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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All -

I've read some previous posts on this topic and just want to confirm where to begin - as you can see by the circles, the boss on the steering shaft is about past the notch in the sleeve heading to the knuckle and steering box.

SO, has the sleeve slipped down or the steering shaft (column) has slipped upward? Either way, where do I look for replacement of part?

THX in advance.
 

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Universal joint?

Are you saying the universal joint on the lower part of the steering column has failed?

Never herd of that one before however any gtv or alfetta sedan would have the same part if its just the universal joint you need (sedan steering column is different I think).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ive checked the uni-joints above and below this joint and all seems OK - there is no reduced rotation nor is there horizontal or longitudinal travel suggesting loose bolts or steering box issues (if it helps I can give the alfa part#s of these?) That said, it would be great to see what a "normal" arrangement is for the interface in the black circle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mines an 85 GTV6. but it does look the same. Ill confirm. Still the question really is how far into the sleeve notch is the boss supposed to be? The pics above show that the boss is at the very top, and would require a 6-7mm (~0.25in) adjustment.
 

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Your not still driving this are you?

I would say the tab belongs at or very near the bottom of the notch.

Second guess would be that in order for this to happen

the steering rack has moved and the joint is coming apart, or

the pinch bolt at the rack has fallen out and the piece has slid further down the splined stub, or

your inner steering shaft has been moved toward the driver, or

the pieces were originally bonded together, the bonding has failed and the parts are just working themselves apart.
 

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I'm assuming your steering is very funky from side to side but is still steerable. If that is the problem, weld it. Not fun, but not too bad, remove it from the spline - though mark it first. Some feel the rubber insert is a safety item in case of accident. I doubt much if it would do any good. Where is it going to go after the rubber breaks? Move down an inch or so? And I assure you that it won't feel any different than it did before it broke. A small side benefit is you'll no longer need the short wire for the horn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
AlfettaP and Biba - Thanks guys for the comments. I need to check this out more deeply it seems and welding perhaps is the way to go... Do I really have to (re)move the engine to get the the steering box?!?
 

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The steering rack can be removed through the hole in the chassis in the wheel well ( after removing the wheel). As I remember, it has to come out thru the passenger's side but that doesn't make sense. Some one help me here.
 

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The steering rack can be removed through the hole in the chassis in the wheel well ( after removing the wheel). As I remember, it has to come out thru the passenger's side but that doesn't make sense.
GTV6 steering rack can come out on the left side (driver's side in the USA). But it ain't easy. I had to undo the motor mounts and lift up the engine. It is still like one of those puzzles where you have to manipulate the parts in the right sequence to extricate it. I've heard it said that Alfa started with the GTV6 steering rack then built the car around it...
 

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If the GTV6's isn't too different than an Alfetta's, isn't it easier to just remove the upper pinch bolt, then remove screws and bolts holding the steering shaft, pull back about two inches, remove the lower pinch bolt after carefully marking the location, then remove the unit and weld? If so, I'd have the wheels pointing straight ahead before starting it.

Yes, of course welding in place is the least amount of work. In any event, don't heat up the area to be welded too much since the rubber, except for the upper welds, is still holding the shafts together.
 

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Yeah don't take the rack out.
Something like.

Mark all the joins where you are going to separate the uni.
Steering column shroud.
Remove the bolt from the adjuster on the column 17mm.
Remove the bolt that supports the column to the fire wall 13mm.
Undo the bolts holding the uni joint onto the steering rack and column 13mm (with a split pin)
and pull.

If you do need to pull the rack its not that hard especially if the cars clean and its not power steering.

Also if ur not 100% sure thats its the uni have a mate help you check all the suspension...ie : ball joints tie rod ends, play in the rack ect ect. You will be able to see whats causing ur problem.
 

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Actually, for checking by yourself, turn the wheel to the right, then see if the center 'pin' is to the right. You might have to go all the way until the wheel stops turning. If the pin is no longer centered, I'd say that welding is what you need. You might want to then turn it all the way to the left to double check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK thanks all - good thing this is a long weekend since Im also doing the vacuum hose replacement too...
 

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Can you comment about the steering feeling ince you welded the part?
Ennio,

I can comment :)

The steering absolutely will feel more direct. If you are cornering over a bumpy surface, you will feel vibration through the wheel. But, it also feels sharper and more precise during aggressive cornering. I prefer this feel.
 
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