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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I'm in the process of replacing my stock struts with Konis, and I'm having trouble removing the stock strut cartridges from the strut housings. I've cut away the folded-over tabs which looked to be holding the cartridge in place, but I'm still unable to pull it out. Do I need to drill a hole in the underside of the housing, and punch it out from below?

On a related note, Do I need to drill those holes anyway, to mount the new cartridges from Koni?

Thanks.

-Fred
 

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Hi,

I'm in the process of replacing my stock struts with Konis, and I'm having trouble removing the stock strut cartridges from the strut housings. I've cut away the folded-over tabs which looked to be holding the cartridge in place, but I'm still unable to pull it out. Do I need to drill a hole in the underside of the housing, and punch it out from below?

On a related note, Do I need to drill those holes anyway, to mount the new cartridges from Koni?

Thanks.

-Fred
You need to Drill a hole first in the bottom of the old strut and drain the hydraulic fluid.
Then you cut the top off. You need to use a hack saw or if you have a air cutter even better.
Cut around the very top and leave about 1/4" of the top of the strut left. Should pull right out with no issues.

Clean around the top and the new strut will slide right in. But the 3 tabs on the strut will have to be slightly shaved to fit. Bolt in on the bottom with provided screw and washers. Place bearing back on with rest of the spring cup, spring and so on. Make sure to lube around inner part of strut wall where bearing sits.
Also do not use white plastic spacers for rears if provided. Newer sets no longer have them, thank god.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You need to Drill a hole first in the bottom of the old strut and drain the hydraulic fluid.
Then you cut the top off. You need to use a hack saw or if you have a air cutter even better.
Cut around the very top and leave about 1/4" of the top of the strut left. Should pull right out with no issues.

Clean around the top and the new strut will slide right in. But the 3 tabs on the strut will have to be slightly shaved to fit. Bolt in on the bottom with provided screw and washers. Place bearing back on with rest of the spring cup, spring and so on. Make sure to lube around inner part of strut wall where bearing sits.
Also do not use white plastic spacers for rears if provided. Newer sets no longer have them, thank god.

Jason
Thanks, Jason. So, from what I'm reading in your post, the stock front struts don't actually have inserts? It's just the damper body that the mounts are welded to?
 

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While I thought the instructions which came with the Koni's were a little vague, I was able to do the job correctly by reading them several times. Spend some time looking closely at them.

Yes, no inserts. Luckily you don't have to do this for the rear.

Be sure to renew the front strut bearings, accordian boots, stops, etc. All of these tend to disintegrate with time.
 

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Thanks, Jason. So, from what I'm reading in your post, the stock front struts don't actually have inserts? It's just the damper body that the mounts are welded to?
The front OEM struts are just that, struts. You have to destroy the strut and use the strut housing to house the KONI insert. Just cut around the top part which is about 3/4". Just above where the strut bearing fit.
Jason
 
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