2.5 and 3.0 definitely the same. The Twinspark (four cylinder) I don't know. Where is this seller? In the USA. All USA milanos had the same rack. I've had good luck getting Milano racks rebuilt locally.
BTW rack replacement quite the tedious job.
I'd like to offer a little more wisdom on the racks:
All of the USA Milanos have interchangeable steering racks as far as application - they are not the same racks however. There are at least 3 different ZF numbers for the racks in my observation. And, they have different components inside and require different rebuild kits. Some rebuild kits are NLA and others are hard to source (read: very expensive). The main difference when rebuilding is to consider the main shaft size.
More generally, keep in mind that some racks are no longer rebuildable economically. If a main shaft has even slight corrosion in the seal sweep area (torn boot for long period of time can cause this), or is slightly bent (accident, shocks, etc) - it will always leak unless the shaft is straightened, chromed, and sized. A perfect finish is required on the shaft as the main seal is a Teflon type rather than a rubber or Viton double lip - tolerances are tighter than normal. It is also possible to find stripped threads where the banjo fitting attaches the feed and return lines the spool valve; the threads in the spool valve body area are aluminum and can be easily stripped by the steel banjo fitting.
Untested/ used racks are not valuable. The cost on rebuilding these racks seems to range between $350 and $550 if you have a good core. It is worth paying more if your rebuilder has a multi-test leak checking procedure and warranty.
Just some knowledge shared...a previous rebuild required 3 (!) cores.
Just to add to Rob's mention of the shaft sizes...I recently had a Verde steering rack rebuilt which involved a 6 month wait for my rebuilder, Jorgen Automotive in Detroit, to find the proper size / quality seal kit. According to Jorgen there are 2 shaft sizes, .865 and .903, although the exact diameter can vary due to wear. I have the .903 shafts and the kits for those are rare, hence the long wait.
Kits for the .865 shafts are reportedly more available (Jorgen had those in stock at the time), so that might be considered when shopping for a replacement rack.
The input splines at the rack are not the same in the Milano racks as all earlier racks in my observation. Fitting a Milano rack into a GTV6 requires using the Milano column connector piece and cut/weld into the original at minimum - better to install the whole column.
Perhaps Alfetta and GTV6 have the same splines. I do know the column itself changed between early and late GTV6 but unsure about the splines.
Thanks for the replies all, great info here. Unfortunately, the brand new rack was gone by the time I got hold of with the seller in Italy, price was cheap too.
Mine's in decent shape for now, no leaks or anything. Keeping fingers crossed...
Do you mean de-powering the rack as in removing the whole power steering assist but leaving the stock rack in place? How would you rate the level of effort needed and how long of a stint would you say one could drive like this without major fatigue on a Milano?
I've done 24 hr endurance races with rack de-powered Miatas and although the effort isn't very high I do have to say that it gets a bit tiring wrestling the wheel for an hour or two at a time on the track.
I want to add an oil temp gauge to my 82 GTV6. Any location better or easier to drill and tap for the sensor? I am considering tapping the sandwich adapter for the add on oil cooler. The sensor probe is a VDO 1/8 NPT thread.
ok..this going to sound stupid but its a legitimate question
how far can a 87 milano engine be moved into the firewall BEFORE the oilpan collides with the cross member.......yes i am aware of started nub hitting the wall and other ancilary issues, my ONLY concern is pan clearance, i may have...
Okay so perhaps this is not the best first post, but here goes.
Caveat: I have searched and followed others methods to no avail.
I am the proud owner of my third alfa 75, a 1987 2.5 V6, which is in all round pretty good condition. However the only thing it requires to get a roadworthy is to...
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It struggles to start and idle when it’s cold outside. The symptoms can range from an occasionally miss while driving to just running like complete...