filter fits through the gap and you can screw it on! Took him 10 seconds....ok the car was on a lift
Gubi's method is correct, but the crowbar was the quickest method i ever saw!