[Madmen860]

I had to acquire a new exterior door handle for my '70 GT1300. It has the same handle as an early GT or GTV. Now I would like to swap out the locks with the original handle so I can keep the same key for both doors. Anybody attempt this before and would like to offer assistance?
Michael

 

[cliffordh]

I don't know what assistance I can offer from this distance, but the lock barrels slide out quite easily once you remove the clip. Make sure you do it WITH THE KEY INSERTED. Otherwise you can have tumbler plates, or lock elements, or whatever they're called, and the two little springs going flying.

 

[bellagt]

I recently did it with my GTV. I don't recall the step by step, but it's not a straight forward parts swap so be sure to save all the parts from the old handle before tossing it.

The reason the swap isn't a straight "replace the old core with the new" is that in order to keep costs down on the newer handles, they made the core, and the internal part that attaches to it with a roll pin, interchangeable for both the drivers side and passenger side, whereas on the original handles (at least on my '73), the core and the internal parts were "left handed" for one side and "right handed" for the other.

So in order for the old cores to work in the new handles in the same fashion as the original handle, I had to scavange the part that attaches to the old core from the old handle, so the core would turn the same way. It won't with the "wrong handed" newer part. It took a little figuring out, but if you're mechanically inclined, you'll figure it out once you get it apart.

Also, for whatever reason, the new handles did not seat in the door panel opening in the same way. Don't get me wrong, it fit, but it wasn't an exact fit like the old ones. and I had some small gaps between the door skin and the flange on the handle. So even if it wasn't original to the car, I added the rubber gasket, that you can buy from IAP or Centerline, that fits between the door skin and the handle. That took some fiddling too, and there's a thread on the BB about that where I posted some pictures of what I did... and in those pictures, you should be able to see the part I was referring to earlier that's attahced to the end of the cylinder. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1965-1974/170924-gtv-outer-door-handles.html

 

[iachella]

I've been searching the forum for some pictures of how to remove the lock sets and cannot find any. I need to do the same as my new handles have the ugly small keys and I want my old keys. I have taken pictures of my new door handles. Can anyone point to what I must do on this to remove the lock sets, please?

Thanks,
Stefano

 

[Gubi]

It's been a while, but I think you take the small spring off, put the key in the lock, and then punch out the pin at the rear of the cylinder housing. When you do that the piece with the tab (that the small spring is currently attached to) will come off the back and I think the cylinder comes out the front.

 

[iachella]

What pin are you referring to? I don't follow you.

 

[Gubi]

You see that little hole in the center of the photo, to the rear of the lock cylinder? There should be a pin in there holding the cylinder to that tab piece behind it.

Again, this is from my memory, which isn't great. Usually I just fart around with the lock on the bench for a while until I remember how to disassemble it.

If you take it to a locksmith he can probably swap cylinders in like 30 seconds.

 

[iachella]

This hole?

 

[Gubi]

Yes. If you rotate the key in the lock, at some point you should see a pin in there. Take the spring above the hole in the photo off first.

 

[iachella]

OK, I get it now. I'll play around with it tonight. The locksmith wanted $100 to "attempt" to rekey it claiming he didn't have any spare pins.
I decided that swapping my cylinders was probably easier and knew they just slide out somehow.

Thanks,

 

[Gubi]

I taught myself how to do it, so it can't be that hard.

Just keep the key in the cylinder after you remove it, or the leaves and springs will go flying.

 

[AlfistiSA]

An old trick is to do the whole job inside a large clear plastic bag, that way if the contents of the barrel go nuclear on you, they are all contained.

Ciao
Greig

 

[divotandtralee]

I taught myself how to do it, so it can't be that hard.

Just keep the key in the cylinder after you remove it, or the leaves and springs will go flying.

unless you don't have an index finger and a thumb on the same hand.

 

[iachella]

OK, the pin is out, the rear tab is off, the key is in the barrel. It doesn't seem to be sliding out. Does the other spring that goes around the barrel need to come off? Do I just need to pull hard? I don't want to be too aggressive unless I know it's OK.

 

[iachella]

Pictures for posterity. It should help someone else someday.

 

[Gubi]

Yeah, that should come off. That's attached to the barrel and is what makes it spring back when you turn it.

 

[iachella]

And there we go. Thanks!

Next up, taking the old one off the door. Maybe next weekend. Will post updates.

Thanks again,

 

[Gubi]

No prob. Like I said, it’s pretty easy once you see how everything goes together. All the locks on the 101/105/115 cars are very similar.

 

[iachella]

Success in swapping the locks on the old handle to the new handle. Now before I put them back in the car, I'd like to turn you attention to the lever that opens the door. The old one has the bolt screwed in from below and the new one has it above. Do you think this was just the guy assembling them and I should just reposition it? Another way to pose the question is should the head of the bolt be in contact with the door latch, or should it be the end of the bolt shaft that pushes on it?

 

[bellagt]

the broader surface (bolt head) should be your contact point for the latch adjustment.