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When you crank the engine is the rotor turning?

Is the distributor timed correctly & the spark plug wires installed in the correct order? With the #1 piston at TDC on compression the rotor should be aimed at the small nick in the edge of the distributor body. The spark plug wire for #1 must be attached to the terminal where the rotor is aimed, the rest in the correct firing order (1-3-4-2).
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Eric, I have it set up exactly like the pic...
I have a member sending a disty and cap and rotor off a running car, so Ill put that on and see what happens. I have been looking around for any loose wires but nothing so far.

its suppose to warm up a little so Ill get back in the garage this weekend and try again...

rs
 

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Discussion Starter #43
While waiting for the Disty...
Ohms from Coil.. 1.4 and 7.2, seem in range???
I keep looking and testing wires, fuses, have new working Ecu , caps and rotors..
The disty coming has a Cap and rotor and was from a sparking car...Can't wait to try it...

Why so many Spiders with this issue. I have had a few and NEVER had this issue...

Rob
 

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Grab the rotor shaft and see if it moves side to side. A lot of the jetronic dist wear out the upper bushing in the dist. Causeing the rotor to hit the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
No movement JIM... I took the Disty out to check that the two teeth are there and they are...

Wondering if I spin the disty with the Coil connected if I could get spark? if thats a test that would work..

Anyone try this???

Rob
 

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Wondering if I spin the disty with the Coil connected if I could get spark?
The flywheel has to be turning for the sensors to tell the ECU the engine is turning (speed & timing). The ECU is what sends the make spark signal to the coil. The distributor is merely a four-position switch - to send the coil output to the appropriate spark plug.
 

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Richard Jemison
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L-Jet crap

You can simply convert the ignition and fuel injector triggering from the L-jet to a functioning distributor for coil control and injection timing control.

Look at the wires on the coil`s negative side. You will see a fat white wire that comes from the computer.

Disconnect it and fold it over and tape it up. To trigger the coil (and fuel) you can use any self contained distributor that has advance mechanism internally. From a points type to an electronic one that triggers the coil directly.

Once the distributor is installed, and wired as it was to be wired to earlier cars. It should start and run better than the computer as the timing will be less emission biased than originally designed for the computer`s timing..
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Got it, I know Im going in circles here. What should I get from the HT Coil as Voltage??? Wouldnt it be much higher then 12v??? Seeing that the coil is the boost for spark...

I have 12.35 or higher or little lower but I would think it should be much higher to give spark to the rotor and cap.
But my Ohm tests are in spec for the coil...Sensors NEW, Working ecu, coil low, but the coil wire to disty shows 12v also??
I get 12v plus from all spark plug wires if I connect to coil. but still No spark from Cap...New also...2 of them..and rotors.

I try every day, trace wires , test everything and see nothing out of place. Inline pump works as of today, I needed to get something working...lol. Relays kicking in. I do hear a relay click after awhile when cranking from the engine bay? Could that be something to do with spark?
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Rich, This is what I had asked from Vicks but they didn't answer...If I do that , The ECU is not needed? Correct?

Do you have Supplier to call? or P/N


Rob
 

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Are you getting spark (from a spark plug) when you connect a plug wire to the output (secondary side) of the coil? The voltage on the output side is going to be very high approx 100,000 volts. I know you said you were getting spark but just double checking how you were detecting spark.
 

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Looked up ignition coil test specs in my manual. Primary (contacts 15 and 1) ohms should be between 0.6 and 1.0
Secondary (contacts 1and 4) ohms should be 3,000 to 5000
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Spidryell
Not Spark, From the Coil with Ign ON I show just over 12v,HT, When cranking it goes up,down on the meter.
NO SPARK at any Plugs..
Coil I get at or higher Ohms stated above...
My Voltage cranking is over 10.20 to 11v at ECU, Relays and higher if I JUMP BOX it so the ecu is getting the correct V's...I have 3 ECU's nothing with any..
I even tried jumping from the Green/black to the 87 on the relay and get a few more V's and still nothing...

I switched the sensors, they are new, I put one new one old , switched the gray and black connections, switched Coils, Rotors, Caps, was even going to try a new Disty but i think its pointless since it is spinning like it should be.

Giving it another week or so and Ill have to make a decision on keeping or Letting go...Only have a One car garage here and no room in others,and I want to have something by Spring...
I said it before but I just don't understand this No Start issue I'm seeing a lot of. I had many spiders, milano,164 and Never had this issue... I used them almost daily so maybe that's why..
Between the weather and this ,,Very depressing !!!
 

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Another way to troubleshoot is to use a noid light on one of the injectors. If it flashes when cranking then you know you are getting the ignition ECU working. I know that is on the fuel ECU side of things but the ignition ECU feeds the fuel ECU.
Also with all the tests you have been doing be sure to always have the spark plug and main distributor wires connected. Coils don't like having an open circuit on the high voltage side.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Merry Christmas All.....
Reading on about Secondary on the coil I can across a thread that said you need at least 11000 with the Neg probe in the HT and Pos on the Pos terminal of the coil?
Both my coils are WAY below that?
The Original bosch has 3.75 and a newOne From local Autozone had 7.75??? This has to be the issue .. Did I read this correct?

Rob
 

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Rob,
I don't know your skill level with testing with a multimeter so please don't be offended if I take things too basic. To test the ohms on the primary and secondary sides of the coil start with all wires removed from the terminals. To test the primary put the meter on the lowest setting for ohms on your multimeter. Touch the two probes together and note the reading. (for example purposes let's use .3 -- that is the baseline resistance of the leads). Next measure the ohms across the positive negative terminals on the coil (let's say you got .9 for that reading). Thus the true measured primary ohms would be .6 in this example. (.9-.3=.6)
To measure the secondary you likely will need to move your setting on your multimeter to kohms (1,000s of ohms). Measure from the positive terminal to the center output of the coil. You will not need to correct the reading with the baseline resistance of the leads since that should be insignificant. (Again as an example let's assume your meter reads 3.77). Thus in this example your secondary resistance is 3,770 ohms.
What are your two readings?
Coil 1 primary______ Secondary______
Coil 2 primary______ Secondary_____
It is not impossible that you have two bad coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Spark reading from coil

Never offended by HELP..
Here are the reading.... Primary 1.3
Secondary 7.92 with Pics.. BAse Line was 0.00

The Bosch was Lower on the secondary Original coil..
 

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OK, I ahve SPark from Coil to Disty BUT Nothing out of the Disty,...
As written before, by getting spark from the coil, the problem is AFTER the coil. Testing the coil at this stage is a time-waster since it is producing spark.

Please describe exactly how you tested for spark.
 

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The last one I had that had a no spark issue. Someone had put the tach signal wire on the wrong side of the coil. To check. When you spin the engine over does the tach needle bounce?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Tach. Doesnt jump around...
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Papajam. I do not have spark?? I have 12.5v from Ht. But only 7700 ohms from Ht... No spark ever...

What I believed to be spark from the coil was the Voltage reading I got, but reading on it looks like the Ohms are way to low??
I tested spark plugs from the coil wire and no spark...

rob
 
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