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Discussion Starter #1
After coming to terms with myself I accepted the fact that I'll probably not ever get around to completing a full restoration. :eek: So my '72 Super restoration project is in the process of being sold. :cool:
Instead I've taken a short cut and bought a SupeTI track day car instead.

Spring is here and there are at least 4-5 months of different events to take part in, including a couple of track days.

More info to follow, including specs & plans - just a couple of pics from previous home and on the maiden voyage to my garage - now the fun begins :D
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Things to fix

On the drive home from previous owner I had the GPS up to check out if speedo was indicating the right speed - not so!!
At 3.000 rpm it was going 90 km/h on the GPS but showing around 115 km/h on the speedo.

So what to do? It's running a 2,0 liter engine with a stock gearbox and rear end from a 1600 - hmmm.
Any suggestions or ideas?? Apparently the instruments may be from another year than the '72 my car is from.

Assuming the rev counter is fairly OK and it's running at 90 km/h is there any way of working out the rear dif ratio??

Any help and input is appreciated.

Apart from that the car seriously needs to have the front wheels aligned - steering is way too heavy, and almost impossible to take her around corners.
 

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Nice car. Congratulations on making a good choice. There are several causes for the mismatch on your speedometer. The problem could be 1. tire diameter, 2. mismatch betwee speedo gear in the transmission and the rear end ratio, or 3, less likely a big speedo error. With an old car, especially wone modified for performance, the problem could be one or all of these things.

A quick and dirty solution is to get some white paint (typists' "white out" is better) and just mark your speedometer to correspond with the GPS speed. Alfa speeros are never very accurate anyway. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another run

Took her for another run this afternoon after work.

A couple of things puzzle me - when sitting at idle the oil pressure is right up there, but when given her revs, the oil-pressure drops. Hmmm.

Reversed wires? Or normal!?

The car also has adjustable suspension front and back, a system invented by a Swedish tuner. On my list of things to do is to is to lower the height at the front an inch or two and also at the back. Right now she is a monster to turn, even at speed, and I am setting aside time to have the steering alignement adjusted, including the adjustable caster.
In the engine bay I am having a radiator recored and I'll fit that this week-end. Am considering an electric fa, but have just one question - the plastic 'cowl' that surrounds the existing fan - should I keep this in place. I'll go for the pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator.

And then the amateur oil-catch bottle will be replaced with one that is in aluminium and is mounted either just in front of the Webers or alternatively, in place of the battery. The battery I am considering to move to the boot to get a more clean under bonnet look.

And just a few more shots of the car.

Oh, and on another list of things to do - sell the wheels and bye a set of TZ replicas - 15x5.5"
 

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I can't see any reason to keep the radiator cowl in place if you install an electric fan in front of the radiator. I guess the cowl is there to protect your hands and perhaps to stop the fan from spewing boiling water around if someone takes the radiator cap off when the car is boiling.
 

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Nice Super! What's the yellow thing near the coil? Also you have the mesh on inner light rings, are you using any tubing to direct the air to the intake or are they just open to the engine bay?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The yellow oil bottle is a primitive oil catch tank :mad:
To be replaced with an aluminium one.
The plastic cowl - good to hear. I gues that when I have the electric fan fitted I'll remove it. Looks cleaner too.
When fitting the electric fan it seems as if the strips are shoved through the radiator fins - isn't this at a risk og putting a hole in them??:confused:
 

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Ciao Per!

Looks like a nice Lady.
How old is She?
Not match to do on Her compared to the other Giulia.

Per
Helsingborg Sweden
 

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[When fitting the electric fan it seems as if the strips are shoved through the radiator fins - isn't this at a risk og putting a hole in them??:confused
I quite happily removed the fan and fan shroud. You'll be surprised at how much cleaner the underhood stays when you to it.

