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Hi gang, as the tear down moves rapidly along I am giving more and more thought to my method of stripping the 1750 GTV back to bare metal.

My current thoughts are that I would like to strip the outer panels back to bare metal with either a stripping wheel or chemically. Because I intend to do this at home, I will cover each stripped panel in a Castrol product called Rustilo DWX 30 this is a mobile dewatering fluid which on evaporation of the solvent deposits a ultra-thin protective film.

This stuff can be sprayed or painted on an has a protection guarranted for 9 months. When you need to removed it you wipe over the panel with Turps. I am usuing this product because I do not have the facilities or the inclination to spray the car in EP straight away after I have stripped it. My car will be painted in two pack Glasurit and this requires that I use two pack glasurit EP to paint it. Given the high toxicity of 2 pack paint I think I will pass on this and let the bodyshop deal with that themselves. The metal will be protected with the DWX30 on it.

My question is basically can I mix my stripping methods on the various parts of the car ie.

1. Body panels - hand strip

2. Door, Hood,trunk and plenum cover dipped

3. Underside of car Sand Blasted

4 Interior of car Sand blasted

5. trunk and engine bay sand blasted

Is this a crazy way to go, should I just stick to one method ? Do I even need to strip the interior and the engine bay or should I simply paper them back and prime ?

I am just not keen on a full sand blast on the car .

Thanks,

phil
 

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Dittos for my Giulietta.
I have media (aluminium oxide) blasted the engine compartment, interior, and trunk; stripped the body panels with chemicals and mechanically; have not started on the underside, yet.

I have sprayed a light coat of sandable primer on each section simply to keep the surface rust at bay.
 

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Sand blasting is only really necessary where you have rust issues or you have no alternative. I'd always start with the gentlest method (such as paint stripper and a gentle sander) because you need to get the grit size/medium and air pressure just right for the material you are blasting. Warping (or worse) could occur if you're too heavy-handed. Much has been written about small particles of rust being pounded into the surface of blasted metal by the blasting medium itself, so as a precaution I always follow up with a proprietory 'rust eater' solution such as Kurust, which turns black on contact with oxidised metal, so you can actually tell where it's working.

I'd also consider looking into new techniques, e.g. soda/dry ice blasting. Good call on the Rustilo, but you'll obviously have to ensure that the surface is 110% uncontaminated when you finally paint. I use a similar product on my brake discs during the long winter months to stop them rusting over, and clean them off with thinners and acetone before the new season starts. Works a treat!

Alex.
 
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