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Hi everyone,

Thanks to those contributors to my thread about how long it takes to strip a GTV. It seems 80 hours for an experienced well resourced person is about enough time so it's time to make a start. A little history seems appropriate. I never really wanted to strip the GTV but the decision was sorted of forced on me. The car was in great condition - it had made it across Australia no less than 3 times and was a joy to drive. Sadly I was rear ended by a young woman who did a runner and while the police were trying to track her down I took the head off and got it reconditioned. Within a matter of days after re-attaching the head the car got front ended by a elderly couple who pulled out in front of me at a t-jnction. Very frustrating given how well the car had been driving with a reconditioned head. So several insurance pay outs latter and after numerous personal trajeties I thought it time to fix the car up to a good standard - not concours but a high standard nonetheless. I reasoned there was little point repairing/painting the back and the front and leaving the rest of the car untouched so I might as well get the whole car done while I'm at it.

So off I go. I've managed to remove the air plenum, Webers (now sent of to Gordon for restoration), fuel filter, radiator and reserve, front bumper, high and low beam head lights, indicators, relays and misc wiring, horns, and I got a mobile mechanic to de-gassed the AC.

I plan to use this threat to seek assistance with various difficulties as I encounter them - thankfully no problems so far.
 

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Don't over strip things down. I bought a Lotus Turbo Esprit because the PO took some of it apart and could not remember how to put it back together. It was cheap, as you can imagine. It's now back together and running driving like a dream, but it took a while to get things figured out.

Bag Everything and take a million and 1 pics. You will not regret it. Store your pics in directories sorted by what the piece is or system.
 

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Great thread! I'm also disassembling my '74 GTV to get ready for paint.
But, I started at the back and am leaving the engine till the end.

The gas filler boot was a bit of a challenge.
So far, I'm really impressed with the design of these cars. Lots of thoughtful touches. I would say the quality is easily as good as the period competitor (BMW 2002).

The gas tank came out very easily after the gooy caulk stuff let go. I jacked up the entire rear of the car from under the tank and after about 15 min the seal let go. Advice on this forum was invaluable (pivot the inner edge of the tank up first and with a little scraping the tank pops right out).

I have no battery mount/tray on the pass side of the trunk so I'll be putting in a small Odyssey PC925 up on the trunk shelf (way up near the rear bulkhead).

My rear nuts for the bumper bolts are loose, and it'll be fun getting them tacked back onto the body work. I'm planning to go bumperless so all the sheet metal back there needs to be perfect (will smooth the spot weld divots with body filler).

Question: I don't want to use metal push-on clips when reinstalling emblems. Does anyone make a grippy but soft (non-scratching) retainer to grab onto those emblem pins?

John
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just cost the pins off an used double-sided tape - has held fast for over 10 years without incident. better than drilling holes in the steel and allowing the water to get in.
 

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Well I guess I am a member of “The Strip Club” too, although my Italian beauty is now nearly naked.
1628349
 

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I've found that bolt cutters come in very handy - no need to struggle with rusted bolts - just cut them straight off
 

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10 days into it and I’m done except for the engine/trans. I’m leaving most of the interior and the wiring harness in the car, but have pulled away (consolidated) the harness away from areas that will be repainted. By far the hardest parts were removing the windshield trim (glue-in type), and the C-Pillar emblems.

This forum has been priceless in terms of knowledge and advice.

John

8504BEE5-B4D3-4D90-925B-0F8697F3CA2D.jpeg 57C9634E-9F1C-4BAC-89D9-CCA5D39DD28E.jpeg 2B14887A-C18C-4DE0-BFBB-50F8E329FA55.jpeg C09B186A-4B5C-4599-9FDC-E410D62875B0.jpeg
 

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You’ve undertaken a full restoration. Your wiring harness is at least 45 years old. Leaving it in the car will compromise your restoration and painting efforts. Then, when you start refitting it, and bending it to fit into nooks and crannies, the age-hardened insulation will start cracking.

A false economy.

Get a new harness, preferably from Lionel Velez.
 

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Wiring harness: it is certainly ideal to replace the harness. It’s all exposed now so not huge work to change it once the car is back from paint.

While the harness wrap is indeed old and slightly deteriorated, overall I think it is in very good condition. I’d say it’s the best condition harness I’ve seen in a 46 year old car. There is very little corrosion on connectors, nothing on the interior is brittle. Maybe the worst part is the subbharness for the headlights and front markers. I think a quick clean up with mineral spirits to remove grime, rewrapping a few areas with new friction tape, and cleaning contacts and spades (elec cleaner and corrosion preventer), will ensure many more years of reliable operation. I might replace the fuse box as I hate trying to clean that type of fuse holder.
 

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10 days into it and I’m done except for the engine/trans. I’m leaving most of the interior and the wiring harness in the car, but have pulled away (consolidated) the harness away from areas that will be repainted. By far the hardest parts were removing the windshield trim (glue-in type), and the C-Pillar emblems.

This forum has been priceless in terms of knowledge and advice.

John

View attachment 1629227 View attachment 1629228 View attachment 1629229 View attachment 1629230
Why are you restoring your car, looks great in these photos?
Pete
 

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Pete,
Why?
(1) Covid-19: nothing else to do at home
(2) rust around the front windshield, (glue-on trim rubbed Thru paint).
(3) spare well dented up
(4) paint is wrong color (slight violet tint, and it’s flaking off in spots (poor prep).
(5) want to delete side markers and holes in engine bay from aftermarket AC.
(6) body has 25 years worth of minor dings and scratches.

9DDFFA5D-2B89-4186-BDF4-DB1F2AA282A2.jpeg
 
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