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I know this might sound silly to some of you, but....what is the difference between the centerline distributor, the lesser expensive 123? o and Andrew what is a Marreliplex ( a later style electronic one or an A/M one)? I guess one might one distributor to have some adjustable curves correct or is A STANDARD electronic one just plain good enough of an upgrade, that will give a guy what he needs to drive it hard once and a while? Again I appreciate every ones help...
Just to be clear, there are several aftermarket options in play:

1 - Install a Pertronix kit in a stock Bosch Dizzy for $119 (Summit). Best bang for your buck if you've got a descent dizzy. Mechanical (stock) advance:
Pertonix Kit x.jpg

2- Buy a Pertronix Distributor for $181 (Summit). Don't know anything about it but is a good price if your stock dizzy is worn:
Pertonix DIst x.jpg


3 - Buy the Centerline Distributor for $269 (Centerline). Not sure is there is a difference between CL and Pertronix. My old ID405 had a pertronix module in it. Assume mechanical advance:
Centerline Dist.jpg

4- Buy a 123 fully Electronic Distributor for $324 USD (Classic Alfa). There is also the Vac version (+$14) and the programmable (+$86). The non programmable units have a bunch of different curves that you can choose. The programmable version is, well programable. Great if you do a lot messing around. Not much point if you are sticking with the stock set up as you originally stated:
123 Dist.jpg

Any of these are better than a 40 year old stock dizzy with points and condensor. There is the Marreliplex option as well but now you've got outboard electronics and still old technology and old equipment. I've got several sitting on a shelf - make good paperweights IMHO...
Marreliplex.jpg
 

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Do a search on the Pertronix distributor before you decide to buy one. A couple of people are happy with it, others could not get the motor to run properly with it.
 

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Short story onb the Pertronix.....

Some vendors sell one with a VW Bettle advance curve, because it also "fits" our Alfas. The car will run poorly with this.
Get on with the specific Alfa curve and all is well.

This is why I chose the RML unit. Curve is designed for street Alfas, stock Bosch is super dependable, and it has points which I like. Drop it in, set the timing and go!
You should do a search on the 123 here and read the long threads about trouble setting up the 123. Fine if you enjoy futzing with it, but like the Weber carbs, not needed on a street car.
 

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... You should do a search on the 123 here and read the long threads about trouble setting up the 123. Fine if you enjoy futzing with it, but like the Weber carbs, not needed on a street car.
That's a new one on me. I don't know of anyone having trouble with the 123. Maybe trouble deciding which curve but to my mind the single most reliable piece you can get for an Alfa motor. And the whole logic behind getting an electronic ignition is to eliminate the futzing you have to do with a points based dizzy...

Get a Pertronix (with the correct curve) or a 123 and you'll never look back...
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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You should do a search on the 123 here and read the long threads about trouble setting up the 123. Fine if you enjoy futzing with it, but like the Weber carbs, not needed on a street car.
The thread you're referring to was one guy who had trouble because the 123 apparently got shipped to him with the shaft pinned in the wrong orientation. I would not call this common.

In my case, it was stupid easy to install. I programmed it with my curve at the computer and dropped it in the car. You rotate the body until the LED under the rotor just lights: that gets it close, and then you start the car to do the final timing at idle by a final rotation tweak.

It was cake and I haven't touched it since. If I want to change the timing again, I just plug a USB cable into it. You can even drive with a computer hooked up in the passenger seat and manually tweak the advance at each RPM range to optimize the curve if you like.

You may not need to futz with new points, but they're a mechanical system: they wear and need adjustment and cleaning. They also limit the amount of current the system can deliver, so you do not get as strong of a spark with points as you do with an electronic ignition system. They work, but there are much better options out there these days.
 

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Seriously if you own an Alfa and consider replacing a set of breaker points to be 'futzing' then you probably own the wrong car. I've always enjoyed working on my Spider as much as driving it. Open the hood of any modern car and what do you see? A big plastic cover with a warning sticker DO NOT FUTZ WITH THIS MOTOR :)
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Hey, if points performed better than electronic ignition I'd futz with them all day. But they're more work and they perform worse: not quite seeing the draw there.
 
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