As for attaching the fan, it's important to use a very lightweight fan. Fortunately, most modern fans are both lightweight and quite thin so mounting the fan on the radiator is less of a problem. One thing you can do is purchace an extra fan mounting kit and use the lugs to provide a couple of additional mounting points. This spreads the load a little better at the mounting points. Nobody says you have to use only 4 mounting points.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thermo switch placement

Got the radiator back - recored and restored:D
I am going to fit an electric fan in front of the radiator and need some advice or confirmation of where to place the thermostat.
First of all - temperatures rarely get above 25 degrees centigrade here i Denmark. I will not be using the car for commuting and therefore it will seldom, if not at all get stuck intraffic situatins where temperatures are high.
In viewing Vespam's thread I understand that placement of thermo close to bottom outlet of radiator is best, either by inserting in actual bottom hose or alternatively, by wedging it in the actual radiator by way of forcing it past he copper cooling slates.
What do you gentlemen say? In hose or in radiator?
In addition to this, I could also opt to only having a manual switch, given that temperatures are never so high here. Butvthere is the risk of forgetting to turn it on - again, the temperature gauge could fail!
And finally, I could have both - a thermo switch and a manual override.

The radiator guys advised strongly against fitting the fan with strips - said that it rins the cooling fins in time due to vibrations - said best to get brackets made up.

In any case, any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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If your car is like my GTV, you'll find there are some rounded cutouts in the lower cross-member seam that serve very nicely to give space for a "proper" fan switch bung to get brazed/soldered into the lower tank, on the right hand side.
/Neil
 

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I quite happily removed the fan and fan shroud. You'll be surprised at how much cleaner the underhood stays when you to it.

As for attaching the fan, it's important to use a very lightweight fan. Fortunately, most modern fans are both lightweight and quite thin so mounting the fan on the radiator is less of a problem. One thing you can do is purchace an extra fan mounting kit and use the lugs to provide a couple of additional mounting points. This spreads the load a little better at the mounting points. Nobody says you have to use only 4 mounting points.
Hi 180OUT,

I am using Kenlowe fans on my street and race Giulias with no problems since 5 years.

The only thing you must take car is the space between the fan and the front cross member.

the problem is not the cross member but the bonnet latch.

everything is fine till you do not close the bonnet.

When the bonnet is closed the bonnet latch can interfere with the fan, locking the propeller, breaking it and so blow the fuse.

You must put 2 spacers of 1 cm between the rad top rubbers and the upper cross member.



Trust me it is a true experience which cost me a fan and bent the latch.

Bruno
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great news from PO

Thanks for the hints - I'll be getting the measurements & clearance right.
As for the thermostat I am considering fitting one of these types of regulators to the bottom hose - thoughts, views, ideas?
ELECTRONIC 45MM FAN CONTROLLER - EFC45
Will get the right diameter of course :rolleyes:

Found out a bit of interesting history on the car. Originally it was sold directly to Sweden on the 14th of MArch 1972, produced on the 13th of MArch. Original body colour is amarenth red with grey interior - thanks to Centro Documentazione Alfa Romeo (FGA) for that info.

So the car is not soooo original after all;) Im fine with that. Especially after finding out a little more about the car.

Apparently it was bought by an Alfa tuning specialist in Sweden - CC Motors who prepared the car for track days/racing. The engine, gearbox, diff and suspension have all be optimized with lots and lots of great parts:

  • High compression pistons 10.4:1 and the head has been shaved a full 1.2mm
  • Conrods/connecting rods have been blueprinted/balanced
  • Inlet valves are 46mm from BMW
  • Exhaust valves are 38mm stainless steel
  • Camshafts are Colombo & Batiana CB48 racing AR.CT1 300 degree
  • It should have about 170-180HP-DIN
  • Rear axle is 2000GTV with LSD with a 1600GTJ 4.56:1
  • Front suspension has new bushings, adjustable camber, and hub, ventilated discs and 2-pot caliber from a Montreal.
  • The Gearbox is a special built unit from Finland - close ratio (FIA - specs) as GTA :
  • 1. 2.54
  • 2. 1.70
  • 3. 1.26
  • 4. 1.00
  • 5. 0.86
  • And last but not least, adjustable suspension, custom built, front and rear.
No wonder it goes like a rocket :cool:
 

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As for the thermostat I am considering fitting one of these types of regulators to the bottom hose - thoughts, views, ideas?
ELECTRONIC 45MM FAN CONTROLLER - EFC45
Hi

I use a thermostat from an alfetta.

