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Discussion Starter #1
Here I am a day later after contemplating buying another cheap 164 when the one we already own decides to stop while turning left at a busy intersection - complete with over tired screaming 2 year old and my wife on board at 9pm.

I've had very little time to investigate but 2 years ago the car did the exact same thing. Lift off the accelerator and brake to a corner to turn, foot back on the accelerator and the engine just dies. It was the fuel pump, which made me think it was this time. There is spark, and I've since pulled out the pump and it runs fine with 12V directly connected. The fuel lines appear to be in good order so I would think there is adequate fuel pressure at the injectors.

What to check next? Injector connections and the ECU? I heard a horror story the other day that a 164 heater core leaked on the ECU and did the exact same thing... car has power, engine turns over and runs momentarily.

I'll investigate further on the weekend, but any other ideas while I'm under the bonnet?

Cheers,
Benjamin
 

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and I've since pulled out the pump and it runs fine with 12V directly connected. The fuel lines appear to be in good order so I would think there is adequate fuel pressure at the injectors.

I'll investigate further on the weekend, but any other ideas while I'm under the bonnet?

Cheers,
Benjamin
Is engine services F22 15A fuse (bottom row second from left) in fuse box good?

What is actual fuel pressure? I would verify that as you may have a cracked fuel hose or bad pressure regulator. Pump running does not mean you have fuel pressure at fuel rail.

2.5 to 3 Bar normal fuel pressure aka 36-43 psi.

If you have pump back in tank you can try removing fuel pump relay (one without red stripe) next to coil on top radiator support and jumpering pin socket 30 (pink wire) to pin socket 87 (pink-white wire) in relay socket holder and turn on key to see if pump runs and try to start car. If fuse F22 good pin 30 will have power when key turned on.

If pump runs but car will not start you can then test red stripe relay for engoine computer. If with key on you get power to pin socket 86 (red wire) of fuel pump relay socket holder then red stripe relay working, too.

If not diode probably blown in red stripe relay.

You can test red stripe relay by swapping it out with starter realy and see if starter still works if not relay is bad.

As to where actual location of starter relay on a RHD 164 I am not certain but it maybe mirror image of LHD models. If so it would be forward and to left of your left knee in center of dash. Open fuse panel door under steering column and look for about 6 relays in center dash area next to radio area.

Fuel pump relay is a Bosch 0332014113
Red stripe ECU and starter relays are a Bosch 0332014112
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tips Steve, will advise results over the weekend. Fuel pump fuse is all good, first thing I checked on the side the road. Pump appears fine too, but can't confirm pressure. I've got some LED leads I can plug into the injector connections which will show me if they are firing... Fingers crossed it's something simple
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, a long day of troubleshooting and checks and I reckon it was a combination of several problems: idle control valve was gummed up and the connector looked suspicious, throttle position sensor connector also looked suspect as well as the air flow meter connector. Also a pipe on the ICV was a bit loose.

After sorting out all of the above, 164 now runs pretty sweet!

That said, one of the exhaust flex joints has had it and the rear main oil seal is leaking considerable oil. Going to sort out the exhaust next weekend and start collecting parts for the rebuild... just debating whether or not to remove the whole engine and get everything machined and checked, or leave the block in situ and just remove all the components. Any ideas on this?

Cheers,
Benjamin
 

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If rear main seal leaking, you need to remove tranny and flywheel to replace it.
 
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