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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning, I need to check to confirm what is on the car now, but assuming the '66 has her original front suspension what is involved with swapping on the front suspension from a S2 Spider? Will the '66 GT bits bolt right up to the donor S2 Spider body so I can still roll her around?

Thanks in advance for the coaching.
 

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Remove everything including all suspension arms, and bolt it on. Later uprights take slightly different length upper arms, so use the ones from the S2 Spider.
The perches for the rubber upward suspension movement stops are different on the chassis, but it's not a big deal.

Andrew
 

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late suspension

I suspect the lower A arm shaft on the 66 GT is a 2 bolt. S2 are 4 bolt.
From spindle/ lower ball joint on up will swap directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi, thanks for the reply. If I "only" swap the lower part does that give me the geometry improvement I am looking for?

Sorry, newbie here still regarding GTV/Sprint suspension.

Thanks!
 

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Oh right, thanks. The spindle/dog bone that bolts to the chassis is different between four-bolt and two-bolt, but the A-arms and upwards are the same. So yes, if you have a dog bone that bolts to the chassis with two bolts, you'll have to swap out the four-bolt one from the Spider.

I did this swap on a Giulia TI, took the opportunity to change the lower A arm bushings, and reused the two-bolt dog bone. A-arms are the same and will fit on either dog bone.

Andrew
 

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Geometry

Hi, thanks for the reply. If I "only" swap the lower part does that give me the geometry improvement I am looking for?

Sorry, newbie here still regarding GTV/Sprint suspension.
No, it wont most likely. Because of suspension pickup points on these chassis do "collapse" to some degree over the years, the only way to have the capacity to get correct camber is to use the commonly available adjustable upper arm that is available through most Alfa parts suppliers.

However, swapping to the later components will only add weight. With your early spindles you can use the Aluminum Brembo brakes from a GTV6/Milano. These are about 1/3 the weight of the newer Ate on the later cars.
As well if its suspension geometry improvements you are after read the "How-to section of: Scuderiagiallo.com .
 

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Tdskip, you'll recognize this thread:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1963-1977/359177-parts-interchange-between-66-later-cars.html

And check this one, post #10 on:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/sedan-1962-1977/167437-super-uprights.html

The taller spindles will give you the GTA-like steering geometry you're asking about. (Yes, use the adjustable upper arms.)

Confirm which spindles you have -there are 4 possibilities - before you start buying calipers: not all calipers mount on all spindles.

There's a mess o' threads on this BB on this subject, so don't forget to search.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi guys - - about to dive into this and it is my first time digging into an Alfa front suspension.

The red arrow is the dog bone where the early cars, such as my '66 Stepnose, has two bolts whereas my later Alfa Spider donor has four. The dog bone on the Stepnose needs to stay where it is, correct?

Do I reuse the existing wishbone arm with the purple arrow or do I bring that over as part of the Spider donor assembly?

Are the springs from the Stepnose that are on there the right ones to use still (blue arrow)

Do the links with the yellow arrow come over from the Spider or do I reuse the ones on the Stepnose?

The green arrow is pointing at the spindle that I want to move over (Spider is 3.5 vs 3.0 caliper spacing on the Stepnose currently meaning the calipers from the Spider come over with it), right?

Should I just plan on taking everything apart or is there a shortcut to "just" replacing the spindle with the later one? Any tips on handling the spring? [Edit - realized I need a special compressor]



Thanks!
 

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I'm among the many who've done this conversion, in my case, on my Dunlop-equipped '65 GT.

The "dog bone" is reused necessarily. I used the tall spindle from a 2L Spider and the matching 2L "large" ATE calipers but everything else was kept as original (nothing was damaged or worn), including the springs, though obviously now's the time to swap in different springs if you're so inclined.

I installed all new bearings and bushings along with a new castor arm and adjustable upper arm. New bushings on the sway bar, too.

I had new hard brake lines made, just for good measure, and, of course, replaced the flex brake lines.

Search for info on using threaded rods to compress your springs: it's been done for ages and if you use good hardware and are careful and methodical, it's predictable and safe (but don't take the destructive power of a coil spring for granted).

If everything is in good shape on your car, you can swap the spindle with the dog bone, upper and lower arms and castor rod still attached to the body: just remove the spring and unbolt the spindle with hub and caliper and swap. Just don't mess up your ball joints.

Chuck

To answer your questions directly: RED, yes, must be reused; PURPLE, use either, but I'd stick with the original; BLUE, yes, you can reuse or swap for 2L or aftermarket (verify lengths suite your wants); YELLOW, replace with new adjustable upper arm; GREEN, yes, swap over all the 2L bits here: spindle, hub, calipers.
 

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