When recoring the rad, I asked the guy to weld a thread on the bottom of the rad just above the draining screw.

It works just fine.

You only have to alter sligthly the vertical lip of the cross member

bruno
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SuperGuilia - thx for the advice. But the radiator was already sent for recon so I fitted it today without cowl but with fan. I'll certainly move it back 1 cm or so when I get the electric fan.

Fitted a new middle section of the exhaust - the existing one was leaking and making the car even louder than it is without the rear silencer.

A few hours of work celebrated with a test drive around the countryside. Keeps the fluid in and the exhaust is better - but still great an throaty ;-)

Quick images to show the new stuff in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oil dripping from ... where ?

The other day I saw that there was some fresh oil on the top of the sump, just underneath the rear end of the alternator. Hmmmm.

I hoped that this came from PO that may have spilled som oil when changing filter given that the oil was fresh and clear.

So cleaned it up and waited to see if there was any more after the recent celebration test drive - and there was. Schucks :mad:

Lowering my arm down in front of the exhaust (hot) manifolds I managed to take a couple of snapshots - not best quality, but bear over with me.

In one of the shots there is a drop of oil coming from the filter - but at the same time it seems as if the is a slight trace of an oil leak from between the upper sump and the bottom of the block.

Any ideas or thoughts on this??

If it is from the latter, is it possible to replace the gasket without having the engine out.

Any help, experience and insight be greatly appreciated.
 

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Per

Nice acquisition--I had a white one bought new in 1969--set up for track--even with a roll bar--needed it for drivers training.

Fans:

SPAL Automotive USA

Spal are Italian made and I have two on each of my cars. "Pullers" mounted high at the back of the rad. This is in a "dead" air space so it leaves more area for naturally-flowing air.

Fans (the 5.2-inch paddle blades) weigh only one pound each.

Don't listen to the rad shop--usually they want to place the sender in the top tank. The only time one wants the fans on is when they are needed and that's in stop and go traffic when the bottom of the rad gets to, say, 185 F.

On my Spider both are on the sender, with an over ride switch on both.

Sprint has one on the sender with the other on a manual switch.

Yet to be tested at 100 F.

We don't get that hot on the coast.

:cool::cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bob,

Sounds like a plan, there's a supplier here in Denmark too - can I get you to post a couple of pictures of the fans in place?

And why are you using two and not just a single, but larger unit??:confused:

Rgds

P
 

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I had two generic flat-bladed pusher fans (nine-inch) on my Spider. Driving at 50 mph on a hot day the blades impeded air flow such that the fans came on, which was redundant.:eek:

Then realized that the flat fans were designed to fit between the rad and the boss from the mechanical fan. Narrow motor meant wider and that it showed a swept area large relative to the area of the fan blade.

The two together weighed 10 pounds--and were skewered to the rad core.

Then "discovered" the 5.2-inch Spal paddle-pullers which can be fitted to the top of the core. This is in "dead" air space aft of nose panels or frame in both cars. This leaves a greater area for air flow from motion.

Also the paddle fan has a deeper motor such that its area (dead air itself) is less relative to the swept area of the blades. It is interesting that factory specs note that pullers move more air than pushers.

Most of the time, the top part of the rad will be hotter than the rest of the rad, therefore the heat transfer will be greater. That it is in a dead air space assists this.

The reason for not putting the sender in the top tank is that the fans would come on each time the thermostat valve would open. The 5.2-inch fan is rated at 342 cfm ( pusher at 307). They should only come on when needed and the manual switch allows one to turn them on going into slow traffic.

Also the Spals are quieter than the other install.

The set up has yet to be tested at 100 F.

:cool::cool:
 
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