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Discussion Starter #1
last few weeks my clutch seems to not quite disengage....starting in first or reverse...grinds most of the time ( when I have shifted to gear while engine off , starting w clutch down in gear, no problem)... master cyl and slave are pretty new +-0 a year....not sure what it could be...can springs in clutch plate go weak ?
will take to mechanic tomorrow hopefully....
 

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flush old fluid out, blead system... might be cheap fix, also check the slave for leaks, and look at pedals are the brake and clutch pedal same hight?
 

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Sounds like a cylinder is leaking or bypassing. could happen even if new.
Assuming that it has been working fine prior to this event and nothing new has been changed.
Is the clutch assembly relatively new as well as the cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
flush old fluid out, blead system... might be cheap fix, also check the slave for leaks, and look at pedals are the brake and clutch pedal same hight?
thx.....will check pedals today...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like a cylinder is leaking or bypassing. could happen even if new.
Assuming that it has been working fine prior to this event and nothing new has been changed.
Is the clutch assembly relatively new as well as the cylinders?
no, only cylinders were replaced last year.
 

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Maybe the clutch fork is cracked and bending when pressure is applied. The slave cilinder will have a proper stroke. Had this issue on another Italian car.

Ruud
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe the clutch fork is cracked and bending when pressure is applied. The slave cilinder will have a proper stroke. Had this issue on another Italian car.

Ruud
thanks...will suggest to mechanic...hope to take it in today...if weather permits
 

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It might be possible to remove the clutch fork through the hole in the bell housing to inspect it.

Ruud
 

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OK, reading through this. New master and slave. Worked properly after replacement. No leaks. Reservior is full. System properly bled when items replaced so no air in line. No mechanical play.

My standing pedal spider has an adjustable fork from the pedal to the master. My hanging pedal spider does not. So there aren't really any mechanical adjustments to make.
Also, if you have a rectangular reservoir with two chambers and one fill cap, the rear chamber is clutch. When you remove the cap and look from the top, the brake chamber may be full when the clutch chamber is empty. You have to look at the rear chamber from outside to see how much fluid is in it. The clutch chamber will not fill at all until the brake chamber is full.

I can only think of three things:
Make sure the clutch chamber has fluid in it.
If it does not, perform a full bleed bleed from the slave. (You might want to do this anyway)
Get under the car and check the clutch throw arm for play between the slave and the arm. There should be none.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, reading through this. New master and slave. Worked properly after replacement. No leaks. Reservior is full. System properly bled when items replaced so no air in line. No mechanical play.

My standing pedal spider has an adjustable fork from the pedal to the master. My hanging pedal spider does not. So there aren't really any mechanical adjustments to make.
Also, if you have a rectangular reservoir with two chambers and one fill cap, the rear chamber is clutch. When you remove the cap and look from the top, the brake chamber may be full when the clutch chamber is empty. You have to look at the rear chamber from outside to see how much fluid is in it. The clutch chamber will not fill at all until the brake chamber is full.

I can only think of three things:
Make sure the clutch chamber has fluid in it.
If it does not, perform a full bleed bleed from the slave. (You might want to do this anyway)
Get under the car and check the clutch throw arm for play between the slave and the arm. There should be none.
thanks.....yes, I only took cap off to verify full.....
 

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Richard Jemison
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Clutch issue

Most likely it`s a air in the system issue. If you dont have leaks behind the MC or from the slave. First bleed the system by burping the line connection at the MC. do it with pressure on the petal.
Other ways to improve the efficiency are in my post # At;
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Most likely it`s a air in the system issue. If you dont have leaks behind the MC or from the slave. First bleed the system by burping the line connection at the MC. do it with pressure on the petal.
Other ways to improve the efficiency are in my post # At;
was out of town this weekend , but picked car up Friday from Mechanic....they found no leaks, BUT bled it and said there was some air in the system....

my curious mind wonders how you can get air in if no leak? could it have been an air bubble since a year ago, when the master cylinder got replaced ? that's about 2000 miles ago


But drove the car some last night...seems to be ok now...

thanks for all input!
 

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Hi Bjorn,

Quick question is your clutch pedal the same height as your brake? I recently had the clucthe slave and mc changed and clutch pedal is a bit higher now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Bjorn,

Quick question is your clutch pedal the same height as your brake? I recently had the clucthe slave and mc changed and clutch pedal is a bit higher now.
I looked yesterday as UI drove it....essentially the same, but cluth seems to be maybe 1/8 - 1/4inch closer to me than brake pedal
 

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Richard Jemison
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Petal height

The petal height is either 1- controlled by the length of the push rod and clevis when adjusted too short which leases too much "free movement with no pressure activation as the piston is too far away from the bleed back hole in the MC cylinder. Or it can be stopped by a limiting pad between the pivot rod and the firewall. This allows adjustment of the rod length so that the piston rest right at the bleed back hole or even 50% covering it. This gives you petal "pressure at the top and a shorter petal movement on the petal to reach the "release point".

This gives you a clean/no drag release so the syncros are free to work as designed...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have now replaced master , slave and hose (as were replaced 1 yr ago...) thinking maybe bad new part...
as we could NOT find any leaks...but the mechanic bled it again, worked a few weeks, then same problem , so we replaced those parts....
Still same problem...after bled again...mechanic thinks it could be springs in pressure plate?
sounds right? or any other suggestions...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Report : Seems fixed now...got new clutch assembly....and one part, (not sure what its called)..but about 2 -3 in dia, at center of clutch disc...had two wear marks on it...maybe an 1/8 deep..think that was main cause....runs good now, hopefully continues to...

..
 
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