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On my '91 Spider, when the car is cold or when I first start out, the clutch feels fine. But as I get going and the engine warms up, the pedal feel changes so that the clutch starts to feel stiff and seems to engage closer to the floor, like I have less pedal travel. The PO replaced the pivot pin, do not know but assume clutch original, 68k miles now on car. Any ideas?
 

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Or a failing hydraulic hose. The rubber hose could be swelling, softening, ballooning, have an internal restriction, etc.

Certainly flushing the hydraulic fluid would be an easy & cheap first step.

Note the slave cylinder can rotate in its mount. Make sure the bleeder screw is 'up' - at 12 o'clock. And don't let the reservoir run dry. It'll be hard to get any air out of the system if that happens.
 

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If it is water saturated fluid and the fluid is dot 3 or 4 brake fluid I'm assuming if like my Nissans, could you flush everything, replace the line and refill with dot 5 silicone fluid, just make sure not to mix with the 3or 4, The dot 5 works well in the brakes and will not damage paint or attract moisture? My clutch seems to be doing the same thing so I may be looking at the same repair Thanks
 

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Squirt some rust penetrant on the threaded fittings at each end of the hose. I like P B Blaster. First undo the end away from the slave cylinder. Then undo the hose from the slave cylinder. Install new hose in reverse order and bleed air out of the system.

It can take quite bit of hydraulic fluid to get it fully bled so buy a quart size container.
 

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Heres an update on my clutch post from a couple of days ago. My clients 87 spider lost the ability to disengage the clutch. I rebuilt both master and slave but still no luck. The shift fork seems to move the proper distance but still cant get her into gear. There is more "slop" on the fork than I am accustomed to ( when the slave is removed ) I even used a longer push rod and the fork goes all the way to the other side of the opening in the bellhouse, still not disengaging. I am going to be dropping the tranny today ( oh boy ) because it has to be something in the bellhousing, a first for me. T the original poster, This car had a very similar nuance with its action, very stiff both hot and cold. I just thought it was that year or that particular car as long as I have known this car it was much stiffer than any of my spiders both past and present. Good luck with your hydrolics.
 

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Depending on how long it has been since the car was driven....There are occations when the clutch disk actually sticks to the pressure plate.
I have had it happen a few times and have read about it happening to others.

The trick to getting it unstuck is a little dangerous depending on the car's location. But starting the car in gear and running up to speed, push in the clutch and hit the brakes hard usually does it. However running over people or bashing them headon or running a stop sign is not real favorable.
 

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Great suggestions, thank you for them. Unfortunately My problem is not going to be so simple. I had to do a 1st gear start and match the speed of the tranny through all gears to get the car to a place where I could work on it(abou comparison to myt 30 miles) Even with the longer push rod that I put in which makes the shift fork go all the way to the edge of the opening in the bellhouse (cant go no mo) the clutch does not disengage enough to allow shifting when stopped. When I start the car in gear (any) it holds pretty much all the way just a little slipping especially on a hill. Given that and by comparison to my 74 I have determined that something is definately wrong inside. I am halfway through removing the 87's trannyand will keep this thread posted as to what I find. So far I found only grease, oil, and skinned knuckles. Cheers!
 

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Update to clutch problems on an 87 spider. After finally getting the tranny out, ( now I remember why I favor the older models ) I found that the throwout bearing had worn a significant groove into the fingers of the pressure plate. It may have even worn a couple of them off completely.We are only talking about 1/64 of an inch or so but enought to completely disable clutch actuation. I am thinking this was due to improper adjustment of the push rod thats located directly in front of the clutch master, the only adjustable item on the system. So be careful when adjusting it for excessive free play or to "cheat" a problematic hydrolic system which was the case for me. Pictures soon I hope. Enjoy!
 
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