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Discussion Starter #1
88 Graduate, Red
I managed to previously strip the bleeder screw on the driver side front caliper years ago, and now I need to get it off to bleed and then replace it.
I tried using a locking plyers, and a plumbers pliers, and putting siran wrap around the valve, and then shoving the 9mm wrench on, but that didn't work either. It is a 9mm btw.
I was hoping to not have to resort to using an ez out, but does anyone have any other suggestions besides replacing the whole caliper?

Thank you very much.
Rich
 

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I think 'E-Z Out' is a misnomer. They rarely work and if it breaks in the bleeder then you are worse off - you then have a hardened steel thing stuck in the bleeder.

First apply some penetrating oils. PB Blaster works well for me. A homemade combination of kerosene & ATF fluid is touted as very effective, too. Apply a few drops daily for 2-5 days letting it soak in. Then try turning the bleeder with vice grips. If it moves even tiny bit, stop and re-apply the penetrating oil. Try turning it again. Turn it in both directions then re-apply the penetrating oil. If it does turn keep working it back & forth with frequent applications of more penetrating oil. If it finally come out - stop work & immediately go out to buy a lottery ticket!

If it won't move, consider a 'left-hand' drill bit. Use some cutting oil and a reversable drill motor. The reverse action and the heat of drilling might help break it loose. If it doesn't, drill the bleeder out to the thread's minor diameter then pick it out once the majority of the bleeder is weakened by drilling. See: replacing a broken bleed nipple

If all the above fails, remove the caliper and bring it to a machine shop. They have more tricks that are not usually available to the home mechanic.
 

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Bleeder fix

Take a look at my note at:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-brakes-wheels-tires/254905-bleeding-duel-brake-system-easy-these-tools.html

Heat the base of the threads with a propane torch. Spray with PB Blaster or some other good stuff. NO, NO not WD40. (Remember, the major ingredient in WD40 is advertising...) As the threads cool the spray will soak in.
Repeat a couple of times.

Say a prayer to the rust gods. Use your new tools.. (That's why we work on cars right. So we can justify buying new tools... ) :innocent:
Joe D.
 

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this has worked for me in the past: Take a nail or something that approximates the inside diameter of the bleeder hole. Put this in the hole (make sure it's long enuff to keep hold of) then clamp down on it (the bleeder) with ViseGrips or a small pipe type wrench. The "insert" will stiffen the walls of the bleeder so they are less likely to collapse. Do this of course in conjunction with all the above mentioned soaking and so on. ciao, chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to get the passenger side out with an easy out.
The driver side, no luck. Tried PB blaster and a torch, with a lock wrench. That guy is stuck.

I will try again after letting pB blaster soak in a few days.

????I was wondering, Exactly how long do you let the torch stay on the threads heating it up?

Thanks,
Rich
 

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Still stuck??

Gamebowser I may have, as our elected officials often say, "misspoken". I should have said "heat the area of the caliper behind where the threads end. You don't want to heat the bleeder screw itself, just/mostly the aluminum casting. The idea is the heat (expand) the aluminum. When you spray on the PB as it cools (hopefully) the lubricant will seep into the threads.

I did the same as you have (vise grips,etc.) with no luck. Knowing that I might break the bleeder screw off at the base I decided to buy the listed tools in my other note. ( see #19 above) (I did take a look at rebuilt calipers from "International" . They were $100.00. I'd rather spend the money on tools.) The use of the "impact" driver really makes a big difference doing this kind of job. Note that I cut off the nipple so that I could use a bigger size tool, on the bolt head of the bleeder, from the Extractor set. good luck
Joe D.
 

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I was able to get the passenger side out with an easy out.
The driver side, no luck. Tried PB blaster and a torch, with a lock wrench. That guy is stuck.

I will try again after letting pB blaster soak in a few days.

????I was wondering, Exactly how long do you let the torch stay on the threads heating it up?

Thanks,
Rich
are you aware that you are heating the caliper body... not the broken bleeder ? heat the body very near the base of the bleeder but not the bleeder itself. the object of the game is to make the body expand with the heat . the bleeder itself is a pretty small mass and will get soft before the body gets hot and you risk twisting it off at the taper. at anyrate... if you are using a std propane torch you will be hard pressed to get anything hot enough to damage it so heating it once seriously is the way to go. heating it slowly a lot of times gives everything a chance to heat sink and not give you the effect you want. in the end you might want to throw seals at it when you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Driver side never came out, so I eventually repalced the caliper... which it needed anyways b/c the seals were tearing.
 